Lifter tick, It's AFM/DOD delete time - oil pump replacement too?

[fastscirocco]

2014 GMC Yukon XL Denali 6.2, ~ 145,000 miles now has lifter tick.
I'm looking into delete kits from Texas Speed and https://briantooleyracing.com/ and https://www.texas-speed.com/.
Any other suggested suppliers?

How involved is it to replace the oil pump?
What is the easiest way of having the ECM reprogrammed to work without the AFM/DOD pieces in place.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@fastscirocco I used the Texas speed kit no complaints

 

[swathdiver]

I would not bother with the oil pump if your pressure is good. I would certainly consider doing the o-ring though.

Which camshaft? I have seen Texas Speed give 6.2 guys the old 6.0 camshaft that is smaller than their original one. They should have given their buyers the L9H camshaft but guess they got a good deal on the old LQ4 cams.

Gwatney makes a nice performance camshaft that retains VVT and delivers mild, solid gains across the powerband with zero loss of power down low.

 

[iamdub]

2014 GMC Yukon XL Denali 6.2, ~ 145,000 miles now has lifter tick.
I'm looking into delete kits from Texas Speed and https://briantooleyracing.com/ and https://www.texas-speed.com/.
Any other suggested suppliers?

How involved is it to replace the oil pump?
What is the easiest way of having the ECM reprogrammed to work without the AFM/DOD pieces in place.

If you're in far enough to swap the cam, the oil pump should already be off. At only 145K miles, it's up to you if you wanna replace it when reassembling.

For reprogramming, if you get a non-AFM cam that works well with the stock tune, then the cheapest and easiest would be to have AFM turned off in the otherwise stock tune. For this, you can't beat https://www.lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm. If you get a cam that would be optimized with a custom tune, then just have the tuner turn off AFM. The thing is, you'll need to have this done before you start it up after completing the AFM delete. So, if you decide to go the custom tune route, source a tuner and have them load a base tune (or just turn off AFM) then return after the work to have them optimize it for the new cam. A custom tune will cost hundreds. So, if you're fine with stock power levels, get an appropriate cam and just have AFM turned off for ~$60.

 

[Dustin Jackson]

If you're in far enough to swap the cam, the oil pump should already be off. At only 145K miles, it's up to you if you wanna replace it when reassembling.

For reprogramming, if you get a non-AFM cam that works well with the stock tune, then the cheapest and easiest would be to have AFM turned off in the otherwise stock tune. For this, you can't beat https://www.lt1swap.com/afm_delete.htm. If you get a cam that would be optimized with a custom tune, then just have the tuner turn off AFM. The thing is, you'll need to have this done before you start it up after completing the AFM delete. So, if you decide to go the custom tune route, source a tuner and have them load a base tune (or just turn off AFM) then return after the work to have them optimize it for the new cam. A custom tune will cost hundreds. So, if you're fine with stock power levels, get an appropriate cam and just have AFM turned off for ~$60.

@iamdub Can the oil pump be removed without unbolting the pickup tube? When I got in there the oil pump was very tight in there and I wasn't able to get it off the pickup tube with the pickup tube in place

 

[fastscirocco]

I want to stick with stock performance, just replace the parts with non AFM DOD parts and eliminate the AFM DOD part of the ECU programming. I've seen youtube videos where they loosen/lower just a little to access to a oil pump bolt, and are able to remove the oil pump without removing the oil pan. Has anyone done that? Here is a video for reference:

 

[Dustin Jackson]

@fastscirocco After I undid all the oil pump bolts and the pickup tube bolt that attaches the tube to the oil pump I wasn't able to hardly move the oil pump so I ended up dropping my oil pan and doing all that. Its possible that all I needed to do was rotate the crankshaft a little bit to unbind the oil pump but I didn't want to dick around too much with it.

You can always plan to attempt to do it that way and keep dropping the oil pan as a plan-B

 

[Geotrash]

I want to stick with stock performance, just replace the parts with non AFM DOD parts and eliminate the AFM DOD part of the ECU programming. I've seen youtube videos where they loosen/lower just a little to access to a oil pump bolt, and are able to remove the oil pump without removing the oil pan. Has anyone done that? Here is a video for reference:

I tried going that route but in my opinion it was more of a PITA than just dropping the pan. Here's my HOWTO on the whole process: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...nali-6-2l-cam-swap-thread.121671/post-1616690

 

[Monz11]

I highly recommend texas speed, but I used BT for the upgraded cam bc I put a supercharger on her. Make sure you upgrade the crankshaft, while you're in there. might as well specify what you want in the kit. I upgraded my heads and used BT for the valves, springs,etc. I can give you a POC at BT, and he can work up a quote for you. If you find anything cheaper online, he will match or beat it. Good dude and if you are prior military will hook you up with some swag. Make sure you get the valve seal and valve compressor tools

 

[fastscirocco]

I highly recommend texas speed, but I used BT for the upgraded cam bc I put a supercharger on her. Make sure you upgrade the crankshaft, while you're in there. might as well specify what you want in the kit. I upgraded my heads and used BT for the valves, springs,etc. I can give you a POC at BT, and he can work up a quote for you. If you find anything cheaper online, he will match or beat it. Good dude and if you are prior military will hook you up with some swag. Make sure you get the valve seal and valve compressor tools

I would welcome a point of contact, thanks