Just had starter replaced, won't start.... What can go wrong???? FIXED

[Ibustbravo]

Hey, check to see where the battery ground is located. It should be on the engine. And if there's a 2nd ground from the main bat cable, it should go to the chassis. I'd check the grounds on the back of the cyl heads as well.. and any others you come across.

 

[Fless]

Look on the pic. The fuse left on top, if you look from the side in your car...

That one, where the guy point's on.

Tagged as STUD, whatever that means...

Both of the circuits intended to be powered by the two Studs are optional and are related to towing a trailer. The OE wiring is in place (near the studs) but not connected from the factory.

Stud #1 is designated for the AUX 12v to the trailer. If the correct cable in the OE wiring harness is connected to it and the associated fuse is in place, the AUX pin on the 7-blade trailer wiring connector will be powered at all times. A/K/A hotel feed.

Stud #2 and its associated fuse is there to power electric trailer brakes (full time power), and the underhood connection to the OE harness would be needed. A brake controller must be installed, or wiring spliced under the dash, to send voltage to the electric brake pin on the 7-blade trailer wiring connector.

When wired as intended, these two circuits have nothing to do with ignition or the voltage to run the drivetrain. You might be thinking of the MBEC or LBEC fuses that are in the same row.

 

[nonickatall]

Both of the circuits intended to be powered by the two Studs are optional and are related to towing a trailer. The OE wiring is in place (near the studs) but not connected from the factory.

Stud #1 is designated for the AUX 12v to the trailer. If the correct cable in the OE wiring harness is connected to it and the associated fuse is in place, the AUX pin on the 7-blade trailer wiring connector will be powered at all times. A/K/A hotel feed.

Stud #2 and its associated fuse is there to power electric trailer brakes (full time power), and the underhood connection to the OE harness would be needed. A brake controller must be installed, or wiring spliced under the dash, to send voltage to the electric brake pin on the 7-blade trailer wiring connector.

When wired as intended, these two circuits have nothing to do with ignition or the voltage to run the drivetrain. You might be thinking of the MBEC or LBEC fuses that are in the same row.

Hmm, sounds logic, but in my case the fuse, the guy is pointing on, was two time blown.

One time when I swaped my positiv and negative poles on my battery and another time, when I worked on my radio, without any shortcut. That leads into not working gauges and i had a christmas tree of warning lights, like ABS, traction control, battery warning, engine lamp and so on.

Probably the picture I found in the Internet of the fuse box is different to the fuse box of my car, because it was surely not the trailer electric fuse.

Now it's in the middle of the night and it's raining, but tomorrow I will look on my car, what fuse it was, which was blown.

 

[Fless]

Hmm, sounds logic, but in my case the fuse, the guy is pointing on, was two time blown.

One time when I swaped my positiv and negative poles on my battery and another time, when I worked on my radio, without any shortcut. That leads into not working gauges and i had a christmas tree of warning lights, like ABS, traction control, battery warning, engine lamp and so on.

Probably the picture I found in the Internet of the fuse box is different to the fuse box of my car, because it was surely not the trailer electric fuse.

Now it's in the middle of the night and it's raining, but tomorrow I will look on my car, what fuse it was, which was blown.

The "fuse" that he's pointing to is a dummy fuse (the orange one) for Stud #1. If a real J-case fuse was installed there it would feed full-time voltage to the post that is indicated by the other yellow arrow I drew on the pic below. If that wire is the OE one it goes to the trailer wiring connector, the AUX pin. If something else was connected to the post, well, the voltage would go to whatever was wired. I haven't a clue as to how yours is wired, so YMMV.

Again, in an OE wiring situation that wire is not connected to the study, and doesn't feed anything that is related to the drivetrain. Hence the dummy fuse from the factory.

 

[mountie]

Ok...... This thread is nearly over !! I found the GLITCH...... ( But, not clear when the fuse popped, but replacing it solved EVERYTHING !! I may have popped the fuse when jumping the starter with a screwdriver, when I got home after replacing the starter.....
(( At the shop, after replacing starter,.. a "screwdriver-jump" started the truck....Maybe that is when the fuse popped, but the truck was running, and I drove it home........
But at home, the new " IGN A - 40 a" fuse ( blue color) fixed everything, and, also the few idiot lights went away on the dash, so no need to clear codes.
( pic with red circle is blown fuse )

( Good *****'n grief !! )

 

[mountie]

Moral to the story..... Look CLOSELY at EVERY FUSE !!!!!
Then look again......

 

[89Suburban]

yay!!!

 

[mountie]

I appreciate all your time & efforts..... Here's a pic, if anyone wants a new 'desktop' picture....

As a gift ( sorry, no cash )

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thank you for posting your solution to your issue. Our collective knowledge base has been increased.

Please add the word "FIXED" to your thread's title, to let others who are experiencing a similar issue know that this thread has an identified solution.

 

[mountie]

Thank you for posting your solution to your issue. Our collective knowledge base has been increased.

Please add the word "FIXED" to your thread's title, to let others who are experiencing a similar issue know that this thread has an identified solution.

How do I edit my thread title ??