Lowest static GM suv

[kbuskill]

nope I actually run the 25004 struts with all the included rings. I also run a 1/2” spacer between the strut and bottom of the control arm for another 1/2” drop

what’s super nice about putting the strut underneath is the fact that if you want to adjust the height, all you have to do is loosen the bolts and slip a spacer in there (or remove one) and not have to take apart the entire strut assembly
View attachment 346485

1/2" spacer between the lower arm and strut equals 1" drop... just FYI... same as spacers above the strut.

 

[iamdub]

nope I actually run the 25004 struts with all the included rings. I also run a 1/2” spacer between the strut and bottom of the control arm for another 1/2” drop

what’s super nice about putting the strut underneath is the fact that if you want to adjust the height, all you have to do is loosen the bolts and slip a spacer in there (or remove one) and not have to take apart the entire strut assembly
View attachment 346485

Interesting! So, the strut being compressed 2"-3" made it ride only "decent", but being at full length (0" drop) and mounted under the control arm made it ride so much better? I'm glad there's hope for my new-to-me 25004s. It's gotta be a geometry thing cuz a shock is just a damper. Wherever it sits at ride height, it is "at rest" and is only in effect when the piston is moving. Although, I'm not picturing the difference in geometry, either. Maybe I'll just toss in the bolt kit and see what happens.

I agree with the easy adjustment of ride height versus the rings. Also, a 1/2" spacer should equate to about a 1" drop. The difference is multiplied almost by two since the strut is about halfway on the arm from the pivot.

*EDIT* Ken posted the same as I was replying

 

[Doug118]

1/2" spacer between the lower arm and strut equals 1" drop... just FYI... same as spacers above the strut.

is it really? I never knew that. No wonder why it made such a drastic difference

Interesting! So, the strut being compressed 2"-3" made it ride only "decent", but being at full length (0" drop) and mounted under the control arm made it ride so much better? I'm glad there's hope for my new-to-me 25004s. It's gotta be a geometry thing cuz a shock is just a damper. Wherever it sits at ride height, it is "at rest" and is only in effect when the piston is moving. Although, I'm not picturing the difference in geometry, either. Maybe I'll just toss in the bolt kit and see what happens.

I agree with the easy adjustment of ride height versus the rings. Also, a 1/2" spacer should equate to about a 1" drop. The difference is multiplied almost by two since the strut is about halfway on the arm from the pivot.

*EDIT* Ken posted the same as I was replying

When the struts had 0 rings, they bottomed out even over small bumps. It was so bad that it actually blew the bump stop around the body of the shock. I’m used to rough rides from my Honda days when I used to do insane custom suspension for them so it wasn't as horrid as I thought the ride would be. But now that I’m essentially using a stock length strut and it rides better than it did when the truck was stock height

 

[the_tool_man]

... It's gotta be a geometry thing cuz a shock is just a damper. Wherever it sits at ride height, it is "at rest" and is only in effect when the piston is moving...

I'd say it's a combination of reduced strut travel allowing it to bottom out, plus the likelihood that the damping rate of the strut varies with position. I learned that the hard way with another lowered SUV. The shocks, in this case, had a much lower damping rate when compressed 2" below their intended static ride height. No one made drop shock brackets, and I couldn't weld then. So I lived with it. But the ride sucked.

 

[iamdub]

is it really? I never knew that. No wonder why it made such a drastic difference


When the struts had 0 rings, they bottomed out even over small bumps. It was so bad that it actually blew the bump stop around the body of the shock. I’m used to rough rides from my Honda days when I used to do insane custom suspension for them so it wasn't as horrid as I thought the ride would be. But now that I’m essentially using a stock length strut and it rides better than it did when the truck was stock height

Ah! So, maybe the difference in the struts is the body length from that welded ring to the top, and that can't be seen with the spring seats on place. I may be riding on or very close to the internal bump stops and don't even know it.

 

[iamdub]

I'd say it's a combination of reduced strut travel allowing it to bottom out, plus the likelihood that the damping rate of the strut varies with position. I learned that the hard way with another lowered SUV. The shocks, in this case, had a much lower damping rate when compressed 2" below their intended static ride height. No one made drop shock brackets, and I couldn't weld then. So I lived with it. But the ride sucked.

Good to know it still has "more" to give. I could only compare to the ride with the worn stock AutoRide struts (firm). So, I just assumed the BT struts rode like "stock".

 

[992dr]

What front inner fenders will you be using?
Do you think a fender roller will give you the clearance for the rear instead of cutting? Maybe flair it just a bit in the process. Are you planning any tubs out back if clearance does become an issue?
Random question. Did you remove your rear lower spring isolators pads?

Love how your Sub looks, long and low looks so damn good

 

[Doug118]

What front inner fenders will you be using?
Do you think a fender roller will give you the clearance for the rear instead of cutting? Maybe flair it just a bit in the process. Are you planning any tubs out back if clearance does become an issue?
Random question. Did you remove your rear lower spring isolators pads?

Love how your Sub looks, long and low looks so damn good

I bought a tandem trailer fender that I’ll be cutting in half. I learned a very hard lesson, rolling square fenders isn’t a good idea. Both of my fronts got destroyed in the process of rolling them because it didn’t like to bend where the fender curves so I just cut the lips off in the rear. Not possible to tub the rear currently due to this very large speaker box. I still have the spring isolators but those things are so squished they’re pretty much non-existent. If you look at the picture of the notch, you can see the bottom of the spring and the poor isolator

 

[992dr]

I bought a tandem trailer fender that I’ll be cutting in half. I learned a very hard lesson, rolling square fenders isn’t a good idea. Both of my fronts got destroyed in the process of rolling them because it didn’t like to bend where the fender curves so I just cut the lips off in the rear. Not possible to tub the rear currently due to this very large speaker box. I still have the spring isolators but those things are so squished they’re pretty much non-existent. If you look at the picture of the notch, you can see the bottom of the spring and the poor isolatorView attachment 347698View attachment 347699View attachment 347700View attachment 347701

Gotcha, that's a good idea to cut up the fender. Two for one haha.
And I didn't even think about the roller on square fenders, yah ain't happenin there.
Wait, what speaker box?
Hahaha, I'd say it was a bit squished. I was thinking about taking mine out to get a little more drop out back.

 

[Doug118]

Gotcha, that's a good idea to cut up the fender. Two for one haha.
And I didn't even think about the roller on square fenders, yah ain't happenin there.
Wait, what speaker box?
Hahaha, I'd say it was a bit squished. I was thinking about taking mine out to get a little more drop out back.

This is the worse fender of the two. You can see how the top is nice where it’s flat then right where it starts to curve is where I had major issues. I’m leaving them for now because I plan on wrapping the truck soon so I’ll just grab 2 new fenders right before I wrap it that way I don’t waste money on paint