in this case it sounds like the airbag module/bcm just needed a relearn that is normal, apparently that goes for either replacing the airbag control module or bcm, it is required if the airbag is replaced so that makes sense.Battery is two weeks old. It was just replaced (under warranty) and the last battery was like 9 months old. I can't seem to get this truck to hold voltage, and this might be related to my overall electrical issues. I don't drive it daily and it may sit for weeks at a time. When I drive it, park it, check voltage, it shows 12.7-ish volts. A week later it will show 12.5 or so. Another week and it will be at 12.2. I was hoping the new battery would fix that. So far parasitic draw tests (#1 pulling fuses with a multimeter in-line with the negative cable = 13mA draw well within spec; #2 current draw test across all fuses) are not showing anything wrong.
The airbag light is unrelated to my issues - I just replaced the BCM and even in the paperwork I received it gave instructions that this was normal and required a reset by a scan tool (one of the reasons I bought the tech2) and I was successful in doing this.
I was able to command the vent valve finally after charging the battery up overnight.
I followed directions posted a long time ago from @swathdiver - at the plug to the vent valve itself, I have +12v on one wire with Key on, and NO ground on the other, whether commanded by PCM or not. According to those instructions:
So there's no short to ground, there's no voltage, so I need to trace where it goes and test whether it's open or has high resistance.
I have Bose speakers, I assumed that meant I have the Bose amp as well?
I am doing this now as it seems to be resolving most of the communication issues, but I'm not sure why my 2nd new battery in a year keeps dropping down.
I will take a look at this tonight.
if you have the bose amp then yes you should be able to go into it and get the part number, etc and test tone each channel/speaker. I have done it on mine with the 10 speaker system.