New guy looking to buy a Yukon or Tahoe and need advice please.

[Brewcity]

manual has the nuetral option and easier to fix and track down issues. the first (1996)e-shifter nv243(np1) had very limited diagnostics and no nuetral option. NV246(np8)(1998) has more diagnostic ability as well as auto 4wd and has the nuetral option back in play.

Thanks for ALL your help...so the NV246(np8)(1998) is the best option in your opinion for fixing and diagnosis? Can you get that as a manual on the floor, or is it strickly push button?

 

[SunlitComet]

Push button only. it is more complicated but it is the conveniences that make it a better choice. it is also safer to press a button for 4hi then it is to reach down while driving. keep in mind that the manual 241 was still available in 1998 as well.

 

[WalterMitty]

Thanks guys....what about issues with transfer case, or transmission, or ABS...stuff like that? I do know we are talking about around a 13-17 year old car, so there will be issues. Just want to avoid a certain specific year if it has given owners fits.
Thanks a lot for the input.

As someone else said, these trucks are getting old and some have had pretty tough service.

That said, parts are plentiful and lots of folks know how to work on them. Within this range however I would avoid the 1995 model year.

I bought a 1995 K1500 new in 1995. I am very meticulous with service and I don't abuse my stuff, but I had to rebuild the transmission twice.

The first time was about 65,000 miles and was done by Mr Good Wrench - not cheap. At about 120,000 it went out again.

I told my transmission tech that I just wanted a new or certified rebuilt because I had lost confidence in the transmission I had. He said I was asking for big troubles because it was virtually impossible to identify and locate a transmission that would match my truck.

I thought that was odd, but he explained that 1995 was a transitional year for GM and that at this point even GM couldn't reconstruct what combination of parts had been used in specific vehicles.

One might have matching mechanicals while the computers would be different, or the programming wouldn't match and etc. So I paid for the upgraded rebuild and didn't have another problem with the truck until I sold it when I got my Yukon.

Other than that, I prefer the Vortec because of better power and fuel economy, and I prefer the OBDII. Which puts me in the 1996+ camp.

.

 

[Brewcity]

Push button only. it is more complicated but it is the conveniences that make it a better choice. it is also safer to press a button for 4hi then it is to reach down while driving. keep in mind that the manual 241 was still available in 1998 as well.

Thanks again for the input...I guess I see your point about convinience and safety...but I am looking for reliability, and I just dont see how an electrical push button 4x4 system is easier to fix than a manual on the floor. Maybe I am wrong, and that is why I ask questions to the pro's. I had an 88 Bronco (sorry) that had a push button 4x4 system, and it broke twice...granted it was a Ford!
Anyway...I do appreciate the input, advice, and help with this.
I am just trying to avoid certain headaches when I buy.
Thanks again.

---------- Post added at 08:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:36 AM ----------

As someone else said, these trucks are getting old and some have had pretty tough service.

That said, parts are plentiful and lots of folks know how to work on them. Within this range however I would avoid the 1995 model year.

I bought a 1995 K1500 new in 1995. I am very meticulous with service and I don't abuse my stuff, but I had to rebuild the transmission twice.

The first time was about 65,000 miles and was done by Mr Good Wrench - not cheap. At about 120,000 it went out again.

I told my transmission tech that I just wanted a new or certified rebuilt because I had lost confidence in the transmission I had. He said I was asking for big troubles because it was virtually impossible to identify and locate a transmission that would match my truck.

I thought that was odd, but he explained that 1995 was a transitional year for GM and that at this point even GM couldn't reconstruct what combination of parts had been used in specific vehicles.

One might have matching mechanicals while the computers would be different, or the programming wouldn't match and etc. So I paid for the upgraded rebuild and didn't have another problem with the truck until I sold it when I got my Yukon.

Other than that, I prefer the Vortec because of better power and fuel economy, and I prefer the OBDII. Which puts me in the 1996+ camp.

.

WOW...thanks A LOT!! That is great to know and exactly the info I was looking for.
You probably helped me avoid a TON of headaches, and save me money!
Thanks SO much!

 

[cqlink]

I have a '99 and tranny is rock solid. If you're getting one, try to find one owner WITH maint. records and receipts. Tranny fluid should be changed at intervals specified in the manual despite what anyone says. Engineers detail these interval for good reason.

