Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

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pwtr02ss

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stock heads as far as i know weren't drilled through on the back.
or they have plugs hammered in there.
I'll check before i do the final install, if i can remove the plugs then i'll double em up if it allows me.

those amazon plugs say they will be good for a delivery tomorrow.
so here is hoping. :cool:
My stock heads had the block offs. One of the new heads I bought from Wilkes performance had the hole for the block off, the other wasn't drilled. So I have one weight reduction :cool:
 
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Just Fishing

Just Fishing

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And with the new converter, i used a cheap amazon fluid transfer pump that I purchased last year to suck most of the fluid out.

Afer reading through the reviews mentioning how hot this thing gets, i cracked open the case for a good look.
no fans, just some tiny holes.
so i opened each of those up on the front, and then added a few on the bottom and the top to help flow heat out of the case.
that helped a ton, but i still run it with a fan blowing on it.
It works great that way.

I modified the suction end to add some cheap 6mm air line that i have for some amazon special pneumatic cylinders.
Used heat shrink tubing to seal up the end for the extension.
1624722626898.png

I also took this apart when i first got it, mostly to see how it functioned.
if it looked like a plastic pos then i would have just returned it and got something better.

but inside i found a pump that loosely looked like a transmission pump, or an air tool.
Cast metal outside, and copper veins.
the veins looked like pretty solid copper when compared with some 99.9% copper pipe i have laying around.

I smoothed the ends up while i had it open with a fine file, and gave the little veins some cross hatching to help them seat and seal a little better.

It seemed to have a hard time self priming + you really want to keep that thing lubed up.
especially with the hose extension i installed.

So i found i can prime it pretty easily by disconnecting the inlet hose, and then using my brake fluid suction tool to prime the line.
Attach to the pump and turn it on!

for the battery, i just use a spare lawn tractor battery that i have sitting around.

while it's slow, it does work.


SO last night i yanked the pan, easy to get to while the exhaust is hanging... ;)
And installed a brand new acdelco filter after cleaning up the pan.


The gasket on the 6l80's are reusable, I love that.
I still have a spare laying around, but no reason to replace it since i already did about a year ago.


Next step for today, lower the truck down onto some shorter jack stands.
From there i do some valve clearance checks with my lump of clay

Clay I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FR7TTNA
I picked up a return that had a torn package for about $4 :cool:

When i checked before, i tossed in a good inch thick chunk of clay and gave the engine a good turn with the .030 gasket shim and had no contact.
I don't expect to see any difference, but it's better safe than sorry!


From there, i get to start installing cylinder heads!!
Then i get to double check my pushrod length with the ol dial indicator.
I'm also planning to order these,
COMP Cams Ultra Pro Magnum Rocker Arms 1.8 ratio
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-1677-16

Going for the higher ratio comes from two ideas in my head.
First these heads support something like .650 lift.
And as i Understand it (or if i understand correctly)
The higher ratio also affects duration slightly, that in turn lowers the DCR just a little.
If it makes enough of a difference? :think:

There is also a 1.82 ratio set for the aluminum gold line, but that's an extra $150.
and that's $150 i could use towards an upgrade my hp tuners for logging and wideband.

If anyone has any pointers on how to adjust fueling using hp tuners, i'm all ears!

Otherwise, it looks like a wideband is the best option.
but i need to figure out where to put the extra bung.
The damn cats are so far forward on this thing, and i know i need to get a read before the cats... :confused:






And No not this kind of cat
1624723885865.png

:yaoface2:
 
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Just Fishing

Just Fishing

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Reading through the AFR instructions, they mentioned something about high flow high pressure pumps
stating that they can flood the valve seals due to backing up in the cylinder head.

So that got me thinking about oil return.
Looking over the heads and the block, i see tons of oil return path in the heads, so i don't see it backing up really.

Then i notice the block.
Seems the oil return directly spills into the lifter trays!
the lifter trays don't have much space from the top of the block, and would over flow into the head area in order to return to the pan.

