New Pitman arm?

[nick0789]

Long story short, I’ve been hearing a popping sound when backing out of parking spaces and after checking everything, I found a little play in the pitman arm. I took it to a shop and they said it was fine, but that I could take it to another shop for a second opinion. I’m thinking they just don’t want to do the job because, as I understand it, there should be no slop in the arm.

In the video clip, the drivers wheel is up and I’m shaking at the 3 and 9 positions of the tire.
Can someone confirm whether it’s fine or if it needs to be replaced? Thanks!

 

[915_Tahoe]

i follow this guy on yt, he just came out with this diy. check it out.

 

[nick0789]

Thanks for the reply. The video gave me an additional tip about the gear box adjustment.

I actually had replaced the pitman and idler arm about 2 years ago (and all of 20k miles) so I’m pretty pissed about finding the little bit of play in the pitman arm. I did everything the same as was in the video and it only took me about 2 hours.
I figure that if I have to replace the pitman arm that it’ll take all of 20 minutes this time since everything has been apart not too long ago so nothing should really be seized.

 

[SnowDrifter]

I've heard that GM has specs that allow for some freeplay. There's some debate over that regarding if it was to dodge warranty claims, but that's beside the point.

I'm of the opinion that any part showing freeplay in the suspension is a candidate for replacement. I opt not to **** around with anything in the steering and risk drivability issues / alignment problems / safety concerns.


Perhaps it's an artifact of the video but it almost looks as if the freeplay is coming from the taper and not the ball joint itself. Pop the cotter pin off and verify it's tight

 

[nick0789]

Thanks for the input. I’ll pull the cotter pin and verify torque / retorque and report back

 

[iddqd]

I actually installed this to get rid of that kind of movement in the steering:

 

[nick0789]

Torqued castle nut again, still same issue.

Four hours later I’m sitting here with everything pulled apart, except I am unable to separate the pitman arm stud from the center link. I can’t get the puller around the joint because it’s a moog arm and thicker apparently.
I’ve tried heat, Pb Blaster, a pickle fork, and smacking the crap out of it with a 5 lb hammer and it’s still sitting there.

Any tips?

 

[OR VietVet]

If you have air and an air chisel you can also use a blunt end and hammer at the outside like you have been but with very fast repeated blows from the air hammer. There are also air chisel bits that are also a pickle fork. If you can also spray some penetrant at the stud and get at it tomorrow. Gotta be careful not to put too much pressure thru the pitman arm to where it attaches at the gear box.

That is enough play that I would replace it. That play is not forever, it gets worse. Plus, what you see there is exaggerated thru the rest of the steering linkages.

Next thing you know the toe in is constantly changing.

 

[nick0789]

I have the pitman arm completely disconnected from the gear box, so I’m comfortable wailing on the pitman arm stud.

I may take my pitman arm puller into work and have one of the guys in the maintenance shop grind down the tops of the teeth so I can slide it between the pitman arm and the center link.

 

[OR VietVet]

Can you support the center link with a jack stand and hammer from above at the threaded end and drive it out?