Metal in oil

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Foggy

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I have replaced Crank Sensors before and NOT done the relearn procedure and
all was fine... It's prob a hit or miss thing... But it should run fine

I'd replace it as opposed to cleaning it... You are already there with the starter
out to get to it AND it might just be worn out as well as the metal issue too
 
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87carl

87carl

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What would be best way to clean crank sensor? And do you think cow magnets are strong enough I have some of them. I might have a old computer somewhere I will have to look. I will grab some cheap walmart oil and some fram oil filters when I go to town to visit my dad.
 

Rocket Man

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What would be best way to clean crank sensor? And do you think cow magnets are strong enough I have some of them. I might have a old computer somewhere I will have to look. I will grab some cheap walmart oil and some fram oil filters when I go to town to visit my dad.
Hoping for the best for you, your truck and your dad. You have determination that’s for sure. You’ve received some good information here.
 
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87carl

87carl

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Thank you. glad I cought it before it killed the motor praying didn't do much long term damage to any bearings or anything. Is anything else other than crank sensor magnetic inside the engine?
 
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87carl

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Been busy taking care of dad so the suburban has been sitting in pieces. Finally had time to get the motor together. Cranked it with coils unhooked to prime oil plugged them in and it fired up instantly. But the number 1 cylinder has a bad lifter tick now. Draining oil for first flush change now. Hopefully it will stop ticking after couple changes flushing it. Found a new motor but waiting for guy to pull it and want to rebuild it before it can go in hopefully this will be ok till then
 

Geotrash

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Most likely the lifter bled off oil pressure, and hopefully will come back up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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87carl

87carl

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Most likely the lifter bled off oil pressure, and hopefully will come back up.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That's what I was wondering. Isn't that one of the afm lifters?
 

Geotrash

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Yes, cylinders 1, 4, 6 & 7 are AFM cylinders. That said, it's almost impossible to tell which lifter or even which cylinder is making the noise. When I had a failed lifter immediately after a cam swap, it sounded like it was coming from #1 but was actually #6. Go figure.

One diagnostic you can do easily is pull the drivers side valve cover and look for a loose rocker if it doesn't settle down on its own.
 

thompsoj22

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Just got front cover off found the problem timing chain tensioner came apart. And the mangled piece in second picture was between oil pump and crank sprocket grinding on sprocket. So aslong as the metal in the oil didn't damage any bearings or anything it should hopefully be alright? Still gotta drop the differential and steering rack to get oil pan off. Sorry pics are dark phones dying and I'm under a tarp it's pouring out.


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Holy shit! Great work given the conditions you are working in, Reminds me of me! Hey JMO but given the conditions you are working in you may consider simply flushing the pan by pouring diesel fuel down the front cover and flushing the pan that way. Laying and assembling in "mud" wont be the cleanest finished result anyway. Just consider it? i mean a couple gallons as fast as you can pour it in, to wash the windage tray and flush the pan through the drain plug. Your oil pump is for sure damaged.
 
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87carl

87carl

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Yes, cylinders 1, 4, 6 & 7 are AFM cylinders. That said, it's almost impossible to tell which lifter or even which cylinder is making the noise. When I had a failed lifter immediately after a cam swap, it sounded like it was coming from #1 but was actually #6. Go figure.

One diagnostic you can do easily is pull the drivers side valve cover and look for a loose rocker if it doesn't settle down on its own.

Holy shit! Great work given the conditions you are working in, Reminds me of me! Hey JMO but given the conditions you are working in you may consider simply flushing the pan by pouring diesel fuel down the front cover and flushing the pan that way. Laying and assembling in "mud" wont be the cleanest finished result anyway. Just consider it? i mean a couple gallons as fast as you can pour it in, to wash the windage tray and flush the pan through the drain plug. Your oil pump is for sure damaged.

It quieted down after second oil flush ran in for a While. Didn't think to try diesel fuel but with it ticking second flush I stuck 3 quarts of 15w 40 1 quart lucas and 1 quart atf. Started thick and light pink came out dark pinkish brown still getting metal on the magnet but oil is looking better coming out. Running great no codes but can't get it inspected yet because o2 sensor and o2 sensor heater and evap readiness monitors won't set. Evap almost never does on this burb. but normally o2 monitors will set so idk why it won't. Drove over 200 miles already. Only theory I have is morning before I did oil change that lead to all this, I deleted the resonators off the parts burbs intake tube and swapped it on also opened holes between filter box and fender. Basically a ugly but free cold air intake. Worked surprisingly well. This burb usually struggles climbing the hill if taking right out of our driveway before would barely do 55 going up it after doing intake it was able to hit 70 by time I got to the top. didn't expect that only expected more noise lol. Idk if that is messing with o2s? I've had cold air intakes cause lean codes on other vehicles. Later I will swap stock tube back on temporarily and see if they will set.
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