Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Got pretty much done with the chambers last night.
didn't measure the final cc number, but I'm hoping I'll end up close to 70cc.
i used that old 4in 5.3 gasket as a general template and to keep tools off of the sealing surface.
I did slip a few times and got the valve seats lightly.
so now i get to reseat the valves and then confirm that i don't need a machine shop.
before i do that, i need to tape up the valve stems, and pass the valves through my bead blasting cabinet for a final cleaning and polishing.
Once seated, I'll do one more cc check, but this time using something like rubbing alcohol, or even get some "water wetter".
I had some issues with bubbles in the fluid, and i heard that alcohol or water wetter helps.
I used antifreeze to color the water, and that worked ok for the most part.
I also used the same set of valves for each chamber, my thoughts were to keep it as constant as possible.
and acknowledging that i needed to really clean up carbon buildup on some of the valves.
Last time i did this, I completed one head. And then got the bright idea to try the bead blaster for the other side.
Bead blaster = bees knees!
I also didn't like how much carbon the valves and heads picked up for the short drive run after i deleted DOD back in Dec.
so i'll be focused on getting those valves a mirror polish in hopes to prevent future build up.
I'm thinking i'll have a machine shop check the surface anyways, maybe even a light milling to ensure everything is perfect before the final install.
right now i just need to get one set of actual valve springs installed so i can compress a lifter in order to confirm pushrod height, and then from there i'm good with the install of the short block into the truck!
my hope is not this weekend, but the following weekend!
didn't measure the final cc number, but I'm hoping I'll end up close to 70cc.
i used that old 4in 5.3 gasket as a general template and to keep tools off of the sealing surface.
I did slip a few times and got the valve seats lightly.
so now i get to reseat the valves and then confirm that i don't need a machine shop.
before i do that, i need to tape up the valve stems, and pass the valves through my bead blasting cabinet for a final cleaning and polishing.
Once seated, I'll do one more cc check, but this time using something like rubbing alcohol, or even get some "water wetter".
I had some issues with bubbles in the fluid, and i heard that alcohol or water wetter helps.
I used antifreeze to color the water, and that worked ok for the most part.
I also used the same set of valves for each chamber, my thoughts were to keep it as constant as possible.
and acknowledging that i needed to really clean up carbon buildup on some of the valves.
Last time i did this, I completed one head. And then got the bright idea to try the bead blaster for the other side.
Bead blaster = bees knees!
I also didn't like how much carbon the valves and heads picked up for the short drive run after i deleted DOD back in Dec.
so i'll be focused on getting those valves a mirror polish in hopes to prevent future build up.
I'm thinking i'll have a machine shop check the surface anyways, maybe even a light milling to ensure everything is perfect before the final install.
right now i just need to get one set of actual valve springs installed so i can compress a lifter in order to confirm pushrod height, and then from there i'm good with the install of the short block into the truck!
my hope is not this weekend, but the following weekend!