Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

[pwtr02ss]

Hey @Just Fishing sorry to keep clogging your thread with my questions but I'm getting close to starting on my dads transmission and it looks like you need to reset the shifts after you do the valve body work. Is this something you can do in hp tuners?

From my reading, it looks like it can be done in the scanner so credits wouldn't be needed. I believe it would be called "reseting the adaptive", hopefully thats the correct term.

I'll be installing the components from the zip kit and replacing the laminates on the TECM. Replacing the gaskets needed. This is to hopefully resolve the delayed 2-1 shift when coming to a stop. Thanks again

 

[Just Fishing]

Hey @Just Fishing sorry to keep clogging your thread with my questions but I'm getting close to starting on my dads transmission and it looks like you need to reset the shifts after you do the valve body work. Is this something you can do in hp tuners?

From my reading, it looks like it can be done in the scanner so credits wouldn't be needed. I believe it would be called "reseting the adaptive", hopefully thats the correct term.

I'll be installing the components from the zip kit and replacing the laminates on the TECM. Replacing the gaskets needed. This is to hopefully resolve the delayed 2-1 shift when coming to a stop. Thanks again

Yeah that's right, hp tuners can supposedly do it.
nothing really seems to confirm that it was done after clicking the button, but it does seem like it looses it's preset adapts.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Yeah that's right, hp tuners can supposedly do it.
nothing really seems to confirm that it was done after clicking the button, but it does seem like it looses it's preset adapts.

Via scanner, correct? I'm going to go over to my dads and insure I can figure this out before we tear the trans apart, lol

 

[Just Fishing]

Via scanner, correct? I'm going to go over to my dads and insure I can figure this out before we tear the trans apart, lol

Yes, VCM scanner.
I believe it's this one.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Yes, VCM scanner.
I believe it's this one.
View attachment 355091

You the man. Thanks dude

 

[Just Fishing]

Well getting ready to start at this again.
Hoe has been put back into the garage, it's on jack stands, and the front axle has been removed.

Last night I drained the oil and pulled the filter to allow more drainage.
Old filter allowed to drain and then reinstalled to prevent drippage...
the hope is that the oil will have a few days to drip into the pan and not into my face (as much) later when I pull the pan.

Idea is to pull the pan, remove the cap, and check the thrust bearing and thrust surface.
If it's not terrible, I'm planning to roll a new thrust bearing in place to see how it does.

I might be ordering a new set of mains, but not the "Race" stuff that i have been using.
I'll go for a looser "stock" bearing set with silicone.

Reason for this is my crank shaft surface is not quite polished
It's maybe 800 grit.
the coating on the race bearings has worn off on the thrust side, currently it's soft lead but seems fine...

With the current high flow pump, i should be fine to go to a "stock" bearing, one with silicone that says it will "polish" the crank...

 

[Just Fishing]

Next issue i see with this crank walking bs.

wear on the rear main seal.
I already see some oil coating the side that's not the seal.
Hopefully it's ok, not like i have been driving that long like this.

Rod bushings:
last time i had the pan off, i noticed the crank walked enough that it started getting danger close to the block!
with this, the rod bushings walked also.
a bit of run time with the rods off centered, not to mention the side-to-side movement they saw.

so it has me thinking,
If the engine does come out and apart, the rod bushings may need to be replaced along with the crank.

And then the pistons
what sort of damage could this cause?
hopefully not much since i didn't drive that long in this condition.

Also in the back of my head, I was not very happy with the piston selection I had at the time (rona).
I would have preferred to use forged, but that would have been a special order and even more waiting.

Forged to me = more forgiving should i have the tuning off.
Plus, the pistons i bought, I was not very happy with.
Matched set was matched on 7 out of 8 pistons.
One piston being quite a bit lighter than the rest??!

So should parts need to be replaced, I'm thinking silver lining...
And my theme is to upgrade each time i take it apart...

something i was thinking about in the first place, a stroker crank since i was buying piston anyways...

