Mild 6.0L Build Suggestions?

[Tonyrodz]

Released a 6.0 LS back to its natural habitat today.. Took about 3 hours. Give one for fiddling with lift. Was pretty easy...

Trick was having that harbor freight siccsor jack for transmission. Make adjusting dowel pins and aligning transmission a cinch.

I would recommend getting valley cover plate to lift with.. was real nervous using accesory bolt holes on heads.

Also having took front bumper and core support off made a HUGE difference.

I put front bumper on as was tired of tripping over it but should have left it off.



Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Nice, congrats! Get that puppy running!

 

[1BADI5]

Released a 6.0 LS back to its natural habitat today.. Took about 3 hours. Give one for fiddling with lift. Was pretty easy...

Trick was having that harbor freight siccsor jack for transmission. Make adjusting dowel pins and aligning transmission a cinch.

I would recommend getting valley cover plate to lift with.. was real nervous using accesory bolt holes on heads.

Also having took front bumper and core support off made a HUGE difference.

I put front bumper on as was tired of tripping over it but should have left it off.



Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

Hell yeah man, well done

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Cannot wait to get it running. Mostly amostly assembly work now. But still need to figure out how to setup and run the wideband O2 :/

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Got all my bolts in, and slack taken out. Starting to put the bellhousing, and motor mount to frame bolts to torque spec.

Before I do that though, I torqued the flex plate bots. Probably that should be done last, however, I'm wanting to quadropoly check I don't have one of those builds that requires the spacer on end of crankshaft.

How would I know if I required that spacer on crankshaft snout (I'm not familiar with trust specs on 4L60E Converter). Here's my casting numbers:

Block: 12551364
Crankshaft: *sigh* I should have wrote more of this stuff down, is from a 2001 5.3L LM7

It looked like the torque converter had about 1/150 inch of space or so (just eyeballing it). Once I put in the toque converter to flywheel bolts everything came together easily. I know that torque converter moves back and forth a bit on the tranny output shaft but no idea how much?

 

[fasteddy]

Awesome!
That has to be the only solid roller, Tony Mamo advised Tahoe that I know of.
Now for a 150 shot of N2O! Plate driven.....easy peasy!.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

I am curious about thrust specs (forward and backward movement) on torque converter behind flex plate. I had about 150 thosands (eyeball measure) of slack when bolting up the torque converter. Slack was taken up by bolts, curious if that is within nominal specs.

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk

 

[fasteddy]

I think your flexplate/converter is fine.....stock converter right? Should bolt right up.

Solid Roller YES!
Johnson 2116LSR link bar lifters. That's your roller yes?

What did you think the SR in 2116LSR stood for?

LSR=Low (travel) Solid Roller....

Mamo-ized Solid Roller Tahoe (MSRT)

I've never seen it done with stock rockers, usually adjustable rockers.
Which make LLSR valvetrain. Low Lash Solid Roller.
Very popular for high rev applications, prevents valve float.
And they have to be adjusted after startup.
I don't know what the process or adjustment cycle is with the stock rockers.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Ah yeah, they still are hydraulic but damn near a solid roller. I think the piston is 93 thousands long. I think factory LS7 drop-ins are like 150 thousands? My only fear is the cam won't like it and burn up, which would, well stink.

Manton Pushrods helped me spec the pushrods so all else should be fine. It should oil similarly to factory lifter just a bit less volume of oil. I need to hit up Tony one of these days when I come across some good loot and after the transmission is built. I would LOVE LOVE LOVE the 205 AFR mongoose heads. Roger Vinci said they'd be the perfect combo for what I want, a truck / torque motor.

Crazy thing, I built a low torque motor that could handle 7500 RPM. Kind of an oddity. I really didn't know what I bought when I purchased the LSR lifters. However, Manton said they will work awesome for what I want to do. I just don't know how much of a beating the cam will take with them / how much if any dampening they really do.

I think you're right on transmission. Apparently some of the early 6.0 motors had a different crankshaft to hook up to a 4L80E. That had a longer snout. I did some reading on it, finally found the info. And yup I'm doing a 4L60E (stock) with this 6.0 build. The built transmission is coming up next (different thread).

 

[fasteddy]

OK
Looking forward to hearing it run!
Ya know, you can start it up without the waterpump and AC on ...
Just crank the starter with the coils unhooked to get oil pressure and no fire.
Get fuel pressure.
Then run it for like 30 seconds to see how it sounds.
That's what I do.....just to validate.

This guy runs his on a stand.....for a few minutes...I don't do that.

LS LQ4 Startup On Engine Stand - YouTube

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Yeah is what I will do. Prob start it without all the hoopla hooked up. Just spin with starter. Thrn with fuel, then with plugs and let run for a few seconds. Lastly reassemble everything.

Only thing is I have a 5.3L fuel map in my computer and this is a cammed 6.0L

I may need to at least program computer with LQ9 maps to start it for few seconds? Not sure...

In my LT1 I put a much larger cam. However, I just ran it with stock tune for quite a while. This time I have bigger cylinders too so not sure if I can even safely start it?

Sent from my SM-A505U using Tapatalk