My Boom Box

[BigDaddy13440]

Wo wo woooooo Look at this. Now this gives me more ides on what can fit back there bit smaller though. sweet

Looks a whole lot better once it's carpeted.

Roughly 2.7-2.8 cu ft, 4" diameter port, tuned to roughly 28-30hz. I'd rather give up some maximum output for increased power handling and low-frequency extension, which results from tuning below the vehicle's resonant frequency. I don't have a meter, but my seat-of-my-pants Spidey Sense feels like 33-35hz is the sweet spot - I found a test tone generator online, and swept from 50hz down to 20, and back up a few times. Below about 27hz, things start to get sloppy, but seeing as how I'm not into rebassed rap music, works just fine for me.





Aluminum flashing tape, covering the holes that I sprayed expanding foam into to deaden the quarter panel.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

I'm thinking I may have pushed the subs too hard, these are only rated at 275 rms and 550 peak. IF my amp pushes its rated power, I've been running 500rms to each. Looking for some high-efficiency 10's that can handle 600-1000rms, without breaking the bank. The only subs I've found so far are some Dayton Audio ** 10's, 600rms/1200peak with a sensitivity of 90.5:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-**-dvc-subwoofer--295-463

Assuming all other things being equal, 500rms into these will be comparable to 1000rms into an 87.5 db sensitivity sub, and 2000rms into a 84.5 db sensitivity. It takes double the power to gain 3db, so I'm reverse-engineering that theory.

 

[massivespl]

I wanna show off toooo

 

[massivespl]

I'm thinking I may have pushed the subs too hard, these are only rated at 275 rms and 550 peak. IF my amp pushes its rated power, I've been running 500rms to each. Looking for some high-efficiency 10's that can handle 600-1000rms, without breaking the bank. The only subs I've found so far are some Dayton Audio ** 10's, 600rms/1200peak with a sensitivity of 90.5:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-**-dvc-subwoofer--295-463

Assuming all other things being equal, 500rms into these will be comparable to 1000rms into an 87.5 db sensitivity sub, and 2000rms into a 84.5 db sensitivity. It takes double the power to gain 3db, so I'm reverse-engineering that theory.

That’s Dayton is a decent woofer...
What happens 99% of the time is you over work your amp and send a clipped signal and burn up your woofer... when a amp says 500watts at 1ohm, it doesn’t mean it will be pushing 500watts all the time. When playing music the ohm load fluctuates so much and most will be in the 4-6ohm... so most people think there 500watts amp blew there 500watts speakers but really clipping did... it’s better to have a wayyy bigger amp and have clean power

 

[OB 04Denali]

Looks a whole lot better once it's carpeted.

Roughly 2.7-2.8 cu ft, 4" diameter port, tuned to roughly 28-30hz. I'd rather give up some maximum output for increased power handling and low-frequency extension, which results from tuning below the vehicle's resonant frequency. I don't have a meter, but my seat-of-my-pants Spidey Sense feels like 33-35hz is the sweet spot - I found a test tone generator online, and swept from 50hz down to 20, and back up a few times. Below about 27hz, things start to get sloppy, but seeing as how I'm not into rebassed rap music, works just fine for me.

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View attachment 196965

Aluminum flashing tape, covering the holes that I sprayed expanding foam into to deaden the quarter panel.

View attachment 196964

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View attachment 196966

Defeinitly does. how did you mount the subs? just another panel under the cover ?

 

[OB 04Denali]

That’s Dayton is a decent woofer...
What happens 99% of the time is you over work your amp and send a clipped signal and burn up your woofer... when a amp says 500watts at 1ohm, it doesn’t mean it will be pushing 500watts all the time. When playing music the ohm load fluctuates so much and most will be in the 4-6ohm... so most people think there 500watts amp blew there 500watts speakers but really clipping did... it’s better to have a wayyy bigger amp and have clean power

Question now is, i have everything electricly hooked up already. the 5th channel on the PDX-V9 i have left 500W RMS, open for the rear sub or subs. just going to SQ not crazy blast my face off. should i go with 2 10inch, 2 8inches? 1 10 considering i do something like your set up and remove that panel all together

 

[massivespl]

I'm thinking I may have pushed the subs too hard, these are only rated at 275 rms and 550 peak. IF my amp pushes its rated power, I've been running 500rms to each. Looking for some high-efficiency 10's that can handle 600-1000rms, without breaking the bank. The only subs I've found so far are some Dayton Audio ** 10's, 600rms/1200peak with a sensitivity of 90.5:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-**-dvc-subwoofer--295-463

Assuming all other things being equal, 500rms into these will be comparable to 1000rms into an 87.5 db sensitivity sub, and 2000rms into a 84.5 db sensitivity. It takes double the power to gain 3db, so I'm reverse-engineering that theory.

http://www.caraudiobargain.com/b-stock-sundown-audio-sa-10-600w-sa-series/

This is a good woofer around the same price as the Dayton

 

[M1Gunner]

I wanna show off toooo

Damn, that hoe’s ass be bangin!

 

[BigDaddy13440]

Defeinitly does. how did you mount the subs? just another panel under the cover ?

I made a recessed panel to mount them on, it's in about 2" from the grille. The grill itself has flanges on each of the four sides, it can be press-fit into place, it's that snug. But I have some pan head cabinet screws holding it on anyway. I planned ahead, and allowed for some subs with more excursion. I can probably get subs with over 2" of peak-to-peak excursion, and still be more than 1/4" from the grille.

Everything was made out of Lowe's "blonde" plywood, it's 7 ply, finished on both sides - basically it's cabinet grade. As I don't have any extremely large panels (the top is the biggest, at 49" by 9") without reinforcements, I wasn't concerned with panels flexing. And, as I don't intend on running massive amounts of power (my current 1000 watts is just fine, might run 1500 when I upgrade subs), I didn't feel the need for a double baffle. If I have some port turbulence, I can always enlarge the port to 6", which will make me go with a longer port, and reduce enclosure volume. That will also allow me to handle a bit more power safely.

 

[BigDaddy13440]

http://www.caraudiobargain.com/b-stock-sundown-audio-sa-10-600w-sa-series/

This is a good woofer around the same price as the Dayton

I know Sundown makes excellent gear, both amps and speakers.
But, checking here:
http://sundownaudio.com/index.php/subwoofers/sa-series

I saw that the sensitivity is only 81.0 and 81.6 for the dual 2 and dual 4 10's respectively.
Taking that into consideration, and again, all other things being equal and seeing a gain of 3db for each doubling of power, I'd have to run 8X the power to the SA10's as to the Dayton's. If I can run 600rms all day long to the Dayton's, I'd have to step up to Sundown Team Series to be able to run 4800rms. And since they don't offer a 10", I'd have to "step down" to the Nightshades. And even then, they wouldn't fit in my enclosure, I've got about 6 1/2" of depth to work with.
I'm trying to be as efficient as possible, both with sound output, and with my XL's electrical. I swapped in a 253 amp alt from a 3500 series pickup (direct swap, only $118 on eBay), and have wire to do a dual run of 1/0, the Big 4, and dual batteries under the hood. I certainly won't have to add another battery in the rear, nor would I have space. My amp(s) are/will be mounted under the second row seats, as is a DC-to-AC converter for my battery chargers (drills and other cordless tools).