Limited slip going out

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Wylie_Tahoe

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it's just at a certain point Is it wise 2 keep throwing money into a car that's almost 20 years old.

FWIW, I had a 2002 trailblazer original owner, had about 285,000 mls. Exterior was straight and good paint and interior looked 15 years newer then the interior of my new to me Tahoe. I would be still driving it and fixing it, but it died a sudden death after an encounter with a concrete hwy divider last year. I am able to diagnose/repair 95% of what needed to be. So fixing was only parts and my time. So my threshold of how much it was eating p/yr v's market, is likely lower then some. To me, those low miles and condition would be worth it as long as I still had a need/use for that type of vehicle.

If it were mine, id have an aftermarket diff on its way. Swap the ring over, new bearing for the pinion and done. A few hours time.
 

tom3

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First question I have is, do you need the positraction to work? If not a big deal, I'd check the pinion and U-joints for looseness, if tight, I'd drive it.
 

Bill Barnes

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Yeah I thought of that I just really don't want to keep pouring money into this thing even though the truck is in really nice shape after replacing the ABS unit, the gas tank ,and the tranny its already added up to more than the trucks actually worth. Dumping another grand or better into it just doesn't make any sense

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Is it costing more than a reasonable replacement would? I would and have fixed my 2005 Yukon XL Southern Comfort conversion. New trans, new TC operator, new MAF, new accelerator control module, all in the last 2 years. A new replacement vehicle would be 72 to 75K. I'll keep repairing mine.
 

rockola1971

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It all boils down to which is cheaper? Fix the rearend/replace or a car payment or cash for another vehicle? Its really a easy decision. Whats that saying about doing something or get off the pot?
 

asand

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With our gov-loc diffs the worst case scenario is the governor coming apart, jamming the ring and pinion and splitting the carrier. If it's malfunctioning at all get that shit out of there and put an open diff or a Yukon Duragrip in there. New diff carrier bearings and swap your ring gear over. I did it in my driveway in 5 hours with hand tools and a $20 dial indicator.
 

JonnyTahoe

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So you wore out the Diff and Trans in less than 120k. Your XL came with two rear Diff options which one is in yours ? I have a Tahoe with a 10 bolt and a 4L60 with 295k. You must be towing very heavy loads to cause this much damage.
 
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