OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Yup one of those garbage universal types.
Second time around I ended up getting one specific to a corvette.
Very good quality.
Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread
- Thread starter Just Fishing
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Yup one of those garbage universal types.
Second time around I ended up getting one specific to a corvette.
Very good quality.
iamdub
Full Access Member
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
I miss the hoe.
Snowed here recently.
The driver side wiper on my s10 stripped out.
Before that it stalled for a sec when making a grocery store run.
Yup, i don't trust the ol S10 right now.
Need the hoe back.
Today the plan is to yank the oil pan to see if more damage to the crank.
If it looks ok, ill order some stock sized bearings and get the transmission pressure gauge installed.
If it's bad, then I'll start preparing the engine for removal.
And to be clear, i really want to confirm that the issue has been resolved and caused by the trans cooler lines.
And I'm seriously thinking i need a cooler line aux filter.
Snowed here recently.
The driver side wiper on my s10 stripped out.
Before that it stalled for a sec when making a grocery store run.
Yup, i don't trust the ol S10 right now.
Need the hoe back.
Today the plan is to yank the oil pan to see if more damage to the crank.
If it looks ok, ill order some stock sized bearings and get the transmission pressure gauge installed.
If it's bad, then I'll start preparing the engine for removal.
And to be clear, i really want to confirm that the issue has been resolved and caused by the trans cooler lines.
And I'm seriously thinking i need a cooler line aux filter.
Last edited:
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Thrust bearing has been swapped, and a drive has been performed with the cooler line filter w/ pressure gauge installed.
Also have a line pressure gauge for the transmission installed.
I'll get pictures soon, but i'm not expecting the thrust bearing to survive long due to a damaged crank thrust area.
I was also reading up about thrust bearing failure again, this is while trying to find the expected pressure ranges for a cooler line.
Re-reading through this link
Post by performabuilt
Mentioned that the cross hatching on a thrust surface after polishing must be completely polished out, otherwise it can wipe away the oil film.
My freshly "polished" crank had that crosshatching on the thrust surface.
I'm thinking it contributed to the failure.
and then once the crank surface was damaged, that was all she wrote for the bearing.
And my little drive around, I started getting a "rattle" sound near the end.
Not as bad as before, but there.
I'm thinking it's my tale tale sign of the thrust bearing beginning to fail.
And i noticed some minor oil pressure droppage.
I think my filter might have some bearing material in there.
I was hoping i would get a little more time, and I'm running some high zinc oil.
but we shall see what the filter looks like soon...
And I'm still having issues finding a replacement NEW OEM crank.
I might end up going with a stroker crank if all else fails.
Starting to look like i got fkd by the machine shop more and more.
And of course, i did have a restricted transmission cooler circuit, that being the final nail.
oh well, at least i didn't lose too much money for the crank + pistons (should i go stroked).
as expensive and time consuming as this build has become, i sorta want to go with a stroker kit.
Too bad I already seated a set of rings.
Other option is i wait for a new OEM crank to become available.
Or say fk it and go with a used crank...
I'm also planning to pull the converter and sent it back.
It' been nearly a year, so i hope they warranty the converter still.
The piece of metal i found in the transmission cooler looked like converter.
hard metal that looks like it was involved in some welding of some type.
Wrong color for pump material (dark).
and it's magnetic...
Also have a line pressure gauge for the transmission installed.
I'll get pictures soon, but i'm not expecting the thrust bearing to survive long due to a damaged crank thrust area.
I was also reading up about thrust bearing failure again, this is while trying to find the expected pressure ranges for a cooler line.
Re-reading through this link
Thrust update.....converter not ballooned - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion
Automatic Transmission - Thrust update.....converter not ballooned - The converter did not balloon and the crank pushed forward some how. Anyone now how this could happen. im stumped. Is it possible to have the converter push forward and take out the crank without ballooning? Would a ever so...
ls1tech.com
Post by performabuilt
Mentioned that the cross hatching on a thrust surface after polishing must be completely polished out, otherwise it can wipe away the oil film.
My freshly "polished" crank had that crosshatching on the thrust surface.
I'm thinking it contributed to the failure.
and then once the crank surface was damaged, that was all she wrote for the bearing.
And my little drive around, I started getting a "rattle" sound near the end.
Not as bad as before, but there.
I'm thinking it's my tale tale sign of the thrust bearing beginning to fail.
And i noticed some minor oil pressure droppage.
I think my filter might have some bearing material in there.
I was hoping i would get a little more time, and I'm running some high zinc oil.
but we shall see what the filter looks like soon...
And I'm still having issues finding a replacement NEW OEM crank.
I might end up going with a stroker crank if all else fails.
Starting to look like i got fkd by the machine shop more and more.
And of course, i did have a restricted transmission cooler circuit, that being the final nail.
oh well, at least i didn't lose too much money for the crank + pistons (should i go stroked).
as expensive and time consuming as this build has become, i sorta want to go with a stroker kit.
Too bad I already seated a set of rings.
