Keeping coolant and transmission temps under control when towing in the summer heat

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mikeyss

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I believe the triple fan thing comes on the Silverado with the diesel or the 4 cylinder one. I'd like to see it installed, I can't imagine GM made the radiator taller to accommodate them.

Hey, where there's a welder..there's a way to make it work, haha
 

alpha_omega

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I believe the triple fan thing comes on the Silverado with the diesel or the 4 cylinder one. I'd like to see it installed, I can't imagine GM made the radiator taller to accommodate them.

Hey, where there's a welder..there's a way to make it work, haha
No ****? I thought that was just some Frankensteined monster someone had built for their race car or something. I’ll have to do some research.
 

Tallpaulboise2

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I just need a big hill to be satisfied, big difference between 1300ft and 8000ft
Took the Yukon out with the trailer. 91 degrees and the first 10 miles were frontage roads. 60 mph and dash temp gauge reads 210. Hit the freeway, up to 65 and the temp raises to 215. Hit some hills and it raided to about 220. Long grade goy it up to an indicated 230 before it dropped off rapidly after cresting and gliding down a 3 mile stretch.
Trans temp never got above 175. Last 2 miles of trip was 15 mph dirt road with 600’ elevation gain. Engine showed 215 and trans 180 when we got to camp. Moving the cooler down was a great move. I am going to take it in to GMC and have them check the fans. My trailer weighs about 5700lb and I can’t believe it should over heat this easily. In town with or without the trailer engine and trans temps are fine.
 

alpha_omega

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Wow. Im surprised you are getting that high even after moving it down? Are your fins straight and are your cooler and condenser fully cleaned out? Thermostat is working and youve recently done a coolant flush?
 
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Geotrash

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Took the Yukon out with the trailer. 91 degrees and the first 10 miles were frontage roads. 60 mph and dash temp gauge reads 210. Hit the freeway, up to 65 and the temp raises to 215. Hit some hills and it raided to about 220. Long grade goy it up to an indicated 230 before it dropped off rapidly after cresting and gliding down a 3 mile stretch.
Trans temp never got above 175. Last 2 miles of trip was 15 mph dirt road with 600’ elevation gain. Engine showed 215 and trans 180 when we got to camp. Moving the cooler down was a great move. I am going to take it in to GMC and have them check the fans. My trailer weighs about 5700lb and I can’t believe it should over heat this easily. In town with or without the trailer engine and trans temps are fine.
Note that 230 on the coolant is still 35ºF on the good side of the normal range. Dexcool won't boil until 265ºF, so I wouldn't describe 230 as overheating, per se. Based on your earlier comments about your fans potentially not both kicking into high makes me wonder if one of your fan motors is simply getting weak. If I were in your shoes, here are the actions I would take, in order:

1/ Verify whether both fan motors are generating full power output, replacing either or both of them with 700w motors with new blades matched to the motors and fan shroud.
2/ As alpha omega suggests, I would clean the radiator fins and the space between the AC condenser and radiator thoroughly.
3/ Repair or replace the baffles on either end of the radiator
4/ Replace the thermostat to eliminate the chance of a flow restriction from one that's only partially opening. When you do this, replace the coolant with new.
5/ Upgrade the radiator to a double row, like a Cold Case.
 

alpha_omega

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Note that 230 on the coolant is still 35ºF on the good side of the normal range. Dexcool won't boil until 265ºF, so I wouldn't describe 230 as overheating, per se. Based on your earlier comments about your fans potentially not both kicking into high makes me wonder if one of your fan motors is simply getting weak. If I were in your shoes, here are the actions I would take, in order:

1/ Verify whether both fan motors are generating full power output, replacing either or both of them with 700w motors with new blades matched to the motors and fan shroud.
2/ As alpha omega suggests, I would clean the radiator fins and the space between the AC condenser and radiator thoroughly.
3/ Repair or replace the baffles on either end of the radiator
4/ Replace the thermostat to eliminate the chance of a flow restriction from one that's only partially opening. When you do this, replace the coolant with new.
5/ Upgrade the radiator to a double row, like a Cold Case.
Perfect explanation!

Not trying to knock or nit pick, just thinking about down the road when someone reads this, did we ever end up determining whether all of these style Yuks/Hoes can use two 700W? I remember we discussed the blade count, 7/9 combo the rimmed vs. not rimmed and the shroud, but I wasn’t sure if there was an issue with some of the years having spacial issues or needing programmed (Tech2) in order to run properly.

We need someone to weed through and delete all of our jokes and ramblings, our oops, oh ***** and by the ways, then gather all of the knowledge we have learned, shared, collected, bounced off each other in posts like this or even “What did you do today” style posts and put it into an updated DIY repair guide/part number reference.
 

1BADI5

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Well my '10 has had the fans and passenger side harness repaired

Information I have confirmed on my PPV
- Passenger side harness connector replaced
- Fan shroud assembly, Part # 84302502
- Both fan blade assemblies are 5 blade (rimless)

I just need figure out:
1) Do I just keep the current fan blade assemblies and go with the 700w motors - GM Part 20903474?
2) Add RPO coded "KW5" 220amp alternator - GM part 22949466
3) Explore fan speed settings in HP Tuners and possible alter
 

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