Never ending debate - best oil weight

[OR VietVet]

Mobil 1 has a 0W-16 that I have used in a 2022 Toyota Prius for my landlords son's oil changes.

 

[PPV_2018]

So lets say my oil pressure is good, you guys think there would be any benefit whatsoever to running 5w40 euro or just run the good ole classic 5w30 . . . ?

typically I only run valvoline full synthetic (though I am not a valvoline loyalist, i open to using any brand tbh) because that’s what i have run for many years, *but* I am interested in trying the R&P. @OR VietVet

 

[fozzi58]

I have a 17 Suburban and have been using the dealer\GM recommended oil since I bought it. I haven't switched to mobile one or anything like that, even though I use Mobile 1 strictly in my TA.

While various name brands of oil, blends, and weights may make a small difference, the INTERVALS between oil changes are going to make more of difference in engine cleanliness, performance, and longevity than any "specially blended" oil.

My truck get an oil change every 3k miles like its religion. All my fluids are changed at "extreme" intervals. Its at 108k miles, 60k of that with a Whipple pushing 8lbs of boost, a Circle D torque converter, and many miles of hard driving and racing...and there isn't a spec of metal in either the oil or trans fluid.

No ticks, no collapsed lifters, no trans shutters. Everything is running in top shape. I truly believe its cause the intervals between fluid changes\maintenance is a lot shorter than the typical owner.

 

[waveryd]

I have a 17 Suburban and have been using the dealer\GM recommended oil since I bought it. I haven't switched to mobile one or anything like that, even though I use Mobile 1 strictly in my TA.

While various name brands of oil, blends, and weights may make a small difference, the INTERVALS between oil changes are going to make more of difference in engine cleanliness, performance, and longevity than any "specially blended" oil.

My truck get an oil change every 3k miles like its religion. All my fluids are changed at "extreme" intervals. Its at 108k miles, 60k of that with a Whipple pushing 8lbs of boost, a Circle D torque converter, and many miles of hard driving and racing...and there isn't a spec of metal in either the oil or trans fluid.

No ticks, no collapsed lifters, no trans shutters. Everything is running in top shape. I truly believe its cause the intervals between fluid changes\maintenance is a lot shorter than the typical owner.

100% correct. I drove a '96 Suburban for over 600,000 miles with a similar maintenance program. I never added oil between oil changes for 20 years. Valve covers were never off of that engine. I used exclusively Walmart oil and filters. With multiple intake gasket changes I always saw a very clean lifter valley. Oil quality and additive packages have improved over the years so now I ignore that oil life reminder in the DIC and go up to 4000 miles. Overkill? Maybe but oil is cheap, engines are not.

 

[PPV_2018]

My intervals are not an issue and it would not help me to change my routine. I change oil every 3000 miles religiously.. 3500 max and that’s only for “circumstances” stopping me from doing so at 3k (rare). I do not think it’s overkill. And if it is, i don’t really give a damn. That’s how i have done it for years on all my vehicles.

Others around me only take vehicle to shop (or to me)for oil change when the DIC tells them too.

100% correct. I drove a '96 Suburban for over 600,000 miles with a similar maintenance program. I never added oil between oil changes for 20 years. Valve covers were never off of that engine. I used exclusively Walmart oil and filters. With multiple intake gasket changes I always saw a very clean lifter valley. Oil quality and additive packages have improved over the years so now I ignore that oil life reminder in the DIC and go up to 4000 miles. Overkill? Maybe but oil is cheap, engines are not.

Yeah but a 96 suburban is a different beast than most vehicles on the road today. It was designed to last forever. Perhaps not so much these days, I begrudgingly admit… the verdict’s still out, though . . .

Still agree with the point of it all.


All that being said, at least specifically to my case, the weight of the oil would probably be the biggest factor.. hence the topic.

 

[NELLY1947]

I have been wanting to ask this question, but was hoping someone else would so i would not have to. But if was, i probably missed it.

When i first got the ppv, the first thing i did was change the oil with the factory spec 0w20. That was before i knew the reasoning behind the change was purely for CAFE / saving half a drip of fuel economy. I was caught off guard because I always keep extra 5w30 around that i would have used, but ended up going to the store to buy the 0w20.

Anyways, ppv is about due for another change and i am curious on the thoughts of the forum to go with 0w30 or 5w30 oil, OR even 5w20. The climate the truck lives in is pretty much hot year round with only a month or two of “cold”..

General consensus seems to be that 0w20 is not the best for our engines despite what GM says. So then , what is.. ?

Thoughts?

First do you know what the numbers mean...
5w30 is a 5 thickness at cold..and 30 at hot.
Why would any one want 0 or water in the engine unless if you are in Alaska in December. Any idea the scraping that can happen in 10 minutes. I'm in cold winter climate and run 10w30 synthetic year round. It takes 10 minutes for the engine to warm.