More MagnaRide delete questions

[Oh Kee Pah]

Personally, I would be having the front suspension looked over at the dealership. They should easily be able to tell if your shocks have locked up, are leaking, or what other issue could be leading to this "knock" sound over bumps.

If new front shocks are determined to be needed, there are several routes you could take:
1) Dealer replace with OE parts
2) Replace OE parts with aftermarket OE replacement part (ie: AC Delco or similar)
3) Replace with aftermarket shock and/or coil-over assembly. (this could lead to increased ride height w/out using a "leveling" kit) The shock only replacement would use your existing front coil while a coil-over assembly includes the shock absorber and a new spring, mounting, etc.

All sorts of options out there > depends how much $ you want to spend, how smooth of a ride you're seeking and what kind of height increase you would like. Examples of aftermarket include Rough Country's options for 2015-2020 model years; Bilstein 5100s, FOX shocks, Icon.

I have a LTZ with the max tow package. This package includes a higher towing capacity compared to other models. Some differences include a 3.42 gearing ratio, an integrated trailer braking system, and for the rear suspension max towing specific rear coils. My LTZ also came with the Magneride shocks that are air leveling. So, as the weight of rear increased (load, towing, etc.) the shocks called for more dampening effect to combat the load. This was accomplished via the onboard air compressor that fills the air bag on the shock. The air leveling systems seem to be popular for people that do a lot of towing or are hauling some major items, like a bigger boat perhaps. I had Bilstein 5100s (for 0-1" lift) on the rear for a while after I got rid of the air leveling system and loved them. A similar product was not available when I went up to 3" in the rear so I had to switch manufacturers. Was really, really happy with the Bilsteins though. Love my Fox shocks, as does pretty much everyone else I talk to with them on their vehicles...

In terms of increased control during towing and/or general driving, I would suggest starting to research aftermarket sway bars for your setup. Both Hellwig and Hotchkis have reputable products that others here on the forum have installed. I think Cognito may have a product out there too. Usually if it fits a Silverado/Sierra it will fit a Tahoe/Burb. Beefing up the rear sway bar should definitely provide increased stability while towing.



Safe Travels!

 

[Tbt73]

I have a 2015 Tahoe LTZ (100k miles, so far out of warranty). It has the MagnaRide on all 4 corners with the air assist rear; Z95 I think.
The truck has a 3" Rough Country lift and 305/55/20's. At one point in time, it rode decent/acceptable considering the lift. The ride height sensors were properly relocated. Now, its always hit or miss.
Sometimes it starts out stiff, almost like the shocks are locked up - like horse and buggy rocking down the road feel. Other times its intermittent. Sometimes I will cross a bridge on the highway and it has that smooth bounce and floats across - you know, like its supposed to; others it hits so stiff it almost gets uncontrollable in a rock back and forth buggy like feel. Most every morning or the first time I drive it during the day, it feels like its on light rumble strips and then calms down after a few miles and bumps later. This is not the torque converter clutch issue folks speak of, as that was a separate issue and I can easily tell between the two now that it has occurred and been fixed.

I'm sure GM had the best of intentions with MagnaRide as it sounds good on paper, but man, its almost dangerous now. I want it OFF of that truck and I'm trying to figure the best possible solution.

I was considering the Rancho RS999901 Quicklift front struts that come pre-assembled with springs. That way I do not have to disassemble the factory strut and can just remove it and reinstall the new assembly.
They list a non standard qualifier that they are for use on trucks without Z95 MaganRide and/or self leveling rear.

I assume the above is just because of the sensors that need to be bypassed? Does anyone have experience? I know I will need to get the resistors that counter the DTC's and negative effects they cause.
Xineering Electronics sells a bypass kit; although pricey at nearly $500. Does anyone know of a more cost effective solution or is the Xineering kit the way to go for bypassing the shock and ride height sensors?

Also, given I have the magnetic self leveling rear, should I buy the AC Delco non magnetic self leveling shocks as to maintain that capability or just pull it all off and put the RS9000X on the rear?

Last scenario....would just buying the Xineering bypass kit produce satisfactory results by removing any electrical current to the Magnaride Shocks? My assumption says yes, but the ride may be too soft.
Has anyone gone this route prior to replacing Magnetic shocks with non-magnetic variants?

I've read alot of threads on this topic, but still have not arrived at any firm answers based on others' prior experience.

Any help is appreciated!

Not sure if your still on here. But… I’m now having the same issues. 15’ with 107000 miles. Starting to have a lot ride comfort issues. Took off the 22” rims and now have 20”. That helped but I’m sure the magnaride is shot. Did the ride height change at all in the front? I like the stance of the vehicle and I don’t want that to change.

 

[Thrust]

At 107k miles your magnarides are toast if they are original. When the magnaride is shot the shocks/struts start to leak or they are locked up at a certain spot. Have they ever been replaced or are you the original owner?

 

[Skid51]

I have a 2016 Yukon Denali w 90k miles and front magneride shocks are leaking and now stiff. Rear shocks are fine and I do a lot of towing so want to keep rear components and air-leveling unaffected. In replacing the front shocks I am ok with stock ride height or ok with up to 1.5” leveling lift. Have read through this thread and just want to clarify what parts are needed: Seems just Bilstein 5100’s and the X-ineering Shocksims “half-kit” are the recommended route? Will those shocks work with OEM springs to result in a slight lift?

Alternatively, since this will be a DIY (I will do this same time as rotor and pad replacement) is it more cost effective to just get a full strut assembly (incl springs) rather than take it into a shop for the needed spring compression to keep the OEM springs (I don’t trust rental compressors for HD springs like these)? In that case seems the Monroe 139104 assemblies are good bang for buck.

LAst question: there have been a few comments regarding the Arnott SK3354 built-in computer deceptor. Does this mean you do _not_ need the Shocksims components if you go with the Arnott assemblies?