OEM Engine Block heater

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jdpber

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so i ordered the engine block heater for my tahoe.. part no. 12560179, 10408653

10408653-AXX001-3.jpg

This was a fairly straight forward install.. Being that i have an IRON block i looked at the bell housing and rear of the engine on the drivers side and located the engine block coolant drain plug. This is a large 2" brass plug with a 17mm allan socket. To get the plug free you will want a swivel and a 10" extension to clