Noisy IAC, No start; fuel, IAC, or?

[SunlitComet]

i have a laptop built in 2005. so much stuff i want to buy and that keeps being put off because i can't afford the $2100 hp i want. when back at work will hit up the pawn shops again to find some temp solution.

if the egr is open it technically is open from intake to exhaust and can thin out the mix so to speak. remove it but leave it plugged in and see how it is working when ignition is on/off. clean it as well.

 

[nimrod.sixty9]

i have a laptop built in 2005. so much stuff i want to buy and that keeps being put off because i can't afford the $2100 hp i want. when back at work will hit up the pawn shops again to find some temp solution.

if the egr is open it technically is open from intake to exhaust and can thin out the mix so to speak. remove it but leave it plugged in and see how it is working when ignition is on/off. clean it as well.

Exactly what I was thinking. Im going to start with unplugging just to see if that is the source of the noise.

Can you gimmie specs on the laptop? Maybe I could get you some memory for it. Could help until you get the one you want.

 

[SunlitComet]

trust me laptop is hardware maxed. did that when i bought it. got the old celeron processor in it. i really just need a new one.

---------- Post added at 05:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:07 PM ----------

it is possible all the iac valves sound like that to as they age.
don't think it is the cruise module.

 

[nimrod.sixty9]

Well, the EGR doesn't seem to respond at all. At least the valve is closed tho.

The noise is without a doubt the IAC and not the EGR. There is also other noise, much more faint, and is what Im thinking you described before. Very strange the truck does that with both IACs and the Tahoe does it with neither.

New development, I DO have spark in a no start situation. Went back and forth between testing and having all plugs wired (Ive only been testing cyl 1, Im lazy). Had spark every single attempt and the truck hasn't started in at least 20 or so attempts and has yet to do so today.

Now I have spark and fuel; how the hell can I have that and it not run at all?!

Only thing left is un-metered air?

 

[SunlitComet]

so has spark and if was consistent during the crank and not start then it seems the crank crank cam sensors are working. and if you had fuel pressure it has to a really out of whack mixture ratio or the actual injectors are not firing. the passlock would not be a cause because it would kill the fuel pump relay just after starting. does wiggling the fuses in the engine fuse box make any difference? pm me your email, i have a sheet or two of troubleshooting no-starts.

 

[nimrod.sixty9]

so has spark and if was consistent during the crank and not start then it seems the crank crank cam sensors are working. and if you had fuel pressure it has to a really out of whack mixture ratio or the actual injectors are not firing. the passlock would not be a cause because it would kill the fuel pump relay just after starting. does wiggling the fuses in the engine fuse box make any difference? pm me your email, i have a sheet or two of troubleshooting no-starts.

It's my username @gmail.com

I actually removed the fuses and sanded them just to insure good contact. Moved every harness I could; CPS, ICM, coil, main feed up colom, etc. This was during the previous attempts today.

Yeah, I was aware of the passlock; already didn't believe it was an issue when I didnt show a security light.

Cant imagine injectors not working and then working. Ive only been aware of leaking FPR and a bad injector, not injectors.

The only other thing I can think of is timing. Maybe teeth on the distro? Jumping back and forth; good, bad, good...

Maybe spark is intermittently too week; http://www.fullsizechevy.com/forum/...624-1999-tahoe-vortec-5-7-will-not-start.html

 

[SunlitComet]

yet when it does start it does fine with no running issues. the odds of that being a dizzy issue are pretty high. you can always take a look under the cap and see how much you can get it to turn by hand and inspect the parts for cross-firing and burning. email on it's way shortly.

 

[nimrod.sixty9]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ikaqkr8j7o8&feature=youtu.be

What do ya think? I could feel it come up slightly; riding the curvature of the teeth.

Going to see if I have warranty on cap and rotor and replace if so.

 

[SunlitComet]

maybe a bit to much. i can get movement on a new dizzy but yours warrants a visual inspection. at worst you may just have to change the gear which is straight forward but have some roll pin punches handy. if you are up to doing the inspection grab some pics as well please.

---------- Post added at 02:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:23 PM ----------

oh and a little upwards movement is not really bad. as the engine runs the angle of gears pushes it up slightly as the rotor turns clockwise.

 

[nimrod.sixty9]

maybe a bit to much. i can get movement on a new dizzy but yours warrants a visual inspection. at worst you may just have to change the gear which is straight forward but have some roll pin punches handy. if you are up to doing the inspection grab some pics as well please.

---------- Post added at 02:48 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:23 PM ----------

oh and a little upwards movement is not really bad. as the engine runs the angle of gears pushes it up slightly as the rotor turns clockwise.

Appreciate it! Didn't know I could just replace the gear.
Got a new cap and rotor. Wish me luck.

Next is gear of this fails.