Need help with 2010 Hybrid Escalade

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BG1988

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That duralast gold that I purchased a year ago was faulty. I replaced it under warranty for new one. It's holding charge steady. No self discharge. 12.6 on new battery. I tested cranking, and charging so far 14.6 and steady. So I doubt that is the bad battery. My module is faulty. I had a big hope for battery but unfortunately that is not it. I will try to obtain negative terminal from Rock Auto and try to replace it. So far I get too deep in this truck so probably I would be able to remove bumper and unbolt that connector. Only thing I haven't tried, is to simulate frame to body connection. If negative terminal is bad so I have 2 bad connections on engine block and frame. I will try to thow a wire to a frame and directly to negative terminal. We'll see.
take some photos of you replacing it I need to do mine my self but i'm clueless as to where the tiny wire goes.. i know it goes under radiator somewhere
 

j91z28d1

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take some photos of you replacing it I need to do mine my self but i'm clueless as to where the tiny wire goes.. i know it goes under radiator somewhere


I think you're looking for g103 on this?

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makintoshnex

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Ok. Ok. Houston, we have a problem. Yesterday was pretty rainy and heavy winds. I have a huge gap in hood. So wind blew under one direction. Got flooded fuse box. Upon inspection I found some bad relays . Pretty corroded. I doubt that it happened only for one night. I already ordered 5 of them from Rock Auto. Unfortunately I can't find where to get that negative battery cable. I don't have part number for it. I know it it mounts somewhere under front left or right tow hook. I assume that is for frame connection. As far as I get it. One line goes to engine, which goes to cabin by connecting block to firewall through that mash cable, that negative thin cable goes to a frame and should mount at tow hook . I can simulate frame to block connection simply by taping into a frame, I got some terminals and will try to do something. But that is going to be next week. I been into few dealerships, well prices and rates are bad, pretty bad . New Toyota crown which I like is 40k and it's rated is 5%, used Highlander 2018 with 65k miles 27k and rates at 10%.that nuts. I need to fix this Cadillac ASAP, and try to make it on budget.
 

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j91z28d1

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feels like you're on to something.

I believe if you lift the 2 gray levers on the fuse box, the top will come off, and you can clean everything with some contact cleaner and a soft wire brush. might even unbolt the whole thing and look at the under side too.


for the ground cable, probably have to take the battery out and maybe some plastic panels, to find that G101 ground. like maybe the inner fender liner? I had to do that to get to my fog lights. my software just says lower left front of engine compartment. looks like on the diagram that it's also a ground point for a few other things too, so it's probably worth cleaning, even thou it feels like your fuse box getting wet might be the main issue.

on a side note, I was looking around the other night in my scanner options and saw a window calibration option. I had always wondered why your scanner was showing a window lost cal fault. I didn't even know that was possible ha. but I guess it's a thing.
 

j91z28d1

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the ac Delco web site lists this for your Cady. I'm not sure it looks right and man it's expensive. you might have to stop by a dealership parts department to look it up forsure.

 
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makintoshnex

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the ac Delco web site lists this for your Cady. I'm not sure it looks right and man it's expensive. you might have to stop by a dealership parts department to look it up forsure.

I don't think that thing is right part. Doesn't look like mine .
But good tips and few minutes on Googling gave me this.
Limited-time deal: GM 92247215 Black Door Window Switch https://a.co/d/0qWGkEn
100$ that's 3 times cheaper than on official site
Also found on Rock Auto same item.
I can make a bet if I go to eBay I would get it even cheaper. For me the really cheapest way is to make my own. I have some C terminals and also I have 6 AWG wire, I can get 2 and 4 at work. Battery terminals I can scrap from existing. Probably make my own would be better option because I would be able to tap in directly into metal, I can apply some Zink from Zink batteries so place would not be corroded anymore.
 

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makintoshnex

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feels like you're on to something.

I believe if you lift the 2 gray levers on the fuse box, the top will come off, and you can clean everything with some contact cleaner and a soft wire brush. might even unbolt the whole thing and look at the under side too.


for the ground cable, probably have to take the battery out and maybe some plastic panels, to find that G101 ground. like maybe the inner fender liner? I had to do that to get to my fog lights. my software just says lower left front of engine compartment. looks like on the diagram that it's also a ground point for a few other things too, so it's probably worth cleaning, even thou it feels like your fuse box getting wet might be the main issue.

on a side note, I was looking around the other night in my scanner options and saw a window calibration option. I had always wondered why your scanner was showing a window lost cal fault. I didn't even know that was possible ha. but I guess it's a thing.
I could find that calibration thing. Probably I need another scanner.
 

j91z28d1

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I could find that calibration thing. Probably I need another scanner.


since you're kinda stuck with it and this deep. I feel like it might be time to get a cheap clone tech 2 and access to a full shop manual. something like alldata will have all the trouble shooting trees for every fault code. all the wiring diagrama and an explanation of how each system works and is trouble shoot.

it's like 19$ a month for access for one personal vehicle. kinda stuff shops use, but pay $1000s for unlimited access. it's really worth having for things like this.


 

BG1988

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Ok. Ok. Houston, we have a problem. Yesterday was pretty rainy and heavy winds. I have a huge gap in hood. So wind blew under one direction. Got flooded fuse box. Upon inspection I found some bad relays . Pretty corroded. I doubt that it happened only for one night. I already ordered 5 of them from Rock Auto. Unfortunately I can't find where to get that negative battery cable. I don't have part number for it. I know it it mounts somewhere under front left or right tow hook. I assume that is for frame connection. As far as I get it. One line goes to engine, which goes to cabin by connecting block to firewall through that mash cable, that negative thin cable goes to a frame and should mount at tow hook . I can simulate frame to block connection simply by taping into a frame, I got some terminals and will try to do something. But that is going to be next week. I been into few dealerships, well prices and rates are bad, pretty bad . New Toyota crown which I like is 40k and it's rated is 5%, used Highlander 2018 with 65k miles 27k and rates at 10%.that nuts. I need to fix this Cadillac ASAP, and try to make it on budget.
i'll get you the part number from my cable
 

BG1988

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I don't think that thing is right part. Doesn't look like mine .
But good tips and few minutes on Googling gave me this.
Limited-time deal: GM 92247215 Black Door Window Switch https://a.co/d/0qWGkEn
100$ that's 3 times cheaper than on official site
Also found on Rock Auto same item.
I can make a bet if I go to eBay I would get it even cheaper. For me the really cheapest way is to make my own. I have some C terminals and also I have 6 AWG wire, I can get 2 and 4 at work. Battery terminals I can scrap from existing. Probably make my own would be better option because I would be able to tap in directly into metal, I can apply some Zink from Zink batteries so place would not be corroded anymore.
2008-2013 Chevy GMC caddlic hybrid negative battery cable with sensor

https://www.ebay.com/itm/115865012306?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28 ask them for an actual photo first
 

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