New Owner with some questions - 2007 Tahoe LTZ

[Meccanoble]

All of that seems reasonable to me unless you have proof that they've been done previously. I always assume all maintenance items are original to the vehicle unless proven otherwise. With things like plugs and wires, you can inspect those ahead of time to determine their condition prior to replacing them. So I'd take a close look at that before spending the time and money on them. Same can be said about the belts. Inspect them and proceed accordingly. You should be able to determine pretty quickly whether they need replaced or not. As far as all the fluids, go to town IMO. The only caveat to that is with the trans fluid. There are some who feel that if you've run 113k miles and never changed the trans fluid then it's best to not change it and let it ride. If you do decided to do a trans flush make sure you have the professionals handle it.

Just my $.02 cents

I agree. You definitely want to focus on fluids as the issues created by bad fluids are harder to recognize and the damages can be more severe. Even if you waste money on a maintenance item, you will feel comfort knowing previous owner did the work. I changed my plugs with anger and joy knowing the old ones were still good

 

[Meccanoble]

$365 for spark plugs and wires seems a bit steep to me. But maybe that’s because of wires too. I had mine replaced just a couple thousand miles ago, shortly after I rolled over 100k and even though the shop owner is a good friend and a client of my business it still wasn’t go to cost anywhere near that. I think I pad like $40 or something close for the most expensive plugs. And labor was only like an hour. But they didn’t do wires so maybe that’s why your quote for those was higher.

365 for plugs and wires sounds super expensive but that plug on passenger side closest to firewall can be a true PITA if you dont have the right tools and patience. Its doable though and its doable from inside engine bay. Just research, look at youtube videos and be patient. I still deal with this (impatience) but its necessary to keep you sane when things dont go your way at first.

 

[savagebasher]

So plot thickens on my exterior smell issue... Doesn't appear to be coolant after all. On my way home yesterday, I noticed smoke coming from the rear passenger wheel once I stopped in my driveway. My first thought was seized caliper. Did a little research and I drove the truck in reverse and also did a few quick stops in reverse to see if that frees or resets things. Interesting enough, the truck does not pull when brakes are applied and there is no noticeable friction from brakes when shifting from D to N like you might expect. The rotors appear ok as well. Maybe I am barking up the wrong tree. Regardless, I plan to pop of the wheel and check everything over.

 

[PG01]

Gotta tell you, my ‘13 does it but i only smell it when i get to my brothers house about 20 min away. Every time i go to his house i smell it, my wife even commented a few times.... i never smell it any other place or time and there is no indication of strange brake wear, my truck is garaged nightly since new....so i would smell it. he lives up a small mountain then up a gravel road to a 50 yard paved driveway.... i can put my head under the truck and next to the wheel and its definitely the right rear wheel. I fixed it by not going through over there anymore....f it....

Btw @savagebasher it wouldnt pull if its the rear wheel... fronts yes, rears no

 

[savagebasher]

Interesting.. thanks for the input. I drove it in reserve and did a few hard brakes and the smoke has not returned. Smell even seems better so we will see.

 

[savagebasher]

Hey all, quick follow-up. The smell ended up being the rear axles seals. Had both replaced for $300 and had shop use Amsoil 75W-90 Severe Gear Oil in the diff. Also changed the engine oil with Amsoil Signature Series. They say good for 25k or once a year. Not sure I trust that. But does using Amsoil help with potential future AFM issues as well or no?

Also, I want to do the transfer case and trans fluids next with Amsoil. Except I have the auto push button 4wd. That means AutoTracII fluid is a must right?

 

[MajorJakkov]

This is news to me. Great news, at that. After all the reading I've done on these things, not once have I ever ran across anything mentioning an updated design. You have a part number? Old vs. new pics?



i know this is an old post but i just happened to see it today...when i had my dash replaced in 2015, the service manager at my dealership told me the dash material of construction was changed in 2013 (i dont know if that means between model years 2012/13 or 2013/14) to prevent the cracking from happening. seems weird that they would change it that late in the vehicle's model update cycle but thats what i was told when they ordered my new dash. no clue if there was a part number change

 

[tsuintx]

But does using Amsoil help with potential future AFM issues as well or no?

I would say no, but oil is the single thing that creates most discussion and especially arguments on car forums and there probably isn’t a definitive answer one way or another.

There are plenty of people who will say Amsoil is the best thing since sliced bread and you can drive ridiculous number of miles before it needs to be changed, but at least I haven’t bought into the hype. Nor have I bought into the once a year oil changes.

 

[savagebasher]

Well AFM woes are beginning.. Or maybe I just have had not noticed since I have only had the vehicle a few months... just rolled 118k miles. I changed the oil to Amsoil Signature about 2800 miles ago and I got the low oil message today. Sure enough I need to add at least a quart. I have the Range AFM OBDII delete on order. I understand these need to be reset (replugged in) every few months though correct? I was thinking of also adding Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Thoughts?

 

[techbiker]

Well AFM woes are beginning.. Or maybe I just have had not noticed since I have only had the vehicle a few months... just rolled 118k miles. I changed the oil to Amsoil Signature about 2800 miles ago and I got the low oil message today. Sure enough I need to add at least a quart. I have the Range AFM OBDII delete on order. I understand these need to be reset (replugged in) every few months though correct? I was thinking of also adding Lucas Oil Stabilizer. Thoughts?

Where are you located? If it's hot most of the year, you might want to run a heavier weight oil like a 5w40. The Dexos 5w30 full synthetic the PO of my Tahoe used sheared down to 5w20 within a year! The heavier weight might be less likely to burn. You can also run something a bit cheaper like Mobil 1 and change it more frequently.

http://www.silveradosierra.com/vort...-5w-40-no-oil-consumption-so-far-t405986.html

I run Rotella T6 5w40 in my 1993 300zx and it seems to do a great job. Helps increase oil pressure too.