Lower Ball Joints - replace joints or replace arm?

[Atrus]

Background is my 2003 Yukon with 139k miles needs a front suspension refresh. I will be doing upper control arms, pitman arm, inner and outer tie rods, and lower ball joints. Probably will replace sway bar end links too, because why not - I am in there already and it's cheap to do.

Looks like the lower ball joints are roughly $40 ea for Moogs, complete new Moog lower control arms are $180 ea.

Both set of instructions (ball joint only vs entire control arm) seem to indicate that you need to remove the halfshaft to replace. I understand needing that for clearance when pressing the ball joints out/in to the attached LCA, however, why would this be the case when replacing the entire LCA? Seemed to me I should be able to disconnect the tie rod end, the shock, the torsion bar, and then separate the knucle from the arm. From there should just be 2 bolts to remove, no?

Ultimately, I am asking - from a work effort/time perspective - how bad replacing just ball joints are versus replacing the entire LCA. I'd obviously save cash to just do the ball joints, but I also have 15 year old, 139k mile bushings in the LCAs. Additionally, my time is fairly limited right now, so if it costs a little more for a more speedy/easy repair, it may be worth it. Still saving a ton over having someone else do them!

EDIT: Should also mention that the truck is pretty much at stock height right now. I may lift it a little with a torsion adjustment/torsion keys if I were to replace the LCAs - I'd be in there anyway, right?

 

[MCAT069]

I just did this on my 04 suburban and replaced the whole lower control arm instead of messing with the ball joints and bushings. A little more money, but I found it much more time efficient. When I priced new ball joints and bushings, the cost wasn't worth my time or effort.

 

[Atrus]

I just did this on my 04 suburban and replaced the whole lower control arm instead of messing with the ball joints and bushings. A little more money, but I found it much more time efficient. When I priced new ball joints and bushings, the cost wasn't worth my time or effort.

I feel the same way - was watching a couple of videos this morning and it seems just as easy. I'll most likely replace the entire UCA and LCA so everything is updated - bushings and all.

How'd it go for you? How long did it all take? Seemed like I should be able to complete it all on a weekend day from what I was watching.

 

[MCAT069]

It went okay. It was a time consuming process to remove the old 200k items. Putting new items on went a lot faster. Took me about 10 hrs in all. I don't have a lift and my 3 year old was "helping" me so the job could definitely get done faster with and WITHOUT certain things.

 

[04Huck]

Definitely would recommend whole arms instead of trying to replace the balljoints/bushings. Not worth the hassle. When we dropped my buddy's 06 Sierra CC a few years ago, he decided he'd just do the balljoints and not the arms. 3.5 hrs later, we had the new ones in. It was insane and new arms aren't that bad price wise. Definitely worth the little extra cost.

 

[Atrus]

Cool, thanks guys. I am no pro, but I am not skittish about ripping stuff apart. I do have air tools as well, so that should help. It's reassuring to hear that this all should be doable in a day or so.

 

[04Huck]

Absolutely, shouldn't take more than a few hours. I think I did the entire front end on my 05 Silverado by myself in about 6-7 hrs and then it was about an hour on the alignment rack the next day. That was front LCAs, UCAs, pitman, idler arm, center link, inner/outer tie rods, both front axles and brakes.

 

[Chubbs]

@Atrus

Cranking the front end level does wonders for the overall appearance and actually look '4x4'

My only suggestion is replace the factory torsion bar keys with the modified version everybody sells. The level keys are advertised as that or something like "0-3 inches lift"

Moog & Delco sell these TB keys for $150 but you can buy identical generics via EBay for $35

Install them at a low setting by the amount threads used on the adjustment bolt; torque them enough to make contact with the key and another 3/8" should be good. After you get the wheels on and set down, and assessed you can always lift the front tires just off the ground to relieve the tension and make small adjustments with that 18mm bolt. If there isn't enough torque on the keys and you have no suspension it will be felt in the first 10-secs & can be remedied in 10-mins. Get it set up the way you want as you drive the truck to alignment appointment. You don't want to make any adjustments after the alignment is completed or it will throw-off the camber. This was my experience, anyway.

Cranking on the factory TB keys makes for a harsh ride and stresses the suspension/drivetrain geometry, in my estimation. On the other hand, you want to utilize the modified keys at the lower end of working capacity. The higher end of their function creates lift and serious degradation of front end geometry, decrease of component service life. There is a sweet spot.

 

[BeenChevy]

Well said guys.

I'm opting out of lower control arm as de-cranking and re-drilling bump-stops may not benefit a complete replace. The lower arm bushings to the frame are 2y/o energies ~Wish I would have replaced the ball-joints then...

Are people noticing the lower joints are that tough? Any advice removing these salted nut bolts? C-clamp press them up and out?

 

[BeenChevy]

This is a horrible job when it comes to rust. Was finally able to get (1) lower ball joint out with heat and lots of hammering..
Still haven't gotten either upper arms off. So far one bolt holding the forward side of the arm snapped clean off - even after being heated and cooled - gonna be fun trying to fish that bolt out.. it still doesn't want to budge. The rear side upper arm bolt-nut did release with heat and water, however the bolt is welded to the frame with rust. Pretty sure I was lied to when this was in for 4-wheel alignment. No way have these been removed in the last couple years. I'm about to use an angle grinder and see if I can slide it in between the bushings to cut the bolt.. suggestions?

UPDATE: The 4" angle grinder is unable to cut deep enough into the mounting bracket without cutting into the arm bracket itself. Looks like i'll need a plasma cutter to hopefully get these upper arms out. What a pain in the ass!