my 2004 Z71 journal

[cmc76]

Mine laid at flat 0

 

[Tonyrodz]

Go with these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00K...SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=2004+tahoe+key+fob

That's what I got for my 05 denali they work great. And it says it fits an 04 tahoe. Cheap and easy to program

For the fobs, look on the back of your existing one, there'll be numbers on it. That's what you need to know.

 

[HACK BLOCK]

The radio likely has a CD stuck in it. Mine does the exact same. And I know its jammed up. I've been shopping for new.
For the oil. Easiest is the pressure sender. Cheap part. 15 minute fix with the socket and swivel.
The codes. I would have to look. But lean bank is common. And intake gaskets is the common fix.

I've got the same. 04 z71. Minimal issues with 185k on it

anyway to get it out?

 

[HACK BLOCK]

For the fobs, look on the back of your existing one, there'll be numbers on it. That's what you need to know.

the fob I have is blank

 

[HACK BLOCK]

my oil gauge worked only 1 time then stopped

 

[PG01]

my oil gauge worked only 1 time then stopped

I would think thats the gauge then, wouldn’t hurt to do sending unit first though. Easier than pulling the cluster imo

 

[Chubbs]

Lhj011 that's it. The key is not chipped and can be cut anywhere. Fob programming takes 2 minutes in your driveway.

As stated above part number LHJ011 if you do a search. Here is what I bought on eBay; programming instructions included

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Keyless-Entry-Remote-Key-Fob-for-Tahoe-Silverado-Yukon-Sierra-LHJ011-W-Key/132403013148?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I had the key cut at Home Depot for free. Had the remote working in 2-mins. Very cut & dry. GM only used the 1 model fob throughout the NBS years.

Service the transmission first as it is probably still running on the factory-fill. You will need this filter kit:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-OEM-Auto-Trans-Filter-Kit-Fluid-Filter-Kit-ACDELCO-24208576/182979147487?fits=Year:2004|Model:Tahoe&epid=76901215&hash=item2a9a6836df:g:XBkAAOSwcndZtiVf&vxp=mtr

And AC Delco Dexron-6 synthetic TF. 5-Qts for pan drop & refill, more like 12 if you want to do a complete drain & refill via the the cooler pipes. Switching from stock-fill conventional to the synthetic this is advisable. MAY03LT has a DIY video on YouTube, FYI. Can be bought by the gallon on Amazon. Dealer prices by the quart is fair.

Next you will need a new FelPro rear differential gasket (GM 8.5/8.6) and 2-quarts EACH of 75/90 synthetic and 80w conventional. 80w goes in front. You will have a bit leftover which you will use to top-off the rear as it takes a little more than 2. You will need to remove the rear diff cover to drain the old oil out. Clean it up perfect and reinstall with new gasket. Do not use sealer if you aren't educated on it. The excess comes off inside so just use the gasket

Look for any oil leaks on the back half of the transfer case before you drain it. There is a known factory defect of the oil pump cutting through the housing. The oil slowly leaks out and the unit fails catastrophically. If you find the leak above the tailhousing, case has to come out for repair. If it's not leaking you can wait til after the full service list to pull it out. You will need an upgraded "pump rub plate" or similar play on words. The case saver plate has to be installed at some point as the disaster is inevitable. drain the TC and refill it ONLY with GM/Delco AutoTrak2 oil, 2-quarts. NAPA auto usually stocks it or buy at dealer or online.

You will need a grease gun with the standard fitting to grease the dozen or so zerks on the front chassis/steering linkage.

Clean the engine sump so that you can look for leaks. You will want to replace any gaskets when you go to drain it for fresh oil change. Install either NAPA gold or Delco filter and refill with 5w-30 Delco synthetic Dexos, 6-full quarts.

Get a full set of Delco 100k mile iridium spark plugs part# 41-110 and a new set of wires. While gaining access to the S/P it's nearly impossible to remove the original wires without breaking at least 1, and without doubt any or all of them will be compromised after the fact. The wires are brittle if not faulty after 15-years. I regret not replacing them simultaneously with the spark plugs as its a chore getting to half of'em. I got a set of upgraded aftermarket parts on eBay for a low price. Sure enough my 2nd go around with the orig wires exposed their fragility and sickly appearance next to these monsters:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/JDMSPEED-High-Performance-Spark-Plug-Ignition-Wire-For-2000-2009-CHEVY-GMC-V8/282530512356?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

