My Project Tahoe

[MassHoe04]

I was active in a Jeep forum over the previous three years, going from an 05 Wrangler Rubicon to my current 04 Tahoe Z71... There was constant chatter about "Death Wobble" on there and people having to change underwear as a result.

In a lot of those cases with the Jeeps, the main causes came back to either: 1) Bad Track Bar (worn bushings, missing bushings, or damaged bar) or worn drag bar connections between the pitman arm and the tie rod.

Driving slow, things would be fine. Hit a bump or road defect at a certain speed, then all hell breaks loose with the steering wheel shaking side to side until you slow down or come to complete stop.

Issue with the Jeeps that were lifted seemed to amplify the problem of the worn or damaged parts by changing the alignments of things like the track bar, tie rod and drag link.

Our trucks don't have live axles using a track bar to keep it centered. But, maybe you do have something going on in the front end that is amplifying a reaction to worn or damaged parts that are now in an alignment that is out of normal factory specifications.

The drop may be pointing to something else needing attention.

I'll be interested to see what you find out! Keep us posted.

 

[Rocket Man]

Hope you get that wobble figured out. When I dropped mine 2/4 I went with Belltech stuff and it drives straight as an arrow. I’m using Belltech shocks in the front and Arnott air springs in the rear to maintain self leveling for towing. Mine has the Z55 RPO though. For your ZW7 RPO you’ll need the correct premium smooth ride shocks which are expensive as hell or possibly you can run Bilsteins but either way the springs probably need to be different. I would check to see if Bliistein has lowering springs that work with the ZW7. Also, it’s important to use shock extenders which increase the distance between the shock mounts to make up for the lowering or else your shocks bottom out. I’m not a fan of Crown Suspension myself but others have had good success with it. I’d say those rear springs you have aren’t right for your truck though.

 

[SSpinball]

bouncing is shocks, or lack of good shocks.

 

[RAMurphy]

Yes, in replacing the ZW7 RPO premium smooth ride shocks the right springs are critical.

 

[DadsToy]

So have new shocks on order and should be here today. So just in time for a good weekend project and another good work out. Will see if the shocks improve the ride. I have no doubt that is the issue. But I think the rear springs are not strong enough. I would be better off cutting the original springs down. I have shock extenders on already. I also increase the air pressure in the bags. That help, but it raised the height up. Will be good for the tow. Another issue is still the front steering. After the alignment done and have been driving for awhile. Things have settled in. Now its gone loose again. So tighten up the steering box some. That help. Its the play in the steering wheel is the issue. So dumb me I didn't replace the center drag link. That's next on the list. Then everything will be new.
Also found out I don't have heat. No air coming out of the floor. So figure its the blend door actuator motor not working. Should be an easy fix.

 

[DadsToy]

Was a pretty day so took on the project of installing my New shocks. Got a good work out and only took about 1 1/2 hours. Installed KYB Mono-Max shocks. I have to say it improved the handling quit a bit. When you turn into a corner it doesn't lean and doesn't stay in the corner. Levels out as soon as you go straight. Added about 16 lbs to the bags. I think I might have a leak. With air in the bags it raises up the back about 2". But once you put a load on the back it levels out where its supposed to go. I had to move my Daughter into her new house today. Was a good test to see how it performed. You can really load up the back with a lot of weight!! Without the back weighed down. It has a bounce. Believe that is the cause of the new springs. The old shocks where bad. I could push them down with no or little resistance. The front ones you could push in and wouldn't recoil back. Also the rubber bushings were wasted. Only concern with the KYB shocks is they didn't take the metal insert on the front shocks that the original ones had. But the new rubbers fit into the mounting holes just fine. So in short looks like I fix part of my issue. Adjust the air in the bags so they don't bounce,8lbs. Still have the issue with the front steering loose. Progress is always good.

 

[Rocket Man]

Was a pretty day so took on the project of installing my New shocks. Got a good work out and only took about 1 1/2 hours. Installed KYB Mono-Max shocks. I have to say it improved the handling quit a bit. When you turn into a corner it doesn't lean and doesn't stay in the corner. Levels out as soon as you go straight. Added about 16 lbs to the bags. I think I might have a leak. With air in the bags it raises up the back about 2". But once you put a load on the back it levels out where its supposed to go. I had to move my Daughter into her new house today. Was a good test to see how it performed. You can really load up the back with a lot of weight!! Without the back weighed down. It has a bounce. Believe that is the cause of the new springs. The old shocks where bad. I could push them down with no or little resistance. The front ones you could push in and wouldn't recoil back. Also the rubber bushings were wasted. Only concern with the KYB shocks is they didn't take the metal insert on the front shocks that the original ones had. But the new rubbers fit into the mounting holes just fine. So in short looks like I fix part of my issue. Adjust the air in the bags so they don't bounce,8lbs. Still have the issue with the front steering loose. Progress is always good.
View attachment 386072

Any reason you didn’t go with the Bilsteins recommended by a few of us?

 

[DadsToy]

Any reason you didn’t go with the Bilsteins recommended by a few of us?

Yes, Couple of reasons. One was price. This is a budget build and trying to get the most done with what little money I can get by with. Save over $100 by not going with Bilsteins. I compared both shocks and they seemed to be the same. Remember I am going to be towing. The Mono-Max shocks are designed for trucks and heavy loads. And Vehicles that weigh more and have a bigger foot print. Plus they are rated for off road. So when I am towing the camper over gravel roads they self adjust for a smooth ride. So far they are performing as designed. It takes corners really good and rebounds / recover great. Step in the right direction....lol

 

[Rocket Man]

Yes, Couple of reasons. One was price. This is a budget build and trying to get the most done with what little money I can get by with. Save over $100 by not going with Bilsteins. I compared both shocks and they seemed to be the same. Remember I am going to be towing. The Mono-Max shocks are designed for trucks and heavy loads. And Vehicles that weigh more and have a bigger foot print. Plus they are rated for off road. So when I am towing the camper over gravel roads they self adjust for a smooth ride. So far they are performing as designed. It takes corners really good and rebounds / recover great. Step in the right direction....lol

Fair enough. The Bilsteins work great for towing too especially when combined with helper bags like you have but I totally understand the cost decision. Are you still looking at getting different springs?

 

[DadsToy]

Fair enough. The Bilsteins work great for towing too especially when combined with helper bags like you have but I totally understand the cost decision. Are you still looking at getting different springs?

Haven't decided about getting different springs just yet. If I do, I don't know which ones to get. Everyone said the bilsteins are softer. I don't need softer. Worst case would be take the originals and cut them down.