Keeping coolant and transmission temps under control when towing in the summer heat

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thompsoj22

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Wait…so you’re buying a bigger (stronger) alternator, then changing the pulley that comes with it to an overdrive, but not changing the main drive pulley to an overdrive?
Yes, I only want to increase the alternator speed. This is an effective modification even with the DR44 160 amp stock alternator. Only the high rpm builds are under driving at the crankshaft. IMO?
 

thompsoj22

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I have dual batteries with the stock alternator. At idle, I don't have any issues at all.

I'm confused... why would you? If you're looking to spin the alternator faster, then you only need to change the alternator pulley to one with a smaller diameter (overdrive) to make that happen.
You are absolutely correct! The DENSO 6860 is rated to provide 220 amps, The DR-44 is rated to provide 160 amps. Some people like big tires, Others big horsepower or torque, Others big stereo's. Me I like big current! Lots and lots of available current. We live in the high desert and June through August it will likely average 105 to 113 degrees every single f'ing day! I also like to run max front/rear ac and it is common for us to sit in the vehicle at idle for extended periods while running errands around town. Even with my setup i can see a small trace of belt dust on the front of the alternator housing which is an indicator of how much torque is required to spin the alternator with the applied current draw. It works for me!
 

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So for future reference I just measured the cfm of the 700w 7/9 rimmed blade (k5l) fans both sides measured approx 2300 cfm on high, measured inside the engine compartment right up against the fan, can anyone measure the dual 5 blade non rimmed 700w? You just need a anemometer
 

mikeyss

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So for future reference I just measured the cfm of the 700w 7/9 rimmed blade (k5l) fans both sides measured approx 2300 cfm on high, measured inside the engine compartment right up against the fan, can anyone measure the dual 5 blade non rimmed 700w? You just need a anemometer
I wish I had something to measure CFM , because I have the 2011 and up K5L 5 blade rimless 700w fans in my 09 tahoe, and I have the 7/9 rimmed 700w on my 06 Sierra Denali. The fans from the 2011 are much louder and feel like they suck more air in compared to the 06 7/9 setup but they are much quieter.
 

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Wes
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I wish I had something to measure CFM , because I have the 2011 and up K5L 5 blade rimless 700w fans in my 09 tahoe, and I have the 7/9 rimmed 700w on my 06 Sierra Denali. The fans from the 2011 are much louder and feel like they suck more air in compared to the 06 7/9 setup but they are much quieter.
I bought this one off of ebay $40, might not use it much but it can come in handy for other stuff since it also measures temperature
https://www.ebay.com/itm/164554574874
 

Foggy

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So now that we are talking FANS....
I installed the TYC 622210 fans last spring. They are the 7/9 blade listed for "performance cooling".
My fan set up was a 7/7 blade assembly.. Not sure if it was the OEM setup... as I bought used.
Is there any way of knowing what the wattage is on these??? I do have the the HD cooling, towing,
etc options on my XL 6.2 denali.
I can't find specs on the TYC as far as wattage
 
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My fans are loud as hell and feel like it's gonna suck you in when standing in front of the vehicle, but I don't have the K5L, just the standard bladed fans
 

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Wes
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So now that we are talking FANS....
I installed the TYC 622210 fans last spring. They are the 7/9 blade listed for "performance cooling".
My fan set up was a 7/7 blade assembly.. Not sure if it was the OEM setup... as I bought used.
Is there any way of knowing what the wattage is on these??? I do have the the HD cooling, towing,
etc options on my XL 6.2 denali.
I can't find specs on the TYC as far as wattage
you would probably have to contact tyc they must have it in there technical data somewhere
 

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