New wheels, lug nuts won't stay tight.

[OR VietVet]

Funny you should mention that. I didn't even THINK about the holes in the wheels! Guess this is a community effort, as well it should be. LOL

Yea, "It takes a village" to delve in to problems and figure them out if we can't see the problems.

 

[cntryislandboy]

Thanks for the suggestions on other things to look for, I'll try to take some pics when I can but working on my day off limits my time, might be a day or so before I can get to it. I was able to get a torque wrench and torque them down and it the vibration still happened once I built up some speed. I could also see the driver side rear wheel wobbling some. She's sitting for now until I get a chance to look at it a little more.

On the plus side my wife is loving going from here Denali to the old LT Tahoe, LOL.

 

[OR VietVet]

Thanks for the suggestions on other things to look for, I'll try to take some pics when I can but working on my day off limits my time, might be a day or so before I can get to it. I was able to get a torque wrench and torque them down and it the vibration still happened once I built up some speed. I could also see the driver side rear wheel wobbling some. She's sitting for now until I get a chance to look at it a little more.

On the plus side my wife is loving going from here Denali to the old LT Tahoe, LOL.

I would bet then that you have some damaged wheels, studs or the lug nuts are damaged too and may still be the incorrect taper.

 

[gat0r]

for TPMS,
you need to put Yukon in relearn mode

i have seen mention of a 'standard pressure release method' for your generation of yukon.
try a search for it, here


for mine there is a scan tool needed

 

[wjburken]

for TPMS,
you need to put Yukon in relearn mode

i have seen mention of a 'standard pressure release method' for your generation of yukon.
try a search for it, here


for mine there is a scan tool needed

Interestingly enough, because of this post I learned that somewhere after 2007 the scan tool became a requirement. On my 2007, I could initiate the relearn process on the DIC and then just vary the pressure of a tire by 10psi and work from front driver side around to front passenger side to relearn. My 2013 manual says a relearn tool is needed.

 

[gat0r]

i think i recall a post that it was in the '12-'14 range, that it changed.
im sure someone here knows exactly when.

on my '15, i initiate the relearn process on the DIC, as well. then use the tool starting @ drivers front tire & go clockwise w/ the scan tool

 

[gooffeyguy]

My 2012 TPMS relearn gets initiated by pressing the lock and unlock on the remote simultaneously, and you need a relearn tool to get each sensor activated. You can't just let air out.

My 2011 you could do it without the tool by letting air out.



2001 Yukon SLT
2012 Yukon Denali XL
2011 Yukon Denali RIP 5/20/18

 

[usnret]

Must have changed during the 2011 model year as my 2011 Tahoe requires the tool. Good that the tool is cheap.

 

[sanco]

aftermarket wheel lug nuts are different than factory. some factory wheel lug nuts are not interchangeable. Your factory or factory reps should use acorn style lugs unless they have caps. My fuel aftermarket lug nuts are completely different than any factory style and will not work on factory wheels. If youre having torque issues that frequently I would almost bet its a lugnut issue and not a torque spec issue. torque spec would more than likely only matter over an extended period of time and not on a relatively short trip. It would take a ton of miles or heavy use for lug torque to matter, unless you just hand tightened the damn things lol

 

[mackmcmillan]

So I just put on some new rims and tires. Took a drive about 18 miles round trip and had to stop 5 times to tighten the lug nuts. They were getting to the point i could take them off by hang. I'm just glad I was near an Auto Zone to buy a lug wrench or I would have had serious issues. He suggested to put some blue lock tight on. I've never had this issue before, but I've also never had aftermarket rims, with the exception of the ones that came on the car when we bought it. I'm also currently using aftermarket lug nuts that were recommended with the purchase of rims.

Any suggestions, should I go with the blue lock tight ?

Also any one know how long it will take for the new TPMS to be recognized ? Or is there a special sequence of events I need to preform?

Thanks in advance.

Had this happen to me as well. Got finished on base at the Hobby Shop after replacing the hubs (5th set). Aftermarket wheels that have the plastic adapters to shore up the gap... Drove out of the BAY with torqued nuts and the wheels were instantly wobbly. I attributed it to needing to be seated more than once. I had to tighten, torque, then putter along a base road near the HS and perform this nightmare about 5 times on all 4 (to be sure) sets of nuts. I live in Tucson. It was summer. I was not terribly happy to say the least. BUT, haven't had an issue since. Something worth checking just in case anyway.