So reading around about it, there was some mention of drilling the lifter trays.

Some drilled at the bottom so it would hold as little as possible, i think it needs to hold some to lube the trays etc.

So my solution, 3.8in hole in the middle of each lifter separation.

This holds fluid up to the level of the lower side of the tray, and will allow any excess to leave the tray a little early.
I also added a little hole between the separations incase there was some imbalance in the oil level.

I planned to get pictures of the trays installed, i think it makes more sense... :D

but here is my little solution.

The oil return in the block is dead center between the two lifters, so i kept the return holes closer to the middle.

1624762274028.png
 
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Just Fishing

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And i got the heads installed!
I fizzled out on the piston to valve clearance check, and ups fkd me today with my copper spray i ordered on ebay.
shows delivered, but my package is nowhere to be found.
And nothing on my security cams...

luckily I had just enough to finish the job.

Valve covers on there just to serve as some dust protection for now.
I still need to order the new rocker arms.


1624762500709.png
 
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Just Fishing

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the driver side head also messed with me a bit.

Looks like a slight gap on the corner.

1624762704523.png

Like it didn't quite seat down on the locating pin.

i did the first pass, then backed them all off.
hammered on it with a deadblow for a bit, then tightened it back down.

I tried to stick the thinnest feeler gauge i have in there, and i can only get it in by a hair.
so i think it's just the overhang.

:confused:
 
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Just Fishing

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I did a better write up of the lifter tray mod.
Sorry for the repeat post. :hahano:



I spent some time yesterday thinking about oil flow and oil return after reading a note in my AFR head instructions.
They mentioned that a high flow pump can cause oil backup in the cylinder heads and could cause oil burning due to flooding of the valve stem seals.

So looking at the return path in the heads, I saw that the LS heads seem to have a real nice oil return path between each cylinder.
1624813836707.png

But those then drain into the lifter trays!

the lifter trays should drain oil out the bottom and overfill
not much room at the top of the lifter trays between the block and the head, but there is a pretty good opening under the head.
(You can see the opening under the cylinder head in the picture below)

I found some information talking about drilling out those lifter trays to allow faster drain back, most seemed to be on the bottom of the trays between the webbing.
To me, it seems like the oil pools there in order to lube the lifters as they move up and down in the tray slot.
so i decided I didn't want to lessen the oil pooling there, but more help that oil return a little faster.

so i decided on this,
1624813862180.png

Just 3/8in holes, the oil return in the block is in-between the two lifters.
So i opted to keep them off center and closer to the separator inside of the tray.
These also point towards the valley, and when installed they are at an angle.
so the location of the hole is just slightly under or real close to the level of the lower side (pointing towards the cylinders).

So in theory, this should help oil bleed out of the trays faster.

I also think it seems like oil should be in the trays, so i also added a small hole slightly below that line that crosses over to the other lifter.
In my head this should work as an oil balance port to ensure both sides keep oiled.
This plan was because it seemed like the trays had a cup in the middle to serve as an oil balance before the oil could overflow...

I had planned to get pictures of them installed in the block, but i was on a roll and totally forgot. :thumbsup:
 
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Just Fishing

Just Fishing

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I had the felpro exhaust ready to install, they are a fiber type of paper gasket.
Reading around the consensus is that they suck, and the better type is the OEM MLS type gasket.
So i got a set to install.
1624813993481.png

part number - :waytogo:
1624814028998.png

I'm about to spray these with a nice coat of copper sealer. :ehcapt:

And i have a set of ARP exhaust bolts in the ultrasonic cleaner to remove the packing grease that ARP uses...
On the original heads, i had a broken exhaust bolt in the worst possible spot.
I had it repaired when i did the DOD delete over Christmas, I figure this time around i might as well spring for a better set of bolts since it seems to be an issue.

I also have a nice little tub of copper anti-seize, and i plan on coating those bolts with a nice sloppy coat. :jester:
 

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