Need Opinions on Coolant Hose Replace

[JimmyTwoToes]

Hi all, my 2008 white Tahoe with 160K miles on it started to billow steam from the passenger side of the hood the other day whenever I slowed or stopped. I had a 30 minute drive to work ahead of me and I watched the temp gauge closely. For the first 20 minutes, the truck ran at a perfect 210 degrees, but continued to steam at every traffic light or stop sign. I suspected I was leaking coolant onto the block. Finally, going down the freeway with 10 minutes to go, the gauge started creeping up to 235 degrees and then back down to 210, then back up again. I made it to work and parked it and decided to use my lunch hour to figure out what the hell was going on.

At lunch, I start looking for the leak and as I lifted one hose to look for splits, it literally broke off of its firewall connection in my hand. I was pleased that it was indeed a leak and not a bad water pump, or worse. Long story short, after a couple hours of fighting the quick connect and getting it pulled out by brute force, I cut the metal crimp end of the hose off and used a worm clamp to reattach the hose just to get home so I could replace it properly. The hose was a bit short for this, but I stretched it enough to get it on there and I got home at perfect temp the whole way with no steam.

After I got home, I drove it to AutoZone for the replacement part. From what I could gather, I needed the entire hose from the block to the firewall and it appeared this quick connect was included that attached to the 'T-connector'. I'm not sure of that. At AutoZone, the guy could not find this part I was describing to him in the computer (maybe it doesn't exist?). So I told him to just give me a 3' length of hose so I could replace the short one at least with ample hose.

My question to all of you is do you think this is an adequate replacement for this problem? A new hose with a worm clamp attaching it to the plastic 'nipple' coming out of the T-connector? So far it's held, but it's only been 48 hours.

And for what it's worth, when I ripped the plastic black piece off, the white connector part stayed on the T-connector. I assume I'll have to remove that to put the correct part on, if you all tell me I need to do that.

Thanks for any input in advance and please let me know if you need anymore information.

Just a shout-out to this beast, I've had it for four years and this is only the second problem I've had. It's one of the best vehicles I've ever owed. Only the Throttle-body position sensor replacement that cost me $50 which you can find the thread here somewhere. I fixed that problem cheaply with your help.

 

[sk1dm4rk]

I have not had this specific issue, but this seems like an adequate bush-fix. Just keep your eye on it and hopefully you will be fine.

Those crimps going from rubber to metal hose are known to cause issues elsewhere (read: transmission cooler lines, etc.)

Good luck.

 

[swathdiver]

Is this the part you needed?

https://www.amazon.com/General-Motors-15834773-HOSE-1-240/dp/B00N48XETY

 

[ScottyBoy]

I had the same "T" fittings and quick connect fittings on my 2001 go bad as well. But on mine, the coolant hose quick connect are not molded together as one part. The hose actually fits onto a nipple or barb and then is held on with a hose clamp. The "T" fitting is a quick connect and it connects onto the heater core. Then there is another quick connect fitting that attaches onto the "T" fitting, and that is the one with the nipple/barb that the hose slips onto.

 

[JimmyTwoToes]

swathdiver, the part I need is not branched like that. Both Advance Auto and AutoZone showed me that part.

ScottyBoy, that's the one, except rather than the hose clamp, it had the thick crimped ring I referred to that appears to be part of the hose itself. Where I am now is the black part of the quick connect was brutally separated from the T-fitting the the white clips where you pinch were left behind. I cut the crimp off of the hose and clamped it directly onto the T-fitting essentially leaving out the quick connect portion of the link. Again, rather than a hose clamp you pinch, I used a worm clamp. It's been a week now and everything is holding fine. Perfect 210 temp and no steam.

 

[TURNz]

I had the same thing happen on my Ford Expedition. It has rear heat and both heater hoses were branched to go from rear heat, heater core, and block. Something like $60 each to replace. I bought 20ft of hose and some hose clamps for $25 and rebuilt the whole thing. Held for at least 6k miles. It's still holding, I just don't drive it anymore.