Newb in need of advice, 1995 Tahoe LT, Head issues, engine knock

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1995Tahoe

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Recently bought 1995 Tahoe LT 5.7 4dr ($1500). The previous owner had heads put on. Rebuilt heads, apparently. I have no idea what was new and what old used parts went back into the heads, and the whole thing makes me nervous. I called the shop that did the job and they didn't sound like professionals AT ALL. I don't want the engine to be damaged because some idiots didn't know how to put in new valvetrain components. There was so much wrong with this truck I'll make a list of all the things I've fixed so far.

Brake Booster w/Master Cylinder (I knew this was wrong when I bought it)
Running Valve Adjustment (both sides)
New Temp Sensor and Connector (the one by the stat)
New IAC Valve (the old one was stuck open/compressed and the injectors were dumping fuel causing backfiring and misses)
Rerouted the wiring harness out from underneath the heater hose (?) that plugs into the back of the intake, near the distributor

When I did the valve adjustment, all lifters were at least a whole turn too tight. I loosened them until the clack, then did a 1/4 turn. Once I was done with one side, I re-did it just to be sure, and it was confirmed completed, no further adjustment needed. But now there is another ticking that doesn't seem to be coming from the valvetrain, but rather seems like either in the front or underneath. I heard it better when I got next to the harmonic balancer. After doing the valve adjustment, the Service Engine Soon light came on.

If you guys have ideas or advice, that'd be great. I need to know what that knocking might be and I was trying to find out what you guys think about the whole head situation. If you want me to upload a video, I can easily do that. Thanks.

EDIT: I have not done a compression test. Will do tomorrow. I have not done a fuel pressure test. I just ordered the OBD1 to OBD2 adapter, so I have to wait until that comes in before I can see what the CEL/SES is for, neither AutoZone or O'Reilly's Auto have an OBD1 scanner. I have not changed the oil or done any other normal maintenance and tune up operations.
 

DallasTahoe

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You really don't need s scanner to read the codes, just a paper clip and some patience


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1995Tahoe

1995Tahoe

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You really don't need s scanner to read the codes, just a paper clip and some patience

Yeah, just found that out today. Had a code 33. Looked at all the vacuum lines on the MAP sensor, one was accidentally left disconnected. CES light gone, thanks.
 
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1995Tahoe

1995Tahoe

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Did you do the compression test?

No, not yet. I just replaced all the spark plugs and wires. I think it was #4 that was pure pitch black all the way up the tip. Most likely getting a misfire on that one. It feels more consistent through the RPM range, but it's definitely lacking power. Could be the cats are so clogged from running rich the whole time. It makes me wonder why someone wouldn't just buy a IAC valve instead of dealing with replacing plugs, wires, cats, possibly mufflers, and who knows what else later down the road. This truck has definitely not been taken well care of. Still getting a ticking noise. Going to be taking it in to an old school Chevy guy here in town on Saturday. I'm confident he'll know pretty much instantly what it is. I hope it's an easy fix.
 

DallasTahoe

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No, not yet. I just replaced all the spark plugs and wires. I think it was #4 that was pure pitch black all the way up the tip. Most likely getting a misfire on that one. It feels more consistent through the RPM range, but it's definitely lacking power. Could be the cats are so clogged from running rich the whole time. It makes me wonder why someone wouldn't just buy a IAC valve instead of dealing with replacing plugs, wires, cats, possibly mufflers, and who knows what else later down the road. This truck has definitely not been taken well care of. Still getting a ticking noise. Going to be taking it in to an old school Chevy guy here in town on Saturday. I'm confident he'll know pretty much instantly what it is. I hope it's an easy fix.

I had a miss on a couple of cylinders after puttin on some heads, I would suggest revisiting the valve lash and do it with the engine at operating temperature but with the engine off, and the proper way. I bumped the motor until I got one valve slightly open then did the one on that cylinder that was closed, then tighten the nut until there is no up and down motion and the pushrod is able to spin freely, then tighten it down one full turn. I did this to mine and it solved the misses I had, and I have no valve train noise. trust me it works! If it doesn't solve it then look at cap and rotor and make sure to use AC delco parts
 

DallasTahoe

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I also have an obd scan tool and Torque pro so I can see exactly where and how many misfires I have


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