Moisture out the tailpipe, sign of cracked head?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

SnowDrifter

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 5, 2016
Posts
2,433
Reaction score
2,663
Location
Washington. The desert side not the Starbucks side
When burning hydrocarbons, one of the products of the reaction is water. If you are interested to see if you have a cracked head, a check for combustion gas in the coolant, compression test, and oil analysis should be part of your steps to diagnose

methanecombustion-58e3e6005f9b58ef7e0daa10.jpg
 

PG01

Supporting Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2016
Posts
14,820
Reaction score
18,076
Location
Up here to the right
Guys, over thinking it, cold exhaust, hot engine gases equals condensation.... normal everyday stuff. Yes short trips rot out exhaust faster from inside out.
 
OP
OP
M

mattt

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Posts
738
Reaction score
307
Guys, over thinking it, cold exhaust, hot engine gases equals condensation.... normal everyday stuff. Yes short trips rot out exhaust faster from inside out.


My initial post was warm/hot exhaust, hot engine, drip. With temperature differences as you mention, it makes perfect sense. Thanks.
 

Nashoba

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2015
Posts
180
Reaction score
128
Location
South Central Oklahoma
Every vehicle I have ever had did/does this, even my 2015 Silverado which has just 8700 miles on it. Even in the summer. But more often during the cooler/colder months.
 

RET423

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 4, 2017
Posts
130
Reaction score
148
I don't see an issue with the tailpipe water, that is pretty normal; but the noticeable power loss is not normal.

250k or 50k a Vortec/LS engine will pull about the same, if they lose power without an obvious hardware failure like rod knock, dropped valve or massive smoking out the pipe then I would be looking for a problem in the fuel and spark controls including all of the sensors that the computer uses to make fuel and spark/timing decisions.

I have had Oxygen sensors fail by misreporting but since they were sending a signal that was within the valid range no check engine light came on, depending on which way the wrong signal was reporting I would have a very lean condition or a rich condition on the bank with the inaccurate sensor. Also check the fuel pressure while the engine is running to see if the pump and filter are maintaining pressure.
 

Nashoba

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2015
Posts
180
Reaction score
128
Location
South Central Oklahoma
Might be time for you to invest in a computer diagnostic tool so you can see if you computer is throwing any codes that might signify a malfunction that is reducing power. There are some relatively inexpensive ones out there that still do an adequate job of reporting codes.
 

Nashoba

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2015
Posts
180
Reaction score
128
Location
South Central Oklahoma
Good deal that there are no codes that were thrown.

As I have said before, I grew up working for my Dad in his NAPA stores beginning in 1960 till the summer of 1967 when he sold them all due to an illness. I delivered parts all over our town, which was about 30,000 population at the time and beginning at age 14 with a Cushman three wheeled scooter that had a pickup-type bed on the back. Then I graduated to a 1953 Chevy stepside pickup with a six cylinder and three on the tree. The only option was a heater. So I grew up in the store and all the garages in town. The only way I ever was able to detect cracked heads and blown head gaskets was when water was in the oil and when oil was in the water. It was very obvious when either occurred. And it was always obvious when the engines were torn down and all the mains and inserts were galled worn and there was evidence lubrication had been broken down or compromised by the water, or the water pump bearings were shot because of coolant contamination. And the rings and pistons and cylinder walls showed signs of poor to no lubrication. Compression tests verified this. I also learned the usual reasons for poor performance by an engine had to be problems with fuel or fire. If you have already replaced the plugs and plug wires and checked the coil packs and the timing is good and the spark is strong, then maybe fuel is the issue. Are the injectors clean and functioning well? Is the fuel pump delivering enough fuel? Is the fuel filter new and flowing well? Are any of the fuel lines clogged or crimped? Have you had a test of the exhaust gas to see if it is running lean or rich? Someone mentioned the O2 sensors. Are they good? Lots of things to consider before tearing down the engine to look for issues. You've been worried about this for quite a while. You might want to seek professional testing before something bad happens and the motor is damaged to the point of having to rebuild it.
 
OP
OP
M

mattt

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Posts
738
Reaction score
307
Uh oh....looks like it might have the Castech cracked head syndrome. These are 862 heads, which from what I've read the crack is more typically on 706 heads, but I did find a few instances online of 862's with the problem. The yellow colored ****** down in the tube is kind of gel like. I was able to reach it with my finger. It is yellow in color, not the normal tan, chocolate milk shake color that I've seen in prior water intrusions with oil.

oilfill.jpg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
131,600
Posts
1,853,766
Members
95,791
Latest member
Roncad

Latest posts

Top