Just remember, they are front and rear and left and right specific.
Normal ticking???!!
- Thread starter Axm1096
- Start date
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Lots of people swear by them. Interestingly on my 2007, none of the exhaust manifold bolts have broken yet. I've been considering replacing them with ARP bolts proactively just to avoid the problem completely. This thread may get me off my butt to do it.
The only problem with that is that when you go to replace them, some bolts may break.
I am in the same boat with my '07.
One of these days I am going to get all energetic and replace them with ARP's. Just not this day.
TollKeeper
Full Access Member
In the same boat with mine.. If it aint broke, I aint gonna fix it..I am in the same boat with my '07.
One of these days I am going to get all energetic and replace them with ARP's. Just not this day.
ThisIsLivin
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I bet when your all done it will still make the same ticking noise. Buy a mechanics stethoscope from Harbor Freight. You will find the ticking is from a lifter. Could be a lifter or rocker arm issue, but that ticking is definitely valve train.
You can’t say that for sure. There’s been many on here that sound exactly like that and it was exhaust leak. Mine included. I could have swore it was lifter noise.
kevlac
TYF Newbie
I had that same noise on my 2014. I would notice it slightly when the engine was cold. It was more apparent after the engine was cooling down after of period of being used. For example, if I went to the grocery store, the noise was mild ,but present, on the way there. On the way home, after shopping for 1/2 hour, the noise was much louder especially under acceleration. Indeed, the rear exhaust manifold bolts were broken on both sides.
I bought the clamps from Kral. https://www.kralautoparts.com I understand Kral invented those clamps. Their products are made in the USA. I was able to get the passenger side on, but I was not able to get the driver side clamp installed. I think I could have, but I could not get the ground strap off of the back of engine block to utilize the hole needed for the clamp. Not all models have a ground strap in that spot. I will tell you, those clamps will test your patience!
About two weeks, I ended up having a mechanic replace the bolts. In fact, I had new manifolds installed at the same time. They charged about $500 per side for new manifolds, gaskets, bolts, labor, etc. The noise went away.
I bought the clamps from Kral. https://www.kralautoparts.com I understand Kral invented those clamps. Their products are made in the USA. I was able to get the passenger side on, but I was not able to get the driver side clamp installed. I think I could have, but I could not get the ground strap off of the back of engine block to utilize the hole needed for the clamp. Not all models have a ground strap in that spot. I will tell you, those clamps will test your patience!
About two weeks, I ended up having a mechanic replace the bolts. In fact, I had new manifolds installed at the same time. They charged about $500 per side for new manifolds, gaskets, bolts, labor, etc. The noise went away.
ross reynolds
TYF Newbie
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I have been chasing the same issue. I read on another forum that a guy with his wife’s suburban doing this, and he pulled the oil pan, then the oil pick up tube, and changed the rubber o-ring. Supposedly this fixed the tick but I’ve yet to do mine. I have also heard about a TSB for adding an oil distribution hat while the pan is removed, which for a few dollars should be also done while it’s pulled apart.
I think changing the O-ring is more about oil pressure than anything going on with lifters. Adding the AFM oil pressure relief valve deflector is a good idea on engines that were made before they started installing them at the factory.
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