Magnuson Supercharger, Valve Train and other supporting mods. 2007-2013, 5.3L Chevy Tahoe

[67RS427]

k, will look in to them, long tube?, what is you take on throttle body spacer?

Long tube for sure, only question is how big... Bigger the better for forced induction down the road (1 7/8" or 2"). Mine are 1 7/8" because I believe that's the largest you can go on the trucks. Spark plug changes aren't easy, not gonna lie unless you remove wheel well liners. Our engine bays get cramped quick.

If you're not going forced induction, go with the smaller long tubes so you retain as much low end torque as possible. Throttle body spacer I can't comment on for N/A applications. I welded one to my supercharger snout to open it up to 102mm and use the O ring and I can say it definitely helped with air flow and was required so my supercharger pulley didn't hit the throttle body without flipping it upside down.

 

[Chrismnj]

Just FYI... the TB spacer is a waste of time and money on these engines since they are not TB fuel injected. The injectors are down stream so it has no effect on fuel atomization like the older vehicles.

Also... BBP did dyno tests on a bunch of intakes and concluded that the best power per dollar came from just changing the intake tube to the MIT and keeping the stock (cold air) box.

Not knocking your choices just trying to help you save a buck.

thank you!, I don't think I be able to use the tube that comes with this intake anyway after SC gets installed,

 

[kbuskill]

thank you!, I don't think I be able to use the tube that comes with this intake anyway after SC gets installed,

Also about the headers... whatever you go with, I would recommend getting them ceramic coated if you can't order them already coated.

 

[HiHoeSilver]

k, will look in to them, long tube?, what is you take on throttle body spacer?

Send it back and keep your $.

 

[Chrismnj]

Just FYI... the TB spacer is a waste of time and money on these engines since they are not TB fuel injected. The injectors are down stream so it has no effect on fuel atomization like the older vehicles.

Also... BBP did dyno tests on a bunch of intakes and concluded that the best power per dollar came from just changing the intake tube to the MIT and keeping the stock (cold air) box.

Not knocking your choices just trying to help you save a buck.

Just to confirm "best power per dollar" doesn't mean that MIT tube with stock box outperformed whole intake system correct or it did?

 

[Chrismnj]

Send it back and keep your $.

its what I am hearing, that is just a whistleblower at its best.

 

[01FormulaTA]

Kooks or ARH for the headers, both make top notch products. Go with whichever you can get the best deal on between the 2. I would stick with 1 3/4", better clearance and low end at the sacrifice of some top end power.

 

[Chrismnj]

would this work?

 

[67RS427]

would this work?View attachment 214686

You can save a few hundred if you shop around on those

 

[67RS427]

would this work?View attachment 214686

You can save a few hundred if you shop around on those

I paid $900 for my Kooks headers, #28502400 and the Y pipe was $525 I believe... The headers I ordered from Johnny at justboltons.com and email him for the best price. Y pipe I ordered from Maryland speed which I can't recommend if you want them quick. There's a few dealers here that can get you a good deal and might even have them in stock.