Other option is i wait for a new OEM crank to become available.
Or say fk it and go with a used crank...
I'm also planning to pull the converter and sent it back.
It' been nearly a year, so i hope they warranty the converter still.
The piece of metal i found in the transmission cooler looked like converter.
hard metal that looks like it was involved in some welding of some type.
Wrong color for pump material (dark).
and it's magnetic...
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Also, i want to clarify, while this is very frustrating.
I'm taking it as a learning experience.
I don't expect that thrust bearing to last due to the crank surface.
This run is more about getting some actual data about a possible cause.
AKA: Pressure readings!
I mean, how often does someone get to learn all about the most frustrating thing with building a LS "Thrust bearing failure"
The wife is onboard with me going with a stroker kit.
She also told me to sell off the parts and buy a new truck.
I'm also thinking about this -8 AN line for the transmission cooler circuit.
I even have a nice double pass cooler on hand that's -8 an...
Originally purchased to be used as an air cooler/drier for the air compressor.
But then my neighbor stepped in with some left over copper pipe from an AC install, super high grade industrial stuff.
I don't need the cooler for that project any longer.
Once i get the time, I'll start shopping for pistons...
Question for engine builders
I would LOVE it if I could reuse my current piston rings.
I should have no problem getting them reinstalled in the same orientation.
but I'm guessing they are probably seated to the piston now, and should be replaced if i replace the pistons?
I blue printed the heck out of this build and duplicated every detail for each cylinder
I even went as far as to fit each ring to each cylinder to keep the gaps as consistent as possible...
No matter what i find in the filter (heck maybe it's fine)
But the crank does need to be replaced due to the thrust surface.
It's hosed.
Oh, and me over thinking things, this is how i roll.
If I didn't Over think things or learn from mistakes (And painstakingly identify and own those mistakes), then I wouldn't have the job I have now.
I'm taking it as a learning experience.
I don't expect that thrust bearing to last due to the crank surface.
This run is more about getting some actual data about a possible cause.
AKA: Pressure readings!
I mean, how often does someone get to learn all about the most frustrating thing with building a LS "Thrust bearing failure"
The wife is onboard with me going with a stroker kit.
She also told me to sell off the parts and buy a new truck.
I'm also thinking about this -8 AN line for the transmission cooler circuit.
I even have a nice double pass cooler on hand that's -8 an...
Originally purchased to be used as an air cooler/drier for the air compressor.
But then my neighbor stepped in with some left over copper pipe from an AC install, super high grade industrial stuff.
I don't need the cooler for that project any longer.
Once i get the time, I'll start shopping for pistons...
Question for engine builders
I would LOVE it if I could reuse my current piston rings.
I should have no problem getting them reinstalled in the same orientation.
but I'm guessing they are probably seated to the piston now, and should be replaced if i replace the pistons?
I blue printed the heck out of this build and duplicated every detail for each cylinder
I even went as far as to fit each ring to each cylinder to keep the gaps as consistent as possible...
No matter what i find in the filter (heck maybe it's fine)
But the crank does need to be replaced due to the thrust surface.
It's hosed.
Oh, and me over thinking things, this is how i roll.
If I didn't Over think things or learn from mistakes (And painstakingly identify and own those mistakes), then I wouldn't have the job I have now.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
and looking at the stroker kit, the one thing i don't like about those pistons.
It looks like i loose a ton of quench area due to the dish.
From this angle, it's not as bad...
I'll do some piston shopping, and see if i can't play around with the compression numbers a little...
Maybe reduce that dish a tad.
It looks like i loose a ton of quench area due to the dish.
From this angle, it's not as bad...
I'll do some piston shopping, and see if i can't play around with the compression numbers a little...
Maybe reduce that dish a tad.
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
@08z71bgm
On your build, you used the same block, didn't you?
Gen 4 Factory new 6.0 block: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19369841
I'm curious how far the stroker kit pistons stuck up or into the bore (before any decking if done).
On your build, you used the same block, didn't you?
Gen 4 Factory new 6.0 block: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-19369841
I'm curious how far the stroker kit pistons stuck up or into the bore (before any decking if done).
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
playing around with my compression calculator, I noticed I missed a few fields when doing my original check using the +8cc pistons.
Looks like if I use the head gasket I have on hand, .030 thickness.
I'll get a static compression of 10.29
Currently I have 10.32
Dynamic doesn't change from the current 9.40
Looks like if I use the head gasket I have on hand, .030 thickness.
I'll get a static compression of 10.29
Currently I have 10.32
Dynamic doesn't change from the current 9.40
OP
OP
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Something i learned about with my 84 vette.
It took a slow ass engine and make it respond very quickly.
Granted, looking back i should have compromised a little and just tried the thicker gasket.
I hate how expensive this is becoming...
But part of that decision was based on some valve seat spec information i found.
After grinding the valves, it was clear the seats needed to be redone...
The contact patch was way out of spec.
Meaning more waiting.
Meh!
