Not Knowing History - 200k Mile Maintenance

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Vman1313

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I bought a 2004 Tahoe Z71 (Flex Fuel) with 201,000 miles. I have "some" background of the life of the vehicle but I am going into this pretending I know nothing and nothing has been done as far as maintenance is concerned in order to FOR SURE KNOW as I am thinking this will be a vehicle I want to keep. Tahoe fires right up and runs with no hesitation or lags. Only issues that you can feel are front passenger shock feels tired when going over BIG bumps.

Here is my list of maintenance I think I should do IN ORDER of IMPORTANCE (in my opinion). I wont have the money to do all at once but I am thinking every month I can knock out a 1 or 2 or more depending on cost.

Please Advise of things I am missing OR what you would do before other things and why!?!? Thanks in Advance!

1. Oil Filter / Oil Change / Air Filter (DONE 1/29/2024)
2. Spark Plugs & Wires (this month)
3. Change Downstream 02 Sensors - CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON - CODES P0155 P0161

4. Transmission Flush / Filter (month 2)
5. Differential Flush / Fill (month 2)

6. Coolant Flush / Fill (month 3)
7. Thermostat? Water Pump? (month 3)

8. Shocks - I already have new ones that were included in the sale but not installed. Front feels like it could use them.
Timing Chain? NOT NEEDED UNLESS NEEDED lol


What have I missed? What would you change to sooner than later?

THINGS MISSED/SUGGESTED BY YALL:
Brake Fluid
Power Steering Fluid
Heater Hose T's and Line
Brakes Upgrade
Ball Joint & Bushings??
Electrical Fan Conversion
 
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Marky Dissod

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1. When you change the oil filter, use ACDelco PF61 or equivalent, not PF48.
Also, when you replace your PCV Valve, use AC Delco 12572717.
2. Whether or not you have the coils with the heat sinks on top, the coils you want are the ones with the heat sinks on top.

4. I'd address the cooling system before the transmission and the differentialS.
I don't passively drain coolant. Instead, I do the following:
Apply 15 psi at the reservoir with a coolant pressure tester.
Run engine (AFTER cooldown!) while disconnecting lower coolant hose, then shut engine off.
A bit messier, but it gets out more coolant than leaving the reservoir cap on and draining coolant from an engine @ 0RpM.
If you can afford it, replace the plastic rear coolant circuit connectors with Gruven metal upgrades.

5. Be sure to use Dex6. I prefer LubeGard ATF.
6. I'd address the tires / brakes / steering / shocks / suspension before addressing the differentials.

Regarding the brakes:
You want to ask for the caliper brackets, calipers, rotors, and pads for a 2010 Tahoe / Suburban. TRUST ME.
This requires 17" wheels, so check that spare wheel.

7. Don't rush the differential fluidS. This'll give you time to choose the diff fluids you prefer.

8.
 

Marky Dissod

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8. I have no choice but to recommend an electrical fan conversion, especially if you find your AC performance faltering at hot idle.
Since this requires a pcm tune, it's a good thing I ALSO recommend a pcm tune.
Although my personal recommendation is pcmperformance.com, Black Bear Tuning also comes highly recommended.
 

Doubeleive

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timing chain, shocks, ball joints, control arms ALL No
unless the shocks feel bad, are leaking or do not operate correctly then they are fine.
get a professional front end inspection and do what is recomended, this will include testing the ball joints and hubs, if nothing is recomended do nothing
timing chain is fine, leave it be unless you have some reason to believe otherwise. they do not need to be serviced.

Otherwise you forgot Brake Flush, Power steering flush.
and DEF do heater hose T's and lines, those are prone to break at a moments notice dumping all the coolant out in nothing flat usually at a inoportune moment.

next trip to the junkyard grab a couple front impact sensors and toss them in the toolbox, eventually you will need one or both.
same with door & window switches.
 
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Vman1313

Vman1313

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1. When you change the oil filter, use ACDelco PF61 or equivalent, not PF48.
Also, when you replace your PCV Valve, use AC Delco 12572717.
2. Whether or not you have the coils with the heat sinks on top, the coils you want are the ones with the heat sinks on top.

4. I'd address the cooling system before the transmission and the differentialS.
I don't passively drain coolant. Instead, I do the following:
Apply 15 psi at the reservoir with a coolant pressure tester.
Run engine (AFTER cooldown!) while disconnecting lower coolant hose, then shut engine off.
A bit messier, but it gets out more coolant than leaving the reservoir cap on and draining coolant from an engine @ 0RpM.
If you can afford it, replace the plastic rear coolant circuit connectors with Gruven metal upgrades.

5. Be sure to use Dex6. I prefer LubeGard ATF.
6. I'd address the tires / brakes / steering / shocks / suspension before addressing the differentials.

Regarding the brakes:
You want to ask for the caliper brackets, calipers, rotors, and pads for a 2010 Tahoe / Suburban. TRUST ME.
This requires 17" wheels, so check that spare wheel.

7. Don't rush the differential fluidS. This'll give you time to choose the diff fluids you prefer.

8.
This is awesome! Printed it out for reference as I research and decide. I knew there would be some good knowledgeable people here. QUESTION: I plan to do some mild dirt roads which get muddy here in Georgia and want to make sure my 4wd is in good working order. Do you still think I should hold off on differentials til after the other things you mentioned?
 

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