NBS replacement Fob/Remote Access

[Chubbs]

LHJ011 model# keyless entry remote. The Yukon that I bought back in April came with only 1 of the original remotes & single ignition key. I've been meaning to buy a 2nd setup for my spouse & emergencies & finally got it on eBay yesterday. My neighbor was knocking on my door Thurs night asking me for help breaking into his car as he locked the only key inside & that was the kick in the a$$ I needed to finally make my $12 play

There was a thread not too long ago & several people said that when the new fob is programmed, the original will no longer communicate. Something about both needing to be reprogrammed simultaneously. Does this hold true, or have any of you personally had any luck with the original fob remaining functional without tampering the factory programming in any way? Seems like the perfect way to get yourself in a jamb if you know what I mean.

Does WalMart & Home Depot cut car keys? If I was running a business I'd be asking for ID & registration but I don't know how that all works. Thinking the last time I needed to make a duplicate I cut the blank myself.

This is the purchase I made & instructions in 1 of the item photos that explains toward the end to repeat the programming steps for any remaining and/or original fob remotes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/132403013148

 

[adventurenali92]

LHJ011 model# keyless entry remote. The Yukon that I bought back in April came with only 1 of the original remotes & single ignition key. I've been meaning to buy a 2nd setup for my spouse & emergencies & finally got it on eBay yesterday. My neighbor was knocking on my door Thurs night asking me for help breaking into his car as he locked the only key inside & that was the kick in the a$$ I needed to finally make my $12 play

There was a thread not too long ago & several people said that when the new fob is programmed, the original will no longer communicate. Something about both needing to be reprogrammed simultaneously. Does this hold true, or have any of you personally had any luck with the original fob remaining functional without tampering the factory programming in any way? Seems like the perfect way to get yourself in a jamb if you know what I mean.

Does WalMart & Home Depot cut car keys? If I was running a business I'd be asking for ID & registration but I don't know how that all works. Thinking the last time I needed to make a duplicate I cut the blank myself.

This is the purchase I made & instructions in 1 of the item photos that explains toward the end to repeat the programming steps for any remaining and/or original fob remotes.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/132403013148

Your first question is correct. The original fob will not work unless you do the programming steps with both the original fob and the replacement at the same time. I had to by a replacement keyfob as the only one that came with my 2006, the unlock button stopped working. I ordered a replacement on eBay and programmed it in my truck. The original one does not function with my truck now as I didn’t program it with the other one. It does nothing now. Which isn’t a big deal for me since the unlock button stopped working. I do need to order another one and then program both so I have two sets of keys and fobs.....
As to your second question, I think that the hardware stores can cut a key to match the grooves of your factory key. However it may not start your truck. Luckily I have 2 physical keys to my Denali. However when I had my previous 2001 Durango limited, it only had one key. I had a second made at my local hardware store, but because it had the factory resistor in the key itself, it would unlock my doors, but it wouldn’t start the vehicle because it didn’t have the resistor that matched the one in the ignition. I’m not sure if GM’s NBS trucks are the same way but I would think that it has a similar setup, being that a lot of vehicles in the 2000s and up are setup similar. My mom had a 2002 and a 2003 Montero limited and both were the exact same way. Only the dealer could program the actual key itself to the vehicles ignition to work properly.
You can probably get a replacement key online, and then have it cut and programmed at the dealer to be able to start your truck. But I’m not sure if just having it cut at a hardware store would work to run your truck. But like I said I could be wrong on that as I don’t know that particular part of GM, and I haven’t had to buy a second physical key.

 

[Chubbs]

@Bigbeardenali1992

There isn't anything obvious located on the Durango key to distinguish it from the GM?

I will go back & do research on that part as I didn't recognize mention of any such thing while shopping or I would have taken that into consideration. Good heads-up

Update per item descrp'
programmed by a dealer or locksmith. Please verify your FCC# LHJ011. Item is self programmable if it is not an Equinox or Vue. DIY instructions are in the images. Item includes a new uncut GM logo key. Just get the key cut to match your existing key , no programming necessary for the ignition key.”

