Maintenance at quarter million?

[NMPastor]

2005 Suburban (same as the Yukon XL), 5.3 Flex, 267k

I need to keep this another 150k.

Recent work:

factory water pump and hoses

heater hoses

charcoal canister, vent and purge valve

New OEM shocks at about 200k

I'm thinking about redoing brakes...hoses, calipers, pads and rotors.

It's probably only had non-synthetic oil (I have used Castrol full synthetic) in it twice, maybe three times, have always used K&N HP filters. Starting to use a little oil. Is it time for me to move over to a high-mileage oil.

What else should I be thinking about?

Thanks for your input.

 

[ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)]

charcoal canisters are good for the life of the vehicle dont bother with the evap system unless your getting p0440 p0442 p0446 etc codes even when the evap systemp fails it doesent cuase any driveability issues
id think about the intake manifold gasket oil pan gasket id knock out any easily replaceble gaskets or seals
window regulators (i feel like im always replacing those)

 

[NMPastor]

I have recently had a P0442, and extreme difficulty filling the tank for over a year. So I'm trying to fix the evap system, easy stuff first.

I've done two intake manifold gaskets on a 2001 Yukon XL recently, so I've got a lot of practice. It was replaced by a dealer about 120k ago, but that would have been with an OEM paper-thin one, as opposed to the FelPro that actually has some body to it.

I do window regulators as they fail.

What about the alternator?

 

[ccapehartusarmyINF.(ret)]

if you having evap issues the p0442 code i happen to have alot of expereince with that system LOL
do the purge valve and vent valve solenoid and a new gas cap then clear the trouble codes and that should fix it the drive cycle before the evap system is tested again is quite lengthly
so dont think yer outta the woods becuase A check engine light doesnt show up right away
the charcoal canister is the very last thing to replace becuase they last the life of the vehicle and in rare chances its possible to contaminate it by over filling yer tank wich ive never seen anyone do that i mean you really gotta over fill yer tank somehow
stick a volt meter on yer alternator and if its kicken out over 14 volts should be fine if its kicken out under 13.8 its possible its no bueno

 

[wesyder]

I have just about the same mileage on my 05 denali, how are you doing on oil leaks? Ive just done all external gaskets that are exposed to oil including the rear main seal


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[NMPastor]

It's just starting to use a little oil. Less than a quart between changes. I think that the combination of the synthetic and the good filters has done well for us.

I have had a seep around the oil pan for years. the kind that collects dust. But it hasn't really caused any problems. Nothing dripping, thankfully.

I'm thinking about just re-tightening the bolts to torque spec, and see if that gets rid of the seep.

Some of the OEM gaskets are absolutely horrible...especially the intake manifold. Combine that with the fact that the torque spec on the plastic manifold is so low...it's a recipe for trouble.

 

[SLCHOE]

P0442 AND resistance to fueling is 99% of the time a bad canister vent solenoid. P0442 itself is 99% bad gas cap. These contradict eachother as the "hard to fill" symptom indicates a vent solenoid stuck closed where a P0442 code indicates a leak. IT may be that the solenoid failed open and threw a code 442 and then worked a little while longer and stuck closed and finally died causing the fill resistance issue. I'd change both just to be sure. Gas caps are cheap.

As far as oil consumption goes, run full synthetic from now on. At 200K plus, your engine has earned it. LOL

Also, you have over 200K miles, your piston rings are worn. You are going to pass oil unless you rebuild.

 

[NMPastor]

Canister Purge Valve, Canister, Solenoid Vent and Gas Cap have all recently been replaced. The tank is still hard to fill. Hasn't thrown off another P0442, but that has tended to take some time.

I did not replace or clear the hose between the vent and the canister when I did the work, but think I need to at least check it. If that is OK, then it's probably time to pull and check the filler and main vent hoses and take a look at the check valves.

At this point in time I don't have any intent to rebuild. I'm sure it would be fun, but it's not a high priority item.

 

[SLCHOE]

Yes check the vent lines for restrictions. Blow them out if possible.

 

[NMPastor]

I detached the vent line at the canister side...no improvement at all.

It is frustrating that I can't find diagrams that represent the reality of what I have. The pictures at ALLDATADIY, generally the best I have access to, do not bear any relationship to the reality of what I have under this vehicle. NONE. They tell me that what they have they were given by GM/Chevrolet.

I've got other stuff that is more pressing, so I'll be leaving this one for a while. Next step is probably to check the actual vent hose from the quick-release at the back end of the tank (on none of the diagrams) to the filler. After that, the check valves where they connect to the tank itself (If I can get to them, as they may be where the fuel pump is).

If any of you GM tech types can shed some light on this, perhaps with actual pictures of what it really looks like under there, that would be great.