Magnuson Supercharger, Valve Train and other supporting mods. 2007-2013, 5.3L Chevy Tahoe

[67RS427]

I understand what your saying and I agree. I wish I could remember where I found the info for how many CFM the stock air box could flow. Unfortunately I can't seem to find the info now but it was quite a bit.

***edit***

Here are a couple things I found...

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Not the CFM ratings I was looking for but circumstantial evidence at least.

I know in the Magnuson supercharger install manual it tells you to swap the paper filter for a K&N style filter and hook the new intake pipe that comes with the maggy to your stock air box.

I believe most other brands recommend the same.

Not trying to argue or start a fight just saying that the stock air box is not as restrictive as some might think.

That post is 8 years old and I agree, stock MAF is just fine for under 550hp... Again, we are talking about a supercharger and headers. Once he does that I'm sure he'll add a cam down the road. He will be closer to 700-800hp if done right. Stock size MAF isn't gonna cut it with a Positive Displacement Blower at that point. Bigger the better for the intake, 4" to 5" preferred or you're leaving free HP on the table. Whoever says a bigger MAF causes more problems simply doesn't know how to tune a MAF sensor and/or doesn't wanna spend the time to get it right. I've been tweaking my MAF calibration for months to get it perfect for every throttle position and load. It takes time and patience to get it right, most tuners don't care. They tune for WOT, take your money and move on to the next person.

*Plug wires you will need a 135 degree boot... I burned up a set of modified OEM wires like Kooks suggested. I went with blue Taylor wires and had issues since they didn't clip on very well. Honestly, get the Accel Ceramic Boot wires and be done. Universal set it like $90 on Summit. I had one come apart on me while changing plugs last week and Summit sent me a whole set to replace them even 90 days after return window closed.

*OEM coils, I don't recall which year you have but the truck coil is the most powerful. I'm running the Delco D514A coils. They look great on a ICT Billet coil bracket and my wires are super short.

https://smile.amazon.com/Square-Bra...encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_pd_title

 

[donjetman]

only headers correct?

The place I used https://www.facebook.com/cradincoatings/ does all kinds of stuff, pistons, guns, etc etc. They are the only FAA approved coater for aircraft stuff.

 

[Chrismnj]

The place I used https://www.facebook.com/cradincoatings/ does all kinds of stuff, pistons, guns, etc etc. They are the only FAA approved coater for aircraft stuff.

ok cool, I had my wife's H&K powder coated locally and was happy with the results, time to revisit them 2nd price never hurts.

 

[Chrismnj]

That post is 8 years old and I agree, stock MAF is just fine for under 550hp... Again, we are talking about a supercharger and headers. Once he does that I'm sure he'll add a cam down the road. He will be closer to 700-800hp if done right. Stock size MAF isn't gonna cut it with a Positive Displacement Blower at that point. Bigger the better for the intake, 4" to 5" preferred or you're leaving free HP on the table. Whoever says a bigger MAF causes more problems simply doesn't know how to tune a MAF sensor and/or doesn't wanna spend the time to get it right. I've been tweaking my MAF calibration for months to get it perfect for every throttle position and load. It takes time and patience to get it right, most tuners don't care. They tune for WOT, take your money and move on to the next person.

*Plug wires you will need a 135 degree boot... I burned up a set of modified OEM wires like Kooks suggested. I went with blue Taylor wires and had issues since they didn't clip on very well. Honestly, get the Accel Ceramic Boot wires and be done. Universal set it like $90 on Summit. I had one come apart on me while changing plugs last week and Summit sent me a whole set to replace them even 90 days after return window closed.

*OEM coils, I don't recall which year you have but the truck coil is the most powerful. I'm running the Delco D514A coils. They look great on a ICT Billet coil bracket and my wires are super short.

https://smile.amazon.com/Square-Bra...encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_pd_title

mine is 2012, I have purchased set to OEM AcDelco coils while back, guess will put them on. But definitely will order 135 degree Accel Ceramic Boot wires. Actually that was my next question about the boot since putting on bigger headers. thank you for your help.

 

[Chrismnj]

Problem solved. I did some math and that's what i came up with.

K&N drop in has 220.22 SqIn
AirAid oval cone has 246.88 SqIn of real estate
so 26.66 SqIn more than any drop in. So in you add the cutout as on OEM box i can't see how factory box will outperform AirAid box in addition AirAid has that tube going down to get the cold air in from under the truck. also being open on the top and sealed from the engine bay and having air forced in through around light assembly, and superchargers intake tube is shorter and more direct than any tube of any air intake system. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Most likely you are correct, but missing @kbuskill point all he said is that BBP has done testing on stock truck and AirAid tube combined with stock box is good enough. I am sure he will agree with your point of view when we take supercharger headers Y pipe and tune in to consideration, maybe cam down the road as @67RS427 mention

 

[kbuskill]

Most likely you are correct, but missing @kbuskill point all he said is that BBP has done testing on stock truck and AirAid tube combined with stock box is good enough. I am sure he will agree with your point of view when we take supercharger headers Y pipe and tune in to consideration, maybe cam down the road as @67RS427 mention

Yeah. I am not disagreeing with what anyone here is saying, especially not someone who is running a supercharger and is putting out great numbers.

I was simply trying to point out that while alot of folks think you need to swap out to some fancy intake/filter it's not necessary in all cases.

If Jenna Bear is running a supercharger on a 6.2l with the stock air box then to me that says something.

I don't think anyone would argue that the 6.2l would be a heavier breather than a 5.3l.

If she thinks it's good enough for her, and I think the argument could be made that she has access to any intake she wants as well as a dyno to test it all out (and probably custom tuning, lol), then its good enough for me.

Again, I don't know what all was done to her truck but I will assume it is stock internals so adding a cam and more cubes like @67RS427 is running and you probably do need more intake.

 

[Chrismnj]

Well here is another question, since I am going with supercharger and will have OEM intake manifold out should I replace anything else? That be a pain to replace after SC is in.

 

[kbuskill]

Well here is another question, since I am going with supercharger and will have OEM intake manifold out should I replace anything else? That be a pain to replace after SC is in.

Oil pressure sending unit and knock sensors are both hiding under the intake.

 

[67RS427]

Well here is another question, since I am going with supercharger and will have OEM intake manifold out should I replace anything else? That be a pain to replace after SC is in.

Oil pressure sending unit and knock sensors are both hiding under the intake.

I agree with the oil pressure sending unit... As far as I know, the knock sensors are on the side of the block like my engine, they were under the valley cover on the older motors like the iron block I'm using though (I relocated mine to the side of the block). How many miles do you have on it? Valve train pretty quiet? I guess if it were me I'd replace the lifters with LS7 lifters because they are so cheap. Pushrods as well while you're at it and rockers with a quality trunion upgrade but that can all wait until you do a CAM but you'd be removing the blower again. All very cheap insurance for future use and better for high RPM abuse. The bottom end should be just fine but those few items up top can get you a long way. If you do replace the lifters, make sure you replace the plastic trays that hold them, they are cheap as well and get brittle with age.

**If you think I'm crazy, here's a reference to part of my build thread. I was delayed with a wrong part and decided to pull my heads to repair an exhaust bolt. Found other issues that would have screwed me and decided to replace rockers, lifters and a few other things. Better safe than sorry: https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...-hand-really-quick.92148/page-10#post-1126942

 

[Chrismnj]

Oil pressure sending unit and knock sensors are both hiding under the intake.

these items are best to replace with OEM correct?