My Project Tahoe

[Rocket Man]

Thanks so much for the link. The price of just those springs is the total price of my Crown kit with the drop spindles...lol Would like to get them and try them out. But what to do with the other ones. Plus I have my air bag system in the springs. Be a challenge to get them out out of the springs.

It’s called metal recycling lol- those Crown springs aren’t worth much but you might be able to sell them here in the classifieds after you get enough posts. Looks like you’re almost there. And the bags come out just like they went in- deflated. Sounds like you’re going to settle with what you’ve got though. Good luck, hope it works out for you. There’s a few things I wouldn’t try to go cheap on, steering and suspension are two of them. I need my big old SUV to handle and stop as good as it can. It can be dangerous in the wrong situation where I need it to respond fast if it doesn’t.

 

[DadsToy]

It’s called metal recycling lol- those Crown springs aren’t worth much but you might be able to sell them here in the classifieds after you get enough posts. Looks like you’re almost there. And the bags come out just like they went in- deflated. Sounds like you’re going to settle with what you’ve got though. Good luck, hope it works out for you. There’s a few things I wouldn’t try to go cheap on, steering and suspension are two of them. I need my big old SUV to handle and stop as good as it can. It can be dangerous in the wrong situation where I need it to respond fast if it doesn’t.

I will agree with you on the safety on the steering and suspension. I want it to perform and drive safe. I notice the Belltech springs are coiled in the right way. Where the coils on the bottom are tighter together than the top. That would eliminate the bounce. The Crown springs are not designed that way and are straight coils. As far as removing the air bags from the springs. I am going to try a little trick . Going to soak them in warm water. That will soften the bag just enough so I can bend them out of the spring. It was really tough getting them in. And of course deflate them just like I installed them. I like the bags and do help out with towing heavy loads so far. So hope I can save them.

 

[Rocket Man]

I will agree with you on the safety on the steering and suspension. I want it to perform and drive safe. I notice the Belltech springs are coiled in the right way. Where the coils on the bottom are tighter together than the top. That would eliminate the bounce. The Crown springs are not designed that way and are straight coils. As far as removing the air bags from the springs. I am going to try a little trick . Going to soak them in warm water. That will soften the bag just enough so I can bend them out of the spring. It was really tough getting them in. And of course deflate them just like I installed them. I like the bags and do help out with towing heavy loads so far. So hope I can save them.

Maybe add dish soap to the warm water so they slip out easier? Anytime I’m trying to get rubber parts on or off I use Dawn and it works pretty good.

 

[DadsToy]

Its been awhile and have been driving the Tahoe some more. Seems things are settling into place. Wanted to make sure I was right about things before throwing more parts at her. The death wobble is gone. The shocks cured it. The only issue is the slop in the steering wheel. I am pretty sure its the steering gear box is worn out. Tried adjusting it. Seemed to help some. But I believe the worm gear is to far gone and won't adjust... Time to shop for a new one.
In the mean time was able to get heat back into the car. The Mode Door Actuator had a broken gear and cause the baffle doors not to move. Was able to source one from Amazon for $18. If you replace one of these. Make sure you buy the one with the metal shaft. Man what a pain in the neck to replace. Easy part is pulling the old one out. Hard part is putting the new one in. Trick is to install the gear first then the motor. Also note; after you install the new motor, DON'T connect the wire connector to the actuator. First turn on the air and see where the air is blowing in from. Mine was set for the floor. After you found out where its blowing from turn the key to off. Then set your selector switch to where its blowing out of. Like mine the floor. Then plug in the power connector in. This way the actuator will be timed in the right spot.
This job was a challenge for me. You see.... I have Glaucoma and its very hard to see up in those tight spaces. And bifocal lens don't help matters either. Plus I have no disk in parts of my spine. All from injuries from being in the Marine Corps. You know, blown up, shot up, gone down twice in the helo, fell out on one; that's another story. So this build in a way is my therapy car. Keeps me moving. Just hoping I can get it done before my eyes give out and things go dark on me.
Here some pictures in hopes it might help someone that might be doing a Mode Door replacement. Cheers.

Old part with part number. Use this to search for a replacement.

New part. Note metal center shaft.

Old part with broken gear. Might see if I can J/B weld it back and keep it as a spare part. You never know...

This is the gear mounted back into place. Must do this first, then install the motor. After installing made sure it move freely to insure the baffle doors operator right. I cleaned the old grease off and used new lithium white grease. It helps to remove the one screw holding the lower duct and push it to the passenger side of the car. Adds just a little more room to work. This actuator is located on the drivers side next to the accelerator pedal. Now that is done. Time to take drugs...My neck and back is killing me.

 

[Rocket Man]

Good to hear things seem to be working out.

 

[DadsToy]

Haven't been able to do a whole lot of work on the Hoe. With Holidays and the cold weather setting in. So just finish installing the tow brake assist. Was the easiest project I had to do yet. Seems the car is already wired. All I had to do was plug in the adapter wire kit and plug into the module. Done. This is located on the left drivers kick panel. Have to remove the plastic cover to get access to the panel.

Red arrow shows where to plug in the Wire kit.

Used super strong velco instead of screwing it to the center console. Location works prefect. In reach and plan sight. I can still use the power outlets behind it.