To complete the tune-up just remove the old intake filter, remove the filter box and inspect the gasket material which seats to the vehicle body. If deteriorated find some suitable replacement material at the hardware store that can be used to seal the box back to the chassis upon reinstall. Before reinstalling box/new filter, clean well, remove intake tube & clean throttle body thoroughly, clean MAF sensor with appropriate chemical, then put it all back securely. Replace the $2 PCV filter DS back of engine. You may also replace the oil sensor at this time. BWD lifetime warranty part# s4202 and Lisle special socket to avoid a catastrophe.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...ch/s4202/2610290/2003/gmc/yukon?q=Oil+pressur

You will also need a NAPA gold/silver fuel filter as '04 should be flexfuel vin 'Z'. Replace the original before the fuel pump burns up. It's a PIA removing the original, also requires a Lisle fuel disconnect tool. Most folks can't find a disconnect tool that will fit in the factory location to remove the filter so you have to also disconnect the fuel line further up then cut the filter off with a hacksaw & finally remove the stub end with the tool. Several guys including myself have documented the process on this forum if you do a search.

All of the slack and issues with the steering originates in the linkage after the gearbox (pitman & idler arms, inner/outer tie rods) the 2 coupling shafts between the gearbox & steering column including the bearing are also know defective points of the OEM equipment. Alignment needed after parts replacement on the lower end of linkage. This is the steering shaft bearing responsible for the knocking/creaking/groaning inside the cabin:

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/su.../steering-column-bearing-12541/2003/gmc/yukon

Whenever you replace the brake pads & rotors, replace the flex tubes going to the calipers and flush the system with new brake fluid by extracting most of the old fluid in the reservoir, refill with fresh/new & gravity or suction bleeding the farthest caliper. When it runs clear move to the other 3 in succession. Flush the power steering sooner than later with store brand fluid; if your pump is noisy, add a bottle of Lucas PS Conditioner from AutoZone. Don't use the stop leak or whatever it is, only the conditioner. And not more than 1-bottle. Flush the coolant & backflush the heater core & radiator. Refill per GM spec with distilled water and DexCool. Also a good time to replace thermostat/water pump/etc. don't forget the 2 drive belts. I just noticed that my AC belt looks shoddy as hell. There is a mod for retrofitting a cabin filter if you look it up. It's a must-do!

You will find that I do most of my shopping at Oreillys: they send me $5 OFF coupons regularly & their policies are relaxed if not consumer-friendly. Although it's sometimes convenient to purchase online especially given the competitive pricing and shipped to my door, for those parts needed immediately or for those parts I assume can/will fail, I choose to buy at my nearest NAPA or Oreillys Auto for the convenience of a same-day exchange or replacement. There will be a lot of auto parts for which I choose not to gamble the fit or my satisfaction (ex brake pads, CV axles, any sensor that may affect performance and so on) so I use best judgement on these type of replacement parts and their importance. It also depends on your access to other vehicles and down-time you are comfortable with.

4WD is great & I've always owned 1, even for DD but it's best to do some research and make yourself aware of the strengths & weaknesses for the make which you have. With this model GM, the electrical system used throughout for communication purposes is the weakest link. Once it has some age & miles you really have to double check the switches that you are in 2WD every time you start the truck up. When the encoder begins to fail in the 4WD actuator motor, it can put the TC in 4WD without your selecting it and bad things can happen. There is no illumination or display to signal the truck is in 4 or 2, only the tiny light adjacent the switch which I cannot even see in daylight. The front axle seals stop holding oil and let's all the diff fluid by; front diff needs topping off at least 2x annually. Then there is the pump rub beast.

I had to address a 'service engine' light with EVAP leak codes that I battled for weeks with cheap junkyard parts. I would suggest doing the same thing with even ABS codes as you progress through your pricey service list. This way you run your trials/errors removing parts from Junkers and end up with a stash of backup parts as you diagnose what works, what doesn't work for your fault codes. The thing with diagnostic codes is you jump the gun buying brand new parts that worked for someone else but your particular application with same code requires a different replacement part. This almost always holds true with EVAP & ABS as multiple pieces work together to perform a designated operation

 

[HACK BLOCK]

I would think thats the gauge then, wouldn’t hurt to do sending unit first though. Easier than pulling the cluster imo

I noticed after a cold start the gauge would read a little less than half then slowly work its way down to 0 then stay there

 

[HiHoeSilver]

I noticed after a cold start the gauge would read a little less than half then slowly work its way down to 0 then stay there

Hmmm... Maybe the stepper then. Usually the sender is dead shorted and returning a full 5v, for a needle pegged at 80. Or else locked open/broken wire, for a return of 0v and a needle at 0. I suppose you never know with a sensor... Could be intermittent. If it were me, I'd change it before you yank the cluster so you know whether or not you need to mess with the gauge. Just my .02

 

[drowssap]

How did this thread get this far without pics???











Welcome by the way!