New Member. Introducing myself with a few questions.

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Chatchie

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Whats going on everyone? Been lurking the forums for a few days soaking up info as I just bought a 97 Tahoe LT. I've also owned a 95 silverado Z71 Ext. Cab so I feel right at home in the "hoe". I enjoy working on my own vehicles and am really into cars. My recent ongoing project has been my pride and joy 88 Mazda Rx-7 Turbo.

So about the Tahoe.......
97 LT Blue on Grey leather
144,000 miles
All records and reciepts
Bought from original owner
Very well taken care of truck
$2500

I feel I got a pretty good price on this truck so I gonna throw a bit more into it. What have you all done about the 2 front seats as far as the crappy, cracking, tearing chevy leather? It seems all GM truck leather from this era have the same problem.

Im going to do a torsion/block lift. Are the $300 torsion key kits really any better than the $100 ones? They seem a bit "beefier" but are they worth it?

Thanks in advance for the replies and I hope to spend some time on here. Here is the only pic I have of the truck right now. I pick it up monday night.

IMG_20101007_172339.jpg

---------- Post added at 10:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:30 PM ----------

Also, is there a source for OEM style 4 door flares?
 

foreverfalcon40

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CONGRATS!

I can't speak for lifted since I am the opposite, LOW!

A pick-up is fun! What you end up doing to that, mod wise? Still have it? Why ya sell it? RX-& is fun as ****, porting that thing is a dying art. My buddy bought a wrecked turbo rx-7 and swapped it into his clean shell. SHIT IS FRESH! Post some pics! I'll ask him a good forum for you to go on.

Back to the HOE....

Cracking seats...clean em up rea nice and hit em with some paint to cover up the cracks and hide the cushion that breaks thru the ripped leather or replace them or recover them.

OEM fender flares, you can cheap out and go junkyard hunting or get them from XENON, quite pricey but well worth the look.

Here is a pick of my truck with XENON's like OEM.

DSC00796.jpg
 
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OP
C

Chatchie

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Ive read that I dont need aftermarket keys, so Im good on that point.

As far as my mazda, heres a few pics during the build and my finished interior. Sorry for the cell phone pics.

81703fb4.jpg
b8d9a7ff.jpg
8d3b0c40.jpg
2010-07-13202531.jpg

And my new turbo going in this winter. 7 blade Holset HX35

IMG_20100920_185231.jpg

I am a long time member on RX7club.com.
 

h0tr0d

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You don't need to buy the keys for the obs hoes and yuks. You can crank them to the max without them. I did my front 2" and that's about as far as you want to go due to the ride getting really stiff. The more expensive key sets just include a control arm with a revised ball joint angle that will allow you to have less stress on the ball joints, but they do nothing to address the stiffness. The next step up is a 4-6" crossmember lift, and if you have auto-trac (the push button 4x4) you'll need to invest in a new driveshaft as well if you go that route.

My suggestion if you want to do it on the cheap is to crank 2" in the front, add 1.5" or 2" blocks in the rear and you'll be able to fit 33's on aftermarket rims no problem.

As far as the RX7 goes, that looks like a killer project...however, that 13b is much better suited for my first gen...so you should give it to me :)

Mine is an '81 RX7 that was a BAE turbo test mule, but now just has a 12A street port built by rotary performance and it's got a racing beat intake and dellorto 48DHLA carb on it. It's all gutted out with a roll cage, racing slicks, and a bullet hole from it's old street racing days up in Dallas.
 

bowtiefreak

No Quarter
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When cranking and adding blocks longer shocks will help the ride quality of the truck.
 

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