Never ending debate - best oil weight

[OR VietVet]

Mobil 1 has a 0W-16 that I have used in a 2022 Toyota Prius for my landlords son's oil changes.

 

[PPV_2018]

So lets say my oil pressure is good, you guys think there would be any benefit whatsoever to running 5w40 euro or just run the good ole classic 5w30 . . . ?

typically I only run valvoline full synthetic (though I am not a valvoline loyalist, i open to using any brand tbh) because that’s what i have run for many years, *but* I am interested in trying the R&P. @OR VietVet

 

[fozzi58]

I have a 17 Suburban and have been using the dealer\GM recommended oil since I bought it. I haven't switched to mobile one or anything like that, even though I use Mobile 1 strictly in my TA.

While various name brands of oil, blends, and weights may make a small difference, the INTERVALS between oil changes are going to make more of difference in engine cleanliness, performance, and longevity than any "specially blended" oil.

My truck get an oil change every 3k miles like its religion. All my fluids are changed at "extreme" intervals. Its at 108k miles, 60k of that with a Whipple pushing 8lbs of boost, a Circle D torque converter, and many miles of hard driving and racing...and there isn't a spec of metal in either the oil or trans fluid.

No ticks, no collapsed lifters, no trans shutters. Everything is running in top shape. I truly believe its cause the intervals between fluid changes\maintenance is a lot shorter than the typical owner.

 

[waveryd]

I have a 17 Suburban and have been using the dealer\GM recommended oil since I bought it. I haven't switched to mobile one or anything like that, even though I use Mobile 1 strictly in my TA.

While various name brands of oil, blends, and weights may make a small difference, the INTERVALS between oil changes are going to make more of difference in engine cleanliness, performance, and longevity than any "specially blended" oil.

My truck get an oil change every 3k miles like its religion. All my fluids are changed at "extreme" intervals. Its at 108k miles, 60k of that with a Whipple pushing 8lbs of boost, a Circle D torque converter, and many miles of hard driving and racing...and there isn't a spec of metal in either the oil or trans fluid.

No ticks, no collapsed lifters, no trans shutters. Everything is running in top shape. I truly believe its cause the intervals between fluid changes\maintenance is a lot shorter than the typical owner.

100% correct. I drove a '96 Suburban for over 600,000 miles with a similar maintenance program. I never added oil between oil changes for 20 years. Valve covers were never off of that engine. I used exclusively Walmart oil and filters. With multiple intake gasket changes I always saw a very clean lifter valley. Oil quality and additive packages have improved over the years so now I ignore that oil life reminder in the DIC and go up to 4000 miles. Overkill? Maybe but oil is cheap, engines are not.

 

[PPV_2018]

My intervals are not an issue and it would not help me to change my routine. I change oil every 3000 miles religiously.. 3500 max and that’s only for “circumstances” stopping me from doing so at 3k (rare). I do not think it’s overkill. And if it is, i don’t really give a damn. That’s how i have done it for years on all my vehicles.

Others around me only take vehicle to shop (or to me)for oil change when the DIC tells them too.

100% correct. I drove a '96 Suburban for over 600,000 miles with a similar maintenance program. I never added oil between oil changes for 20 years. Valve covers were never off of that engine. I used exclusively Walmart oil and filters. With multiple intake gasket changes I always saw a very clean lifter valley. Oil quality and additive packages have improved over the years so now I ignore that oil life reminder in the DIC and go up to 4000 miles. Overkill? Maybe but oil is cheap, engines are not.

Yeah but a 96 suburban is a different beast than most vehicles on the road today. It was designed to last forever. Perhaps not so much these days, I begrudgingly admit… the verdict’s still out, though . . .

Still agree with the point of it all.


All that being said, at least specifically to my case, the weight of the oil would probably be the biggest factor.. hence the topic.

 

[NELLY1947]

I have been wanting to ask this question, but was hoping someone else would so i would not have to. But if was, i probably missed it.