 

[HiHoeSilver]

@Bigbeardenali1992

There isn't anything obvious located on the Durango key to distinguish it from the GM?

I will go back & do research on that part as I didn't recognize mention of any such thing while shopping or I would have taken that into consideration. Good heads-up

Update per item descrp'
programmed by a dealer or locksmith. Please verify your FCC# LHJ011. Item is self programmable if it is not an Equinox or Vue. DIY instructions are in the images. Item includes a new uncut GM logo key. Just get the key cut to match your existing key , no programming necessary for the ignition key.”

I forget the year of your truck (you should put it on your sig), but chipped keys started halfway through 2006. My recommendation is to have the dealer do it either way. Mine was $8. As for the remote, you need to do them both in one learn mode session. The whole process took me about 4 minutes.

 

[PG01]

Yesah what he said no chip before 06...program both at once.... gtg

 

[Chubbs]

Appreciate it.

Have any of you added a steering stabilizer? The steering in my truck has gotten super-sketchy & I'm not seeing any obvious failures or faulty joints. I installed bigger tires back in August & it drove fine before & even a while after the upgrade. Unless the idler assembly is compromised within the housing where a fault would be hidden, or in the gearbox -- same dilemma, I just haven't found anything that warrants replacement. I lay under the truck looking & feeling for distortion while a 2nd person spins the steering wheel. On several occasions. Same with intermediate shafts between the firewall to the gear box. Can the support bearing of the intermediate shaft behind the kick panel cause bigger problems than a simple clunking noise? I'm paranoid something will let go while I'm driving 50-mph in traffic & just take everybody out. But like I said I'm just not seeing anything obvious but something is definitely off.

 

[adventurenali92]

I forget the year of your truck (you should put it on your sig), but chipped keys started halfway through 2006. My recommendation is to have the dealer do it either way. Mine was $8. As for the remote, you need to do them both in one learn mode session. The whole process took me about 4 minutes.

Interesting. I wonder if my ignition key has a chip or not. My truck was built August of 2005, so build wise it’s a 2005 but technically it’s titled a 2006 haha. Wonder when they actually changed to the chip in the 2006s.

 

[PG01]

Appreciate it.

Have any of you added a steering stabilizer? The steering in my truck has gotten super-sketchy & I'm not seeing any obvious failures or faulty joints. I installed bigger tires back in August & it drove fine before & even a while after the upgrade. Unless the idler assembly is compromised within the housing where a fault would be hidden, or in the gearbox -- same dilemma, I just haven't found anything that warrants replacement. I lay under the truck looking & feeling for distortion while a 2nd person spins the steering wheel. On several occasions. Same with intermediate shafts between the firewall to the gear box. Can the support bearing of the intermediate shaft behind the kick panel cause bigger problems than a simple clunking noise? I'm paranoid something will let go while I'm driving 50-mph in traffic & just take everybody out. But like I said I'm just not seeing anything obvious but something is definitely off.

You mean play? Like turn wheel and no movement in wheels? Or just all over the place? There was a thread about tightening up the steering box on nbs, i think...ill see if i can find it and @Rocket Man has a stabilizer.... apparently they dont make one for nbs but what tgey do make fits with a tiny mod... i think drilling 1 extra hole in the bracket..

 

[Rocket Man]

The KYB SS15326 steering stabilizer works, even though it says it's only for a 2500. Just follow the regular install instructions. You just have to drill 1 bolt hole but I believe that's shown in the instructions anyway.

 

[Chubbs]

When I'm cruising in my truck, I'm holding the steering wheel either pointed at 11:00 to keep it straight, or the opposite at 1:00 oclock. The s/w is clocked appropriate to the linkage which would be straight ahead 12:00 o'clock but it seems a dead spot has developed. Usually that's because a tie-Rod end or idler is faulty in the ball joint but I don't see anything that's cause for concern: definitely not anything worth $200 investment just to see if it helps.

The workshop manuals also call for a steering stabilizer on the MYs with diagnosis & replacement instructions but my truck doesn't have 1, so that's not the problem either.