Next thing to check (as others mentioned) is intake gaskets. DexCool ate the original gaskets up. They WILL leak. If you look at the engine near the intake, you can see signs of leaks in SOME cases. There is a replacement gasket set that stands up to dexcool. You can find it online.

Fuel pump design is piss poor and wears easily. Expect to replace. If you're buying a truck from the North, the pump retainer ring (on top of tank) easily rusts out and you'll lose pressure and you'll leak a bit at fill ups.

I think you can expect the water pump to go around 80K-90K as well, so if you do the gasket job, you might as well replace water pump as well.

Other than that, my '99 runs smooth, quiet and even gets around 19-20 mpg on highway with mo mods. I'm a MOPAR guy but the 5.7L seems to be rock solid.

 

[Brewcity]

Hey guys....I just found this and wanted to know your input:

http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Reliability.aspx?year=1995&make=Chevrolet&model=Tahoe&trimid=-1

http://www.edmunds.com/chevrolet/tahoe/1997/reliability.html?style=11521

Seems the 1995 IS the most reliable model out there according to these 2 sites. Any thoughts? I just dont want to end up spending $800+ dollars on the Transfer Case Encoder Motor Assembly, plus other known issues if it can be avoided.
Thanks as always for the input.

---------- Post added at 09:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:06 AM ----------

I have a '99 and tranny is rock solid. If you're getting one, try to find one owner WITH maint. records and receipts. Tranny fluid should be changed at intervals specified in the manual despite what anyone says. Engineers detail these interval for good reason.

Next thing to check (as others mentioned) is intake gaskets. DexCool ate the original gaskets up. They WILL leak. If you look at the engine near the intake, you can see signs of leaks in SOME cases. There is a replacement gasket set that stands up to dexcool. You can find it online.

Fuel pump design is piss poor and wears easily. Expect to replace. If you're buying a truck from the North, the pump retainer ring (on top of tank) easily rusts out and you'll lose pressure and you'll leak a bit at fill ups.

I think you can expect the water pump to go around 80K-90K as well, so if you do the gasket job, you might as well replace water pump as well.

Other than that, my '99 runs smooth, quiet and even gets around 19-20 mpg on highway with mo mods. I'm a MOPAR guy but the 5.7L seems to be rock solid.

Great to know!! Thank You...you are definitely helping ease my mind about the 96+ models.
And its great that you let me know what to look for and what to expect to replace when I get one...VERY helpful, and I appreciate that.

 

[SunlitComet]

Hey guys....I just found this and wanted to know your input:

http://autos.msn.com/research/vip/Reliability.aspx?year=1995&make=Chevrolet&model=Tahoe&trimid=-1

http://www.edmunds.com/chevrolet/tahoe/1997/reliability.html?style=11521

Seems the 1995 IS the most reliable model out there according to these 2 sites. Any thoughts? I just dont want to end up spending $800+ dollars on the Transfer Case Encoder Motor Assembly, plus other known issues if it can be avoided.
Thanks as always for the input.

---------- Post added at 09:10 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:06 AM ----------



Great to know!! Thank You...you are definitely helping ease my mind about the 96+ models.
And its great that you let me know what to look for and what to expect to replace when I get one...VERY helpful, and I appreciate that.

$800 for an encoder motor. you can get them for less then 25% of that cost. not every one fails automatically in a specified year. Just becuase the factory says there might be an issue does not mean that money must be spent every time. I think the issue ratings are overblown.

 

[Brewcity]

$800 for an encoder motor. you can get them for less then 25% of that cost. not every one fails automatically in a specified year. Just becuase the factory says there might be an issue does not mean that money must be spent every time. I think the issue ratings are overblown.

Great...thanks for the advice...I was thinking the same thing, but wanted to make sure.
Thanks for ALL you help...I really do appreciate it...especially for a newb like me looking to buy. It really puts my mind at ease.

 

[992dr]

I'm happy with my 99. Its been great for almost 5 years. Granted its not a 4x4 but they all seem to have the same issues. Just be aware of the things that can go wrong. Definately do your research before anything. Google is your friend as is Sunlit, he is a wealth on knowledge when it comes to our trucks.

Good Luck