Mild 6.0L Build Suggestions?

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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Roger is awesome! He helped me on the phone at 9PM his time.

It is not every business were you get to talk to the owner, and guy who designed the parts... Parts for the whole industry.

I def second what you say. I would never do another build without Roger's help at this point. He was passionate and loved to answer my questions. Plus quality of his parts was astonishing for same or less than other cams... minus some budget grinds made from chinese steal.

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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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Made a bit more progress today then ran into bottle necks.

- Got O2 Sensor wiring in through the firewall. Need to tap power somewhere and find mounting solution. I have discussion HERE for that.
- Have some miscellaneous nuances to tidy up on the core support yet HERE

Went to service the transmission. Turns out my drain bolt was tightened by somebody with a bit much zest. It's locked in and head stripped off. I need to get an easy out now for it. I'm curious if I should get new Sonnax super hold servos while I'm at it. I think I can change the ones on the side of the case without dropping the transmission? I do plan on building another transmission but can always swap that over and am curious if it'll help this one handle the power a bit better till then?

So far as I know my power steering lines are all original 240k miles. They look great and everything works perfectly but not sure if you need to replace those every so often?
 

mattt

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@mattt congrads on your build! It's crazy fun to do this. I would have LOVED to go for 205 Mongoose heads from AFR. If I had a big build budget those would have hit the spot with the cam I bought.

I also think those rods are DEFINATELY superior. I just was concerned about oil pressure tolerances and had no way to validate them in the design, yet I installed low pressure drop lifters haha.

Per the cam, call Roger. You won't regret it. There is a guy on Youtube that reviews Cams on the dyno for LS stuff. Roger Holdener. Everybody LOVES his stuff and don't get me wrong it's very valuable. However, I have issue with most of the information out there on the internet on building these engines.

They assume you're interested only in wide open throttle pulls. Dyno runs aren't able to do much for us at partial throttle or lower RPMS. The internet is fantastic at building a garage warrior big cam high peak output motor but not a truck build.

I think you are looking for something similar to me. I wanted good performance down low where it counts with a truck. I too wanted good partial throttle response. This takes a person who really knows their stuff to spec it out.

The home builders are IN LOVE with lots of overlap and big cams. They are fun no doubt. However, the more I studied the more I learned you won't want that overlap. LS heads are very good and don't require much overlap. Overlap also is lost pressure (power) out the exhaust and not creating HP in your cylinder.

Next when I dug deeper into cam design. I learned RV Cams were a better route, almost pulled trigger on a Comp Cams XFI truck cam. I called up Comp Cams to ask how hard they are on the springs. They didn't really have an answer for me. Those cams decrease overlap by making a steeper ramp on the cam, and flatter top (more time with valve open farther). I was concerned that would wear fast on my valve springs and when I called they said they haven't got data on that, which worried me. I don't want to build a truck motor that lasts for a few years then drops a valve.

Long story short. I called Roger Vinci. Don't regret it one bit. He saved me money, I got superior parts, and exactly speced to what I want. He also spent a good 2 hours on phone helping me with my build. I'll be posting here once I'm out on the road. Got me dual valve springs that don't have a ton of seat pressure, yet give me redundancy. He understood my concerns and has decades of experience designing cams not just for his customers but also the big name brands and racing teams. He knew EXACTLY what to do for a truck cam too / partial throttle, low RPM torque, and high MPG.

I'm sure he'd know how to make you a cam that could meet your smog requirements. Tell him the guy who build his motor with Johnson Lifters referred you haha. He'll remember me. If you have any further build questions PM me. I'd be more than happy to help out :)

[email protected] | 407-478-8388


Thanks man, appreciate the offer. After watching all of Holdener's videos, I came away thinking the same thing. From a purely performance stand point, he is well respected, but daily driver duty is a different animal.

It's interesting that these rods were a limited run from GM, as my armchair speculation would think they are superior for lubrication given what info you found on them. Wonder whey they discontinued the notch.

I'll check with Roger on his camshaft options. Thanks for the referral and contact info.

I'm guessing you're one of the lucky ones that doesn't have to submit to the every other year car proctologist smog check? That is good from our perspective which opens up your options immensely on what you can do with your rig.