 

[DadsToy]

Another easy project was to replace all the interior lights to LED bulbs. What an improvement over the stock bulbs. Oh and let me tell you. The back cargo light bulbs get really HOT. Went to remove it with my fingers and burnt the crud out of them. Had to use pliers to pull them out. Much brighter and uses less energy. Even did the glove box light too. Took some night shots which were taken without a flash. I just need to replace the outside marker lights and upgrade the headlights next.

 

[DadsToy]

I wasn't going to originally fix this issue. But it came down to a safety issue. I couldn't get the washer fluid pump to work. I replaced the tank and pump (PPL $11) thinking that was the issue. The old tank was pretty trash from battery acid etc.... Still wouldn't work. By accident I got it to work. You have to turn the left turn signal on and then push the washer leveler forward. Pump work. Crazy. Thought i would just leave it. But what if someone else drove it. OR people behind me see my left signal come on thinking I am going to turn and I am not. Just cleaning my windshield. So amazon supplied me with a new multi-function switch, $42. Took me a couple of hours to replace it. Had to remove the lower kick panel. Then the crash shield, just to gain access to the multi wire connection on the column. Two of the connections where pretty tricky to get to. Problem fix with the new one installed. Everything works and the turn signal is solid. NO sloppy controls. And it looks great like a new car.

This is what I am was working on. The old switch with the covers removed. The covers just pop off. You have to pull the tilt lever out first.

Have to remove the safety shield first to gain access to the connectors. There are 4 bolts (red circles) you have to remove. The left green arrow is the multi wire connection. Have to unbolt it. Its the only way these come out. Best to disconnect the battery before doing this. The right green arrow is a connection you have to remove. Very hard to get to.There is a safety lock you have to remove, then the connector will come out.

New switch installed. There are only 2 -25trox bit screws that you have to remove. One at the top and one on the bottom front. Hardest part is getting the wiring removed and putting all the plastic stuff back. Another back crawling, finger cramping project. Now everything works like it is suppose to.

 

[Rocket Man]

I wasn't going to originally fix this issue. But it came down to a safety issue. I couldn't get the washer fluid pump to work. I replaced the tank and pump (PPL $11) thinking that was the issue. The old tank was pretty trash from battery acid etc.... Still wouldn't work. By accident I got it to work. You have to turn the left turn signal on and then push the washer leveler forward. Pump work. Crazy. Thought i would just leave it. But what if someone else drove it. OR people behind me see my left signal come on thinking I am going to turn and I am not. Just cleaning my windshield. So amazon supplied me with a new multi-function switch, $42. Took me a couple of hours to replace it. Had to remove the lower kick panel. Then the crash shield, just to gain access to the multi wire connection on the column. Two of the connections where pretty tricky to get to. Problem fix with the new one installed. Everything works and the turn signal is solid. NO sloppy controls. And it looks great like a new car.
View attachment 388928
This is what I am was working on. The old switch with the covers removed. The covers just pop off. You have to pull the tilt lever out first.
View attachment 388929
Have to remove the safety shield first to gain access to the connectors. There are 4 bolts (red circles) you have to remove. The left green arrow is the multi wire connection. Have to unbolt it. Its the only way these come out. Best to disconnect the battery before doing this. The right green arrow is a connection you have to remove. Very hard to get to.There is a safety lock you have to remove, then the connector will come out.
View attachment 388930
New switch installed. There are only 2 -25trox bit screws that you have to remove. One at the top and one on the bottom front. Hardest part is getting the wiring removed and putting all the plastic stuff back. Another back crawling, finger cramping project. Now everything works like it is suppose to.

Thanks for the write up on this. I keep thinking one day I’ll have to replace mine on my 02 and I go have a look at an OEM one only to see it’s $300 and I once again decide if it ain’t broke…I usually replace items for preventive maintenance but sometimes the part is too expensive so I don’t. It’s good to see it’s not that hard to do- it gives me options in my mind if I would possibly go with an aftermarket one.

 

[DadsToy]

Thanks for the write up on this. I keep thinking one day I’ll have to replace mine on my 02 and I go have a look at an OEM one only to see it’s $300 and I once again decide if it ain’t broke…I usually replace items for preventive maintenance but sometimes the part is too expensive so I don’t. It’s good to see it’s not that hard to do- it gives me options in my mind if I would possibly go with an aftermarket one.

I am the same way. That's why I really wasn't going to do the project. Cause in a way it was working. Thought it was going to cost a lot. But for less than $50 for an aftermarket one isn't bad. I spend more eating out than the cost of that part. Which brings me to my next quest. The power steering gear box. Been debating on whether to buy a manufacturer unit or pull one at the PPL. New it cost over $600, reman cost around $300. Going to the PPL cost is $80. Thought is to pull one for $80 see if the problem is fix. Then a little later to install a new unit after the elections.
If you do this mulit-function switch. Have patients. I was at a point where I wanted it just done and I couldn't reach or get to the connectors. Lucky me I have surgical tools that help reach back to the connectors. I used to work as a Bio Medical engineer. So got the old surgical scissors etc. that they through away. Easier way would have been splicing the wires. Which I am against that kind of work. Would have been another point of failure.