Magnuson Supercharger, Valve Train and other supporting mods. 2007-2013, 5.3L Chevy Tahoe

[Chrismnj]

That does not take into consideration a supercharger. Specifically with a positive Displacement Blower, any restrictions whatsoever before the throttle body are a major loss for HP. I'm running the same AirAid box and filter he bought with a 5" intake tube. I gaurentee it makes more power than any modified stock intake. OP is installing a blower... Those intake tests mean nothing.

I guess it's possible to modify AirAid to include additional air inlet from a fender.

 

[12BlackTahoe]

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[kbuskill]

found a place near me that does ceramic coatings. do you know how expensive service like that is?

I guess it depends on your area... probably $200-$300... I'm guessing.

 

[Chrismnj]

I guess it depends on your area... probably $200-$300... I'm guessing.

only headers correct?

 

[kbuskill]

That does not take into consideration a supercharger. Specifically with a positive Displacement Blower, any restrictions whatsoever before the throttle body are a major loss for HP. I'm running the same AirAid box and filter he bought with a 5" intake tube. I gaurentee it makes more power than any modified stock intake. OP is installing a blower... Those intake tests mean nothing.

I understand what your saying and I agree. I wish I could remember where I found the info for how many CFM the stock air box could flow. Unfortunately I can't seem to find the info now but it was quite a bit.

***edit***

Here are a couple things I found...



Not the CFM ratings I was looking for but circumstantial evidence at least.

I know in the Magnuson supercharger install manual it tells you to swap the paper filter for a K&N style filter and hook the new intake pipe that comes with the maggy to your stock air box.

I believe most other brands recommend the same.

Not trying to argue or start a fight just saying that the stock air box is not as restrictive as some might think.

 

[kbuskill]

only headers correct?

Yes... Again that is just a guess.

I would check with powder coasters in your area as some of those guys do ceramic coating as well... if not they can probably tell you who does it in your area.

Also make sure the do the inside of the headers as well.

 

[Chrismnj]

Long tube for sure, only question is how big... Bigger the better for forced induction down the road (1 7/8" or 2"). Mine are 1 7/8" because I believe that's the largest you can go on the trucks. Spark plug changes aren't easy, not gonna lie unless you remove wheel well liners. Our engine bays get cramped quick.

If you're not going forced induction, go with the smaller long tubes so you retain as much low end torque as possible. Throttle body spacer I can't comment on for N/A applications. I welded one to my supercharger snout to open it up to 102mm and use the O ring and I can say it definitely helped with air flow and was required so my supercharger pulley didn't hit the throttle body without flipping it upside down.

As far as spark plugs, wires and coils what would you recommend?

 

[12BlackTahoe]

I guess it's possible to modify AirAid to include additional air inlet from a fender.

Problem solved. I did some math and that's what i came up with.

K&N drop in has 220.22 SqIn
AirAid oval cone has 246.88 SqIn of real estate
so 26.66 SqIn more than any drop in. So in you add the cutout as on OEM box i can't see how factory box will outperform AirAid box in addition AirAid has that tube going down to get the cold air in from under the truck. also being open on the top and sealed from the engine bay and having air forced in through around light assembly, and superchargers intake tube is shorter and more direct than any tube of any air intake system. Please correct me if I am wrong.

 

[67RS427]

As far as spark plugs, wires and coils what would you recommend?

I'd go with a NGK one stage colder than a stock LSA. That would be a NGK TR7IX if you want the "best" iridium plug. However, I will say after going through two sets of them that depending on your boost levels, you may wanna skip the expensive iridium and go with a standard copper plug. I don't want or care if a plug lasts 100k miles with my 900hp "race" engine. I'm more than happy to do spark plug changes every 3k-10k miles on a race truck like mine. So in that case, the cheaper traditional copper plugs actually work much better with high cylinder pressure and will work better with more boost. Right now I'm running the NGK BP7EFS (3526). It took my forever to find a #7 plug that was copper and not platinum or iridium but my truck is much much happier with that plug. It's cheaper too and idles way better, motor is happier in general but I'm also running 15psi which is a higher cylinder pressure.

 

[donjetman]

found a place near me that does ceramic coatings. do you know how expensive service like that is?

There are a couple of places near me too. I used https://www.facebook.com/cradincoatings/ . I had them do a set for my TopSportsman drag race car recently(see pics), $450. They can do black too. They can even put custom design schemes(flame jobs etc) in the coating.
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