Good luck getting your 6.0 Tahoe buttoned up and back on the road. Looking good! :cheers:
 
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Matthew Jeschke

Matthew Jeschke

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@mattt yeah I am fortunate we have no smog test. However, they do them right up the street from me in Tucson. My zip code they are not required, yet [emoji51]

That said from what I understand here, they just hook to the computer and don't do an extensive test. At least from what I understand. I am pretty sure on EFI they don't sniff the tailpipe so I would imagine one could easily pass the test.

Sorry you live in CA with all the beurocracy [emoji3064] trend seems to be enveloping more of the country.

Was my opinion those rods are better. You will get good use out of them. Let me know how youe build turns out

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mattt

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Made a bit more progress today then ran into bottle necks.

- Got O2 Sensor wiring in through the firewall. Need to tap power somewhere and find mounting solution. I have discussion HERE for that.
- Have some miscellaneous nuances to tidy up on the core support yet HERE

Went to service the transmission. Turns out my drain bolt was tightened by somebody with a bit much zest. It's locked in and head stripped off. I need to get an easy out now for it. I'm curious if I should get new Sonnax super hold servos while I'm at it. I think I can change the ones on the side of the case without dropping the transmission? I do plan on building another transmission but can always swap that over and am curious if it'll help this one handle the power a bit better till then?

So far as I know my power steering lines are all original 240k miles. They look great and everything works perfectly but not sure if you need to replace those every so often?

That would be the factory with the gorilla tightened trans drain plug. Or from the way I heard it, it has to do with the design, a rubber O-ring up against the pan surface and lots of heat cycling. Mine was like that the first time I removed it too. I rounded it off and used an extractor to get it out the first time. This happening is all too common. Bought a new plug and haven't had the problem since, but I always use a 15mm 6 point socket to remove it now....vs just any old 15mm socket.

Sorry nothing to add on the servos, but are you planning for a full rebuild on the trans and coversion to a 5 planetary, making your trans a 4L65? Servos done at the same time? That is my plan once the engine is in. Trans rebuild is very shortly after it's running, since still on the factory original trans too.
 
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Matthew Jeschke

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sure thing, I bought a broken 4L60E... I will build it up with 5 pinion planetaries, better clutches, shell, etc. Then swap it in once done. I have a separate post for thay. Was planning to do it before a 6.0 swap but blew my 5.3L... Not sure if will be a 4L65E spec... ot just a beafy 4L60 variant of my own. there is a guy builds them on youtube and will build one to order... I took notes from him... perforabuild? cannot recall exact name.

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mattt

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sure thing, I bought a broken 4L60E... I will build it up with 5 pinion planetaries, better clutches, shell, etc. Then swap it in once done. I have a separate post for thay. Was planning to do it before a 6.0 swap but blew my 5.3L... Not sure if will be a 4L65E spec... ot just a beafy 4L60 variant of my own. there is a guy builds them on youtube and will build one to order... I took notes from him... perforabuild? cannot recall exact name.

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If my understanding is correct, the main difference 4l60 v 4l65 is the 5 pinion planetary gears. The way I see it is if GM found it necessary to make the 4l65(RPO M32) standard equipment in the 6.0 Escalade and Yukon Denali, then it must be for good reason as they are cheap asses when it comes to building vehicles. If they can save a few pennies on every vehicle, GM will do it. Look at us 03+ guys that had no underhood light or footwell lights as std equipment because of penny pinching GM.
 

livingez_123

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I just went through my LQ4 and went with the Summit Pro LS truck cam, very healthy form idle to 5200rpm.
 

livingez_123

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I found a block with machine work completed cam bearings installed and ready to assemble. they will include the LQ9 pistons and rods. They want $1000

Then I use my crankshaft.
and parts I order to upgrade.

Seems to be a okay deal?

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Yes, that's a decent deal because finding a good 6.0 core engine will cost you $500-$700
 

livingez_123

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sure thing, I bought a broken 4L60E... I will build it up with 5 pinion planetaries, better clutches, shell, etc. Then swap it in once done. I have a separate post for thay. Was planning to do it before a 6.0 swap but blew my 5.3L... Not sure if will be a 4L65E spec... ot just a beafy 4L60 variant of my own. there is a guy builds them on youtube and will build one to order... I took notes from him... perforabuild? cannot recall exact name.

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Buy good parts and build it yourself. 4L60e's are gravy. Just take your time with the lip seals.
 

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