Odd surging issue now coolant in the oil

[SunlitComet]

no metal scraper for sure. find stuff like this to help soak and break up. however if it is more like a film or layer wait for the end of build up and start using techron with your gas a lot. thre temperature concerns me tho that you only got 20 psi on a cold engine with cold oil? how fast are you getting the pump going?

 

[Cheesehead]

That psi was with coolant mixed in. I am heading out there right now and going to see how much psi clean oil and a good filter will have. I also Threw in the cheapest bargain oil I could find for cleaning out the coolant. The more I dig into the motor the more I am sure she did not have the greatest life nor the brightest person working on her. At this point I am breathing life into what most people would call a ford off the assembly line....found on road dead.....Found some more interesting electrical splices. Plus the rear engine ground is missing.

To be quite honest I am suprised that I haven't broken a connecting rod yet from the amount of coolant that was resting in #7. That cylinder had to be acting like a water pump the last few times I drove her.

Word of advise...don't rent an oil priming tool that has the round shank they are a total pos. They want to slip on the drill and drop little metal shavings.

I ended up tapeing the living hell out of the drill and primer to keep the shaving from falling in to the engine.

Later coffee break is over.

 

[Cheesehead]

Well Sun, Thank you for the info on the R&R. She purrs like a tiger, what a difference truly firing on all eight does.

Still working on the low oil pressure she was holding 20psi last night well i got her up to running temp, set the timing and cleared all the air pockets from the water jackets. I was hoping it would have pumped up after that. Thinking I am going to pull the valve covers and check the lifters and everything. Then pop the oil pan off and take a look. Might get lucky find that the screen is slightly plugged or it is missing....or just replace the oil pump and be done with it.

 

[SunlitComet]

if it is not plugged and the pump is not damaged on the inside inside use a high volume one instead to make up for the bigger clearances and plan for a new block if it goes south anymore.

 

[SunlitComet]

when the engine is at temp, if it reaches it in that coldness of yours, what psi do you see at idle and 1k,2, and 4k rpm do you see anyway

 

[Cheesehead]

Yea, she reaches operating temps. Right now she is in a heated\insulated garage. At temp and 1K rpm 18psi at 2K rpm 16 psi, I never bumped it up to 4K. I really didn't feel like taking a chance in making more work for me. And I have one set of push rods not pumping oil for me. Wondering if one of the bearings is spinning on me.

I am going to pull the pan tonight and see what the bottom end looks like. Is there a good main bearing cap to pull for inspecting the bearings that wont cause any leaks or issues?

I was hoping to get another 100K out of this block and then when this one finally bites the dust. Swap in the 96 Vortec. But I wanted to R&R the Vortec this summer so it would like a new little slumbering ***** ape.

 

[SunlitComet]

min spec at temp is 6 psi at 1k engine rpm, 18 psi at 2k and 24 at 4k. no specific cap to pull accept i would try maybe the second from the front. just a plain cap and second furthest from pump. grab some hd pics of bearing and crank to post here.

 

[Cheesehead]

I got some good news and bad news....The Good news the Oil pan is clean on the outside. The Bad news, Pulled the second from the front main cap and it smelled like a dead dinosaur's fart, and there is a little bit of light scoring in the bearing but no scoring in the crank that I can feel. Enough that I wasn't putting back together that way.

So I pulled the motor and had a feeling of oh man I should have just pulled it when I tore the heads off of the motor....

The additional list of parts going into her is:

New Main Bearings
New Rod Bearings
New Oil Pump
New Timing Chain
New Seals on the lower end
New Paint Job - the flaking paint is driving me nutz

The only bad thing I found out is that the trany and engine have been sperateted before. All the trany to engine bolts have been replaced with new ones that are the incorrect bolts.. They were at least grade 8 but the ones with out the built on washer.
Out of curiosity the torque converter that is in there is a lime green color from the 50s is that the original?

 

[SunlitComet]

lime green. no. i think you better have the crank checked by a machine shop.

 

[Cheesehead]

Update to the wacky Tahoe...... Sun No need to have the crank checked. Got the crank out on Friday night only to discover the rear main bearing was just about to be wiped out by a chuck of dark brown crud on the crank. Knocked the crud off only to find out there is some pitting in the existing crank on the rear main. I can also see an impression of the rear main bearing in the crank from sitting in one spot with out running. So out the door with the original crank to this motor.... Pulled the casting numbers for the crank and block to go looking for a replacement crank (figuring the '96 in the yard is in the same shape as this motor). So I ran to the local speed shop/parts shop to see if they had a source. Only to find out I now know why the trany to engine bolts are new....The lower end of the motor is a 1969 something or another. Which they happen to have a source on a crank for the gen 1 350. The only thing that sucks is that I just realized that when I got the correct rear main seal I should of got the correct timing chain cover gasket and oil pan gaskets to replace the sets I already picked up. So the engine reassembly has stopped for the night.

On a good note.. I got a beefy old school motor that will take a beating and keep on ticking.