402 stroker (6.6l)
This would be way overbuilt for my needs, but it gives me the recipe.

CHEVROLET Summit Racing SUM-R58400008 Summit Racing™ Pro LS 6.0L Rotating Assemblies | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Pro LS 6.0L Rotating Assemblies with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Engine Rotating Kits at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I would also get a bit more low-end.
And my AFR heads could make use of the extra flow...

I also might be getting a bit of a raise at work from what i'm being told... good way to celebrate would be more debt!



Using the .030 head gaskets i already have on hand, this would put me @ 9.98 cr (.040 quench)
with the current .027 gasket, i would be @ 10.04 cr (.037 quench)



Now the next question...
Would this be low enough should i want to say add a supercharger down the road?




And this engine would be one that would find itself migrated to other builds should the hoe get in an accident etc.
(As soon as I went with a new engine, it hit that status)

 

[08z71bgm]

Next issue i see with this crank walking bs.

wear on the rear main seal.
I already see some oil coating the side that's not the seal.
Hopefully it's ok, not like i have been driving that long like this.

Rod bushings:
last time i had the pan off, i noticed the crank walked enough that it started getting danger close to the block!
with this, the rod bushings walked also.
a bit of run time with the rods off centered, not to mention the side-to-side movement they saw.

so it has me thinking,
If the engine does come out and apart, the rod bushings may need to be replaced along with the crank.

And then the pistons
what sort of damage could this cause?
hopefully not much since i didn't drive that long in this condition.

Also in the back of my head, I was not very happy with the piston selection I had at the time (rona).
I would have preferred to use forged, but that would have been a special order and even more waiting.

Forged to me = more forgiving should i have the tuning off.
Plus, the pistons i bought, I was not very happy with.
Matched set was matched on 7 out of 8 pistons.
One piston being quite a bit lighter than the rest??!

So should parts need to be replaced, I'm thinking silver lining...
And my theme is to upgrade each time i take it apart...

something i was thinking about in the first place, a stroker crank since i was buying piston anyways...

402 stroker (6.6l)
This would be way overbuilt for my needs, but it gives me the recipe.

CHEVROLET Summit Racing SUM-R58400008 Summit Racing™ Pro LS 6.0L Rotating Assemblies | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - Summit Racing™ Pro LS 6.0L Rotating Assemblies with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Engine Rotating Kits at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

I would also get a bit more low-end.
And my AFR heads could make use of the extra flow...

I also might be getting a bit of a raise at work from what i'm being told... good way to celebrate would be more debt!



Using the .030 head gaskets i already have on hand, this would put me @ 9.98 cr (.040 quench)
with the current .027 gasket, i would be @ 10.04 cr (.037 quench)



Now the next question...
Would this be low enough should i want to say add a supercharger down the road?




And this engine would be one that would find itself migrated to other builds should the hoe get in an accident etc.
(As soon as I went with a new engine, it hit that status)

You most certainly need to stop overthinking and over complicating it. Worrying about quench and polish grit on the crank. Your crank with such low miles shouldn’t be wearing the bearings so fast.

It sounds like this was an extremely sloppy build and expected the world from it.

Was any of the bearing clearances even checked? If so what where they?

I really think you need to find a new machine shop and get that shit apart and throw that crank in the garbage. Get a new machine shop clean the block up and do a line hone with studs. Make sure you have good clearances with proper bearings and a new crank. Just get the oem crank. Ls3 whatever. They are all the same in gen 4. Put stock gen 4 rods in with oem sized bearings and a nice hyperutectic piston. Good quality brand. I believe mahle made the oem ones. You’re not making tons of power so stop with the forged RA.

You are worrying about shit you shouldn’t have been before and you should’ve focused on making sure the RA was correct and not porting and polishing your heads with quenching. I most certainly prolly could’ve saved my ls3 crank but for what? There is so much carnage in there I didn’t want any part of that going in the new engine. The ls is the most simplistic engine and assembly is the same. It’s a shame yours is hurt but it could’ve been avoided.