When i first got the ppv, the first thing i did was change the oil with the factory spec 0w20. That was before i knew the reasoning behind the change was purely for CAFE / saving half a drip of fuel economy. I was caught off guard because I always keep extra 5w30 around that i would have used, but ended up going to the store to buy the 0w20.

Anyways, ppv is about due for another change and i am curious on the thoughts of the forum to go with 0w30 or 5w30 oil, OR even 5w20. The climate the truck lives in is pretty much hot year round with only a month or two of “cold”..

General consensus seems to be that 0w20 is not the best for our engines despite what GM says. So then , what is.. ?

Thoughts?

First do you know what the numbers mean...
5w30 is a 5 thickness at cold..and 30 at hot.
Why would any one want 0 or water in the engine unless if you are in Alaska in December. Any idea the scraping that can happen in 10 minutes. I'm in cold winter climate and run 10w30 synthetic year round. It takes 10 minutes for the engine to warm.

 

[PPV_2018]

Did the change, 5w30. Could just be my imagination but it seems to run smoother and a bit quieter on start up. Probably my imagination.. but going to run at least 5w30 from here on out.

oh and for for what it’s worth.. 8 quarts with filter and the dipstick reads all the way to the top of the hatchmarks . That’s checking it on flat ground after sitting for 2 hours. It’s weird how this apparently varies from truck to truck

 

[Marky Dissod]

Did the change, 5w30.

Which 5W30? No, seriously. Earlier you said you're not a 'Valvoline loyalist'.
If you get the difference between Castrol 'full synthetic' vs Group4 synthetics like Mobil1, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, SOME Amsoil varieties,
you'd seriously consider NAPA full synthetic motor oil, not only because it is made by Valvoline.

0W30 for COLD winters. 5W30 for most normal uses. If your engine works or plays hard, ask 'vette guys.

 

[PPV_2018]

Which 5W30? No, seriously. Earlier you said you're not a 'Valvoline loyalist'.
If you get the difference between Castrol 'full synthetic' vs Group4 synthetics like Mobil1, Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, SOME Amsoil varieties,
you'd seriously consider NAPA full synthetic motor oil, not only because it is made by Valvoline.

0W30 for COLD winters. 5W30 for most normal uses. If your engine works or plays hard, ask 'vette guys.

i used this . . .

i mean truth be told i really wanted to try the Valvoline restore and protect. When i went to buy the oil, i didn’t see the R&P. So i just went with the “usual”.. aka valvoline full syn. After i paid for the oil and was walking out, i saw an entire endcap filled to brim with valvoline restore and protect.. lol wtf.. why did they not put it in the section with all the other oil. After waiting in line for far too long in the understaffed auto parts store with 13 quarts of oil (the hard body was due for a change too).. i was NOT going back to switch it out.

I am certainly not a valvoline loyalist. It is just what i have used forever. I’m not a chemist or “real” mechanic, I do not know the intricacies in difference between oils. And i tried reading though bobistheoilguy.. it made my head hurt. i am open to other brands, but trying to ask people what’s the best motor oil is like asking what’s the best chocolate bar or automaker . . There’s basically no real answer . . .

And with that being said I do appreciate the input that was given from everyone in this topic though.

 

[Marky Dissod]

... trying to ask people what’s the best motor oil is like asking what’s the best chocolate bar or automaker. There’s basically no real answer ...

If there's no real answer, it's a stupid question.

There's no best motor oil, because it's impossible to make one motor oil that does EVERYTHING better, at a price that normal people can afford.
Between that, and the fact that most people buy brands (I'll trade you my Chevy for your Chevy ... ) instead of understanding formulations.

Back when my brain still had real endurance, I read BobIsTheOilGuy enough to understand that motor oil brands can get better or worse, or even both,
depending on which specific product you're talking about. I only use Group4 fully synthetic motor oils as a result of what I learned before I smelled burnt toast.