Negative camber only in reverse?

[Colby_e32]

Re-read everything. More questions. did you compare UCA's, measure them? Verify part numbers?
Did you only change lower ball joint or control arm? Change LCA bushings? Bet bushings shot or you are sitting on something too.

i removed the lower arms, bushings are in near perfect condition.

i did compare both new control arms. They are identical to the originals in length, the offset bushings are installed with the offset closest to the engine which makes sense it would push the camber more positive. However it did not help me at all.

only part other than upper control arms was the torsion keys. Ride height is exactly as it was before.

I can post my previous alignment sheet from 2 weeks ago, caster was in spec, camber was LESS. The parts I replaced were NOT worn out. Just did it to “solve” the camber issue.

Now I’m in a pickle for sure. Back to square 1

 

[exp500]

Look at offset ball joints. Superior Parts. Change Upper BJ. The Still changing Ride Height and Camber in reverse REALLY bothers me.... Look again....Might need a helper so you can watch it.In my mind That is the real problem.

 

[Colby_e32]

Look at offset ball joints. Superior Parts. Change Upper BJ. The Still changing Ride Height and Camber in reverse REALLY bothers me.... Look again....Might need a helper so you can watch it.In my mind That is the real problem.

One problem this truck has had for many years is it tends to "hop" or skip while turning full lock. It will always squeal when on smooth pavement doing a sharp turn, especially on fresh parking lots. I spent weeks researching it, most people on this forum found their fix was the center link was "flipped" or oriented wrong. However, mine is correct. Never found a solution to that problem either. I always assumed it was a combination of the negative camber/caster issues when turning the wheels are at a weird angle.

I will re-evaluate this problem this weekend. I found the belltech cam kit to be considered an option, but dont really feel as if it will solve these problems

https://www.belltech.com/extras/docs/BBGC/4951.pdf

 

[exp500]

Have you tried putting bar against LCA to check bushings? Or as I suggested earlier- inspect when you back up a foot and it's cambered. Something is moving around.
Cams are 1.5- 2.5 degrees depending which ones you have, seems like you have 2. They are only for alignment but are a give and take with caster. You want to be +- 1or less of where you want to be everywhere before using cams.
You could try calling superior tech line. Maybe they have heard of this.

 

[Colby_e32]

Have you tried putting bar against LCA to check bushings? Or as I suggested earlier- inspect when you back up a foot and it's cambered. Something is moving around.
Cams are 1.5- 2.5 degrees depending which ones you have, seems like you have 2. They are only for alignment but are a give and take with caster. You want to be +- 1or less of where you want to be everywhere before using cams.
You could try calling superior tech line. Maybe they have heard of this.

I’ve had the whole lower control arm off, inspected the bushings. No cracking, looseness or wear.

I’m going to try and make a video in the morning of the suspension as I roll backwards. Hoping to find the answer to my problems soon enough.

I think to get the alignment back into spec I will need the belltech alignment cams, and will have to enlarge the factory slots as their instructions say to do.

 

[exp500]

Use the cams you have. Cut out in the direction you need only. them holes are big already.

 

[Colby_e32]

Use the cams you have. Cut out in the direction you need only. them holes are big already.

The cams are literally maxed out against the little "tab" it will require cams with more travel. I plan to order the belltech cam kit and see how it goes from there.

 

[Loyuko]

The cams are literally maxed out against the little "tab" it will require cams with more travel. I plan to order the belltech cam kit and see how it goes from there.

I know this is an old thread but i'm hoping someone will respond! New to the forum. Just put a 3/5 drop on my 03 Yukon Xl. Having the exact same issue as this. Can you tell me if you ever found what was causing this or how you fixed this? 2"spindles and 1" keys in the front, the issue was so bad with the after market keys I couldn't drive it. The front would lower in reverse to where my tire made contact with the inner fender wall. I had to put the stock keys back in turned down and its atleast driveable. Once in reverse it lowers and cambers like crazy! I have not had the alignment yet as its set for next week. Once you drive forward it straightens back out and the ride height is exactly where I would like. Has a set of 24s with 305/35 tires which measures exactly to how the set of 20s that are currently installed. Thanks for any feed back.

 

[nonickatall]

There can only two reasons for that. Play somewhere in the axle components, like upper control arm, or loose connections.

I can tell you, with my experience at my first alignments of the trucks. I tighten the screws of the upper control where you set caster and camber real tight, but when I go into a full curve, it changed the settings.

I would put a bar in front of and behind the front tires so that they can't move back and forth and then someone should sit in the car and alternately put the forward gear in, then put the reverse in gear, so that you can see where there is movement in the axle . Ideally over a pit. Of course, you should be careful not to get run over.