New Guy: 1996 Yukon SLT 1500 4x4

[Todd R]

Thanks! Had a feeling this was the place to start. Yep! Been well maintained and gently driven by the previous owner from 52k to 170k miles, and it shows. But, it still has sat for six years, and that shows too! Even in Michigan you can't buy this solid running and looking of a truck with even this old maintenance for this money. Not even close. Technically it didn't run when I agreed to pay the cash and sign the title! Had it running less than two hours later.



Thanks! It's not perfect, as the seems are splitting on the outer bolsters, and it all needs full detailing yet, but the leather should react nicely to some leather lotion. The headliner is flawless, as are the door panels. I had to ruin the barn door panels to get the doors open, but I think I can glue them back together and re-use them.

More work resumes tomorrow, as it's diff fluid time!

Nice rig brother and really good start on the maintenance. It should pull a trailer just fine. The one weak link in these are the 4l60e transmission. Make sure to add a tranny cooler if it doesn't have one. I would add one whether you pull a trailor or not. I have a 4l80e on hand when my trans decides to fail. The swap isn't that bad. Much heavier duty. It basically a 400 T with OD. Almost bullet proof and good for 700 hp but the harness and other stuff is about 700 bucks. The gear oil in the differential and transfer case is the way to go.

 

[Todd R]

The fuel system struggle is real.

All of the typical problems are rearing their ugly heads.

Good thing this isn't my daily!

Hard starts being the general statement of what's happening.

Turns over fine.

Will either:
-cough when I let off the starter
-act like it backfires and stop the engine turning, only to resume turning over a moment later
-occasionally come to life (but rarely, and not with gusto)
-not ever fire or cough or rumble or anything

My suspicion is the fuel pump combined with the spider injector. The problem has been persisting, and getting worse over the two months I've had it.

Fuel pressure check is on the list, but I'm sure I'll find that it's A) not getting enough pressure and B) not holding it after key-off.

The fuel pump was replaced about 7 years ago, but I dunno with what kind of quality part. The truck sat for 6 of those years with little fuel in the tank (<2 gallons).

The spider injector / intake manifold looks as though it's never been removed.

Looks like I'm in for it for what I suspect the truck could sell for later on, about $2500.

Ah well, stuff happens.

I'll still get good use out of the truck.

~Cody

Sounds like spider but run fuel pressure check and vacc checks. Could have intake manifold leaks. Get some ether and spray around the intake manifold. If you pull it I'd upgrade the spider to the mpfi such a huge upgrade. I'd clean and polish the intake and do an EGR block as well. just my .02 It will matter where you live and what your emmission regulation are though.

 

[Todd R]

Grabbed a quick shot of the underside in the rear.

What do you think? Am I in danger if never getting anything apart?

In other news I did 140 miles in it today with no issues. Returning an average 14 MPG.

View attachment 184109

Thats pretty ugly. No dissrespect. I wouldn't put much into it though. You'd be better off with a better frame and something with less rust. I just don't want you to spend too much on a rusty frame. I think if you want a good Tahoe or Yukon you can find a better chassis for a decent price to start with. After all iy starts from the ground up. If there are good parts pull them and scrap it start with a solid frame.

 

[Todd R]

Well, good news and bad news from yesterdays work session.

Good news:

-New head unit installed and working flawlessly (Kenwood KDC-X399)
-New front brake calipers, pads, rotors, and hardware

Bad news:

-While bleeding for front brakes, blew the rear line in about four places

So, now I gotta wait three weeks for my friend to come home and help me replace my lines throughout the truck. Doing them once, doing them all, doing them right.

Could be worse. I could've been driving it a long distance like I did to work three times last week on the highway when it happened.

I'm about to do the same thing. It's not so bad I think I'm going to buy a flaring kit and bender tool. Nice to have for future endeavors. Good luck let us know how it goes if you have time.

 

[yodman]

Nice rig brother and really good start on the maintenance. It should pull a trailer just fine. The one weak link in these are the 4l60e transmission. Make sure to add a tranny cooler if it doesn't have one. I would add one whether you pull a trailor or not. I have a 4l80e on hand when my trans decides to fail. The swap isn't that bad. Much heavier duty. It basically a 400 T with OD. Almost bullet proof and good for 700 hp but the harness and other stuff is about 700 bucks. The gear oil in the differential and transfer case is the way to go.

It does definitely have a trans cooler already in it which is nice.

Sounds like spider but run fuel pressure check and vacc checks. Could have intake manifold leaks. Get some ether and spray around the intake manifold. If you pull it I'd upgrade the spider to the mpfi such a huge upgrade. I'd clean and polish the intake and do an EGR block as well. just my .02 It will matter where you live and what your emmission regulation are though.

Turned out it needed a distro cap really badly. Serious corrosion under the cap, and the two rear-most plugs (cylinders 7 and 8) were black with soot. The rest looked fine. Explained why it woul run rough when I could get it to cough to life. Michigan has no regulations, so I'm not concerned there. I'd be curious to throw some "performance parts" at it for a little boost in power and driveability, but it really doesn't need it due to how good it runs.

Thats pretty ugly. No dissrespect. I wouldn't put much into it though. You'd be better off with a better frame and something with less rust. I just don't want you to spend too much on a rusty frame. I think if you want a good Tahoe or Yukon you can find a better chassis for a decent price to start with. After all iy starts from the ground up. If there are good parts pull them and scrap it start with a solid frame.

In the end it's all just deep surface rust. When it breaks, I'll look for a new truck. It's Michigan, and it's winter. The truck will sit this winter due to the brake lines and due to a failing ball joint that I just don't have time to repair right now. I'll use it for driving up and down my driveway to move snow, but that's it for now. Likely I'll save the engine for when I find a new chassis. Everything that has had to come apart on it has been good so far.

I'm about to do the same thing. It's not so bad I think I'm going to buy a flaring kit and bender tool. Nice to have for future endeavors. Good luck let us know how it goes if you have time.

I do not feel comfortable making new lines myself, to be honest.

 

[PG01]

I know about rust on frames, salty upstate NY.....every one of my cars....i hate going under them to do anything because a) it may have gotten worse and 2) how much crap will i get in my eyes today.....smh

Honestly, bending up and flaring your own lines is very simple, if you can do a normal maintenance, you can do that.