Just Fishing's 09 Tahoe Build thread

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Just Fishing

Just Fishing

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First casualty found!
2-6 wave plate was broken in 3 pieces
1648073236070.png

I saw this in one of the precisions 6l80 teardowns.
He did say, if he found one there will be more.

Who knows how long it has been like this. :think:
 

pwtr02ss

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First casualty found!
2-6 wave plate was broken in 3 pieces
View attachment 366321

I saw this in one of the precisions 6l80 teardowns.
He did say, if he found one there will be more.

Who knows how long it has been like this. :think:
Now you know for sure you made the right call! Last 60 we tore down had 2 broken frictions in the 3/4 and it still drove...amazing how much can be wrong and they still work, yet one tiny thing, and they quit
 
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Just Fishing

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Now you know for sure you made the right call! Last 60 we tore down had 2 broken frictions in the 3/4 and it still drove...amazing how much can be wrong and they still work, yet one tiny thing, and they quit

Yeah, i was guessing with the over pressure issue in the converter, the trans didn't have long.

I also confirmed the pressure regulator in the pump was pretty much worn out.
but that's a common issue
wear only on the one side of the valve... weird.

and i pulled the sprag apart and did some cleaning.

I watched a youtube vid and they mentioned that the sprag needs to be pressed apart or some nonsense.

I had no issues removing the sprag element from the housing

I can't find a listing for just the sprag anywhere.
OEM has a plastic double cage.

I rinsed it out, cleaned up the surfaces with some oiled up 600 grit like you do on the old 4l60s, cleaned, oiled and popped it back together.

It's so weird that i can't replace just the sprag element.


and i have the rear support fully disassembled.
confirmed no metal found anywhere in it. :beer:
 
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Sonnax 4-5-6 hd kit is on order.
I also ordered a fresh set of steels with that.

Nothing wrong with the ones i have, but it seems like a good idea assuming the apply force has been bending them a bit.
 

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Sonnax 4-5-6 hd kit is on order.
I also ordered a fresh set of steels with that.

Nothing wrong with the ones i have, but it seems like a good idea assuming the apply force has been bending them a bit.
You did raybestos frictions, no?

Any particular reason behind that brand? I'm only asking because Ive used both. I have raybestos in the avalanche but I only did that because the Kolene steels I bought were Raybestos and they recommended the High Energy frictions to pair with them. I actually prefer the borg warner clutches though. Neither is a bad choice by any means, I just noticed the borgs soak fluid and hold fluid better. more fluid, better retention, less heat.

Long story short, is that the friction brand preferred in this particular transmission?
 
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You did raybestos frictions, no?

Any particular reason behind that brand? I'm only asking because Ive used both. I have raybestos in the avalanche but I only did that because the Kolene steels I bought were Raybestos and they recommended the Stage 2 frictions to pair with them. I actually prefer the borg warner clutches though. Neither is a nbad choice by any means, I just noticed the borgs soak fluid and hold fluid better. more fluid, better retention, less heat.

Long story short, is that the friction brand preferred in this particular transmission?

I have used both ray and alto frictions.
Both are good, but for some reason raybestos seems to have more of a following...

Not much available short of oem, and some aftermarket.
This wasn't much more in the end.

So i ran with it.

And i also read that they suggest avoiding the z pack for a truck application.
The thinner clutches and steels don't do well with heat dissipation and heavy vehicles.

In my vette, i used the kolene coated steels.
Packed as many clutches in the 3-4 as possible.
Used all red alto clutches.
Good stuff, but that transmission shifts pretty aggressively.

In the end i got some f1 type of shifts.
Instant reaction to my manual shifts.
Very gratifying.

It's also 100% mechanical.
In order to keep the pressures up at high rpm, low rpm shifts suffer.
For that, i run a very loose tv setting.
Then i shift manually.

Allows me to cruise at low rpm, but in automatic it shifts way to early.

Works fine for that car, all around it's a violent experience with the early z51 suspension... lol
(I could find an old review from 84 explaining the finer aspects of it better than i could)

Much easier with software controlling stuff.

With the tahoe, i want it to drive smooth, but i do like to feel those shifts.
Quickly, and firmly.

Makes all things feel right in the world.
 
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pwtr02ss

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I have used both ray and alto frictions.
Both are good, but for some reason raybestos seems to have more of a following...

Not much available short of oem, and some aftermarket.
This wasn't much more in the end.

So i ran with it.

And i also read that they suggest avoiding the z pack for a truck application.
The thinner clutches and steels don't do well with heat dissipation and heavy vehicles.

In my vette, i used the kolene coated steels.
Packed as many clutches in the 3-4 as possible.
Used all red alto clutches.
Good stuff, but that transmission shifts pretty aggressively.

In the end i got some f1 type of shifts.
Instant resction to my manual shifts.
Very gratifying.

It's also 100% mechanical.
In order to keep the pressures up at high rpm, low rpm shifts suffer.
For that, i run a very loose tv setting.
Then i shift manually.

Allows me to cruise at low rpm, but in automatic it shifts way to early.

Works fine for that car, all around it's a violent experience with the early z51 suspension... lol
(I could find an old review from 84 explaining the finer aspects of it better than i could)

Much easier with software controlling stuff.

With the tahoe, i want it to drive smooth, but i do like to feel those shifts.
Quickly, and firmly.

Makes all things feel right in the world.
Thanks for the explanation. I never heard much good about the alto frictions so I never used them. Nice to hear that you've had good luck.

Borg is the OEM supplier, or at least has been in all the ones we've done. Raybestos are a great product as well. Either or from what I've read, are the best you can get.

I agree on the zpak for the heavier trucks. The steels over heat and warp too quickly. I have one in my camaro though. I try to get the tolerance just under minimum spec in 3/4 stack. Like .05 too tight. Seems to be just right after initial break in.
 
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Just Fishing

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borg iirc makes one of those brands...
I could be wrong... :think:

Mostly there is a difference in different clutches via the friction material they use.
been a long time since i spent the time looking that crap up.


I want mostly stock feel, but a tiny bit better than the stock paper clutches would be even better.

In the end I won't be doing any burn outs with this thing, hell I don't even speed in this thing. :jester:
What I do want is it to last.


And I should have like 90% of what i need to complete the transmission this weekend.
adding the wave plate and the 4-5-6 piston will push this back to next weekend.
So, I'll get done what I can.


Then the engine,
I messaged the seller of my rods to check in with him since the tracking number has 0 activity.
He said I should see activity today.
so far that's a big fat negative.

Lots of fun having engine and transmission parts everywhere... :chair:
 
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and a little something i learned from one of the many youtube videos i watched on the transmission subject.

There is a little part in the 1234 drum, it fits perfectly on the 2-6 piston spring.
I just took a bar across it and was able to compress the spring.

1648162481095.png

This was a slight motivation for me to just replace the whole drum so i could have a left-over part. :jester:


but in the end, I didn't even put enough pressure to risk damaging that part.


In the video, he actually modified that thing by welding on old steels and made a nice center point for his press.
 

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