Pull the engine. Fix it right one last time and call it a day. Stop lollygagging!

 

[Just Fishing]

You most certainly need to stop overthinking and over complicating it. Worrying about quench and polish grit on the crank. Your crank with such low miles shouldn’t be wearing the bearings so fast.

It sounds like this was an extremely sloppy build and expected the world from it.

Was any of the bearing clearances even checked? If so what where they?

I really think you need to find a new machine shop and get that shit apart and throw that crank in the garbage. Get a new machine shop clean the block up and do a line hone with studs. Make sure you have good clearances with proper bearings and a new crank. Just get the oem crank. Ls3 whatever. They are all the same in gen 4. Put stock gen 4 rods in with oem sized bearings and a nice hyperutectic piston. Good quality brand. I believe mahle made the oem ones. You’re not making tons of power so stop with the forged RA.

You are worrying about shit you shouldn’t have been before and you should’ve focused on making sure the RA was correct and not porting and polishing your heads with quenching. I most certainly prolly could’ve saved my ls3 crank but for what? There is so much carnage in there I didn’t want any part of that going in the new engine. The ls is the most simplistic engine and assembly is the same. It’s a shame yours is hurt but it could’ve been avoided.

Pull the engine. Fix it right one last time and call it a day. Stop lollygagging!

Yeah i detailed everything out during my build.
it was perfect, i blue printed the fk out of this.

 

[Just Fishing]

You most certainly need to stop overthinking and over complicating it. Worrying about quench and polish grit on the crank. Your crank with such low miles shouldn’t be wearing the bearings so fast.

It sounds like this was an extremely sloppy build and expected the world from it.

Was any of the bearing clearances even checked? If so what where they?

I really think you need to find a new machine shop and get that shit apart and throw that crank in the garbage. Get a new machine shop clean the block up and do a line hone with studs. Make sure you have good clearances with proper bearings and a new crank. Just get the oem crank. Ls3 whatever. They are all the same in gen 4. Put stock gen 4 rods in with oem sized bearings and a nice hyperutectic piston. Good quality brand. I believe mahle made the oem ones. You’re not making tons of power so stop with the forged RA.

You are worrying about shit you shouldn’t have been before and you should’ve focused on making sure the RA was correct and not porting and polishing your heads with quenching. I most certainly prolly could’ve saved my ls3 crank but for what? There is so much carnage in there I didn’t want any part of that going in the new engine. The ls is the most simplistic engine and assembly is the same. It’s a shame yours is hurt but it could’ve been avoided.

Pull the engine. Fix it right one last time and call it a day. Stop lollygagging!

Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

Welp, i got my converter. Circle D sure does well with the packaging! UPS smashed the fk out of the box. I already took out the t-shirt and the pen before this picture... :) New converter bolts, locktite, and some shims included. nice! I ordered a new input shaft o-ring. Once that arrives...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Ring end gap, (scroll down to where i used the actual tool to center the rings)

Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

and fedex finally decided to grace me with their presence. Mains w00t w00t Trying to get rid of an allergy migraine right now, otherwise i would be outside getting ready to plasti gauge this pig!

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

crank bearing installed, plastigauge results

Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

Ontrac is forgiven. I have rod bearings w00t w00t!

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Orignal endplay confirmed with the dial indicator after seating the thrust bearing.

Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

Hardest part is the centering of the crank. That might be why many say you can't Or it's probably more likely that you need to slap that baby's butt during assembly (dead blow hammer to the back of the crank) in order to seat the thrust bearing forward. And digging around for some more setup...

www.tahoeyukonforum.com

Where i reinstalled a new (2nd one) thrust bearing and triple checked the converter spacing.
I also confirmed crank endplay from the pan side.
I thought originally that i had installed the thrust bearing backwards, but it turned out to not be the case.
the wear was just unexpected and even.

But yeah, i agree.
I got fkd right in the ass.

big pita, i think the issue might be with pressure in the transmission.
chasing my tail, again...
I did reverse flow the trans cooler, caught metal in the paper towel.