Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

[Just Fishing]

Then onto the Hoist.

Since I decided i didn't want to fight that old beat hydraulic ram, I decided I wanted a new one.
And the new one, I decided to spring for the Pnuematic version at HF.

Harbor Freight Tools – Quality Tools at Discount Prices Since 1977

Harbor Freight buys their top quality tools from the same factories that supply our competitors. We cut out the middleman and pass the savings to you!

www.harborfreight.com

This thing was an absolute delight to use.

Doing this myself, it was like having a third hand.
I could work the handles in the back and lift at the same time.
Fantastic!

 

[Just Fishing]

And of course, the heater.
It's working fantastic in my garage.
It takes a while to get the garage up to temp.
but with it 20 degrees outside, I had no problem getting my garage to a comfortable 73 degrees.

I found it seems to work best if I let it heat the fk out of the top of the garage for a while, and then kick on a fan to spread it out.
After it gets the temp above freezing, it warms up quickly.

 

[Just Fishing]

Well some of what I thought was metal, actually looked "Creamy" to me.
So I'm like ??!?!

Stuck my finger in it, and it hit me.
White Molly lube that i used on the new bearings i installed for the last test!

Phew!
Looking much better.

 

[Just Fishing]

Last night I decided to cut open the last filter.
I noticed some color coming out of the filter when draining upside down in the pan.

Cut it open and confirmed, no metal!

I'm feeling much better about this.

One concern, the blocked/restricted cooler line is supposed to feed "Rear lube"
I was concerned that if i do have a damaged pump, and that i bypassed the coolers.
I could have pushed some of that right into the lube circuit.

Reviewing my ATSG manual, I see that the cooler line circuit feeds right into the valve body.
I didn't do much digging past that, but the hope is the screen in the valve body protected the fragile parts.

There is also the possibility that the metal i found was a leftover of the old converter.
I did hear some sounds that could have been coming from the original converter when this all started with the 5.3.
But I won't know until i'm ready to dig into the transmission.

Either way, I'm feeling pretty confident about the possibility of me doing a rebuild of the transmission.
I'm going to need a few special tools beyond what I already have.
Mainly the massive snap ring tool required for the rear of the transmission.

When this all started, I had issues with the engine breaking of the transmission feeling like it disappeared.
So i'm concerned that i'll have damaged clutches.
If i need to replace a planetary set, then I have to prepare for some $$
Looking at them, it's not cheap.

 

[Just Fishing]

and then moving on to plans with the cooler lines.

I had some need to debur things + I hate working on vehicles with sharp edges.
I prefer to smooth edges wherever possible.

Especially where my hands are likely to end up during assembly or even maintenance down the road.
Usually, i do this with some somewhat fine files that i have.
Often not perfect, but good enough.

Then i watched a YouTube video where they used a debur tool
they used it to cut edges of the inside of tubes, and parts like a cylinder head.

I found this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2XR4P2?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1

I gave it a test on a few parts I have laying around.
And a big one was my new cold case radiator, tons of sharp edges, inside radius and outside flat corners.

The blade that came inserted into the tool worked fine, but i noticed it was not a smooth swivel.
So, i decided to try one of the replacement blades it came with.
Much better of a blade!
looks like the one that came installed in the tool is from a different supplier...

Working with tubing, I usually use a sharp bit and a fine round file to clean up the bur that's left over when using a rolling cutting tool
I'm expecting this to work much better and cleaner.
With AN, less scratches from what will end up as the sealing surface of the tube should be a good thing.

One thing I haven't found yet, a seller with the different types of blades that doesn't include the actual tool.


And then onto the radiator, the bottom mounts that were attached to the original was nasty.
Looked like I needed to replace them, but I decided to toss into the ultrasonic cleaner.

Currently this is loaded with mineral spirits and a half quart of transmission fluid.
I let it sit for a good hour with the heat on and vibrating doing its thing.
Came out clean and white!!

Turns out it's rubber lined plastic.
I assumed it was just a hard plastic mount.

Adding transmission fluid to the cleaner actually helped quite a bit for other things.
Originally, I did that to see if it would help loosen a stuck screw in that old Colt I picked up.

Answer was nope.

But it did help to free up the action quite a bit.
I forgot that I wanted to try Recyling some of the transmission fluid for to test in the cleaner.
but I should have enough left in the converter when I pull it...
I want to try a good 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and some other cleaner like mineral spirits or acetone...

 

[Just Fishing]

And I'm still pending pictures of the transmission pump, I'm still waiting for the pump rotor kit before i do a full assembly.
I'll get some pictures at that point.

I also have plans to clean up that new bellhousing before I put it together.

I had noticed some sharp edges and casting marks that I want to smooth out
Some of it will be a good test for my new deburring tool.

otherwise, it's getting some action from my wee belt sander.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OXJ8R0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I love this thing; I have found so many uses for it.

Originally, I used it to help me remove some sealant for my motorhome re-roof project.
it worked pretty well, but the spinny parts got gummed up pretty badly as it worked its way through the hard sealant.


Beyond that i have found it's useful for many things and using the many different grits available for the belts, I can polish and sharpen things very quickly.
If I were to order it again, I would spring for the 1/2in belt version.

Its main uses is to sharpen my mower blades to a perfect razor sharpness every spring.
I even went as far as to extend the blade surface area, and to balance the blade afterwards.
Very handy little tool.
Like a file, but power!



And if you haven't noticed, I have an addiction to tools.
Especially air powered ones.

Another fine example of my addiction is my rivnut tool.

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Pneumatic-Tool-PRN516-Quick-Change/dp/B01CYD2NS2

the one I have was a used unit I picked up off of Ebay for about $40.

This tool requires some careful thought when using.
Especially when setting smaller sized rivnuts.
It has more than enough power to break the setting mandrels.

And of course, it's an oddball size for the Allen key built into the head.

I was fortunate enough to receive a used unit where the prior owner had already modified the bit to accept common hardware store grade 8 bolts.
I keep several spares on hand, even knowing to use the minimum setting on the built-in regulator that will set the rivnut, it's very easy to give it too much power.

 

[pwtr02ss]

Last night I decided to cut open the last filter.
I noticed some color coming out of the filter when draining upside down in the pan.

Cut it open and confirmed, no metal!

I'm feeling much better about this.

One concern, the blocked/restricted cooler line is supposed to feed "Rear lube"
I was concerned that if i do have a damaged pump, and that i bypassed the coolers.
I could have pushed some of that right into the lube circuit.

Reviewing my ATSG manual, I see that the cooler line circuit feeds right into the valve body.
I didn't do much digging past that, but the hope is the screen in the valve body protected the fragile parts.

There is also the possibility that the metal i found was a leftover of the old converter.
I did hear some sounds that could have been coming from the original converter when this all started with the 5.3.
But I won't know until i'm ready to dig into the transmission.

Either way, I'm feeling pretty confident about the possibility of me doing a rebuild of the transmission.
I'm going to need a few special tools beyond what I already have.
Mainly the massive snap ring tool required for the rear of the transmission.

When this all started, I had issues with the engine breaking of the transmission feeling like it disappeared.
So i'm concerned that i'll have damaged clutches.
If i need to replace a planetary set, then I have to prepare for some $$
Looking at them, it's not cheap.

If you're that close, I'd go ahead and do the pump upgrades and maybe even replace the "valve body"on it. They say the 6 speeds are pretty simple to freshen up. I'm interested in the photos when you do it.

Do you have the manual showing how to rebuild it and what the tolerances and everything are? I have one for the 4L60 and its been super helpful, even have a video on it. I use it every time i build one.

We used one of those belt sanders to grind spot welds down. Works like a champ for that

 

[Just Fishing]

If you're that close, I'd go ahead and do the pump upgrades and maybe even replace the "valve body"on it. They say the 6 speeds are pretty simple to freshen up. I'm interested in the photos when you do it.

Do you have the manual showing how to rebuild it and what the tolerances and everything are? I have one for the 4L60 and its been super helpful, even have a video on it. I use it every time i build one.

We used one of those belt sanders to grind spot welds down. Works like a champ for that

Yeah, when I got this thing, I did the valve body work on it.
parts list is buried somewhere in this thread...
I pulled it for someone else and decided to drop it in here while I had the list handy.

I am for sure going to go through the valve body once more, cleaning and inspection.
I also want to check the pressure switches once more.
I did buy a refresh kit with seals and stuff, and I already have the Sonnax tool for installing them.

When I get there, I'll see if I can't dig up the part lists once more.

For the transmission, I located a few very detailed YouTube videos.
I also have the factory service manual that covers it in some detail, + i have the ATSG manual in both digital form and the book.
Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012GWF8P6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

I'll post some pictures when i dig into this thing.
At a minimum the pump is coming off.
Reviewing videos and the manual, it looks like I should be able to get away with it with the transmission on its side.
but if that drum sitting behind the pump moves forward, then I'm going to have issues with the clutches aligning with the splines...

So, I'm thinking I'll probably want to pull the transmission for good measure....

Shall see what happens in the end.
I would love to have this thing back on the road by April...

 

[pwtr02ss]

Yeah, when I got this thing, I did the valve body work on it.
parts list is buried somewhere in this thread...
I pulled it for someone else and decided to drop it in here while I had the list handy.

I am for sure going to go through the valve body once more, cleaning and inspection.
I also want to check the pressure switches once more.
I did buy a refresh kit with seals and stuff, and I already have the Sonnax tool for installing them.

When I get there, I'll see if I can't dig up the part lists once more.

For the transmission, I located a few very detailed YouTube videos.
I also have the factory service manual that covers it in some detail, + i have the ATSG manual in both digital form and the book.
Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012GWF8P6?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

I'll post some pictures when i dig into this thing.
At a minimum the pump is coming off.
Reviewing videos and the manual, it looks like I should be able to get away with it with the transmission on its side.
but if that drum sitting behind the pump moves forward, then I'm going to have issues with the clutches aligning with the splines...

So, I'm thinking I'll probably want to pull the transmission for good measure....

Shall see what happens in the end.
I would love to have this thing back on the road by April...

You dug all that info up for me lol. Dads trans is doing ok so far. I think he's juts going to buy a new one and have it put in if something happens to it. I told him we could do the valve body stuff and see. He doesn't want to mess with it so it is what it is.

 

[Just Fishing]

as i'm slowly finding time to take things apart.
I finally tore the bandaid off and removed the heads.

Decided I have to do it.
Cam needs to come out so i can inspect the bearings.

I also noticed what appeared to be dirty looking oil, like it was left over from seating something.

Most seemed to come out around where the #1 cylinder spring sits.
So, I popped the spring out to have a look.

No issues found.
No weird wear looking stuff on the spring.
The double springs sit together very tightly.
So, I'm thinking it's from that...

Reading up, the fitment is normal and a good thing.
if they were loose, then the springs would be suspect...


I also have this weird tappy/rattle sound at light throttle and little to no load.
I'm starting to suspect it might be a side effect of the double springs.
Or it's the transmission pump...

Another thought is a bad lifter.
So, I focused on that one cylinder, I found this video talking about disassembly and cleaning of the LS7 lifters.

so far, no issues.
I went through 8 so far.
All had the same amount of black stuff at the bottom of the lifter.
Not much there, but more of a coating.

I assume it's left over from the break-in of the lifters...
So, I'm cleaning and inspecting each one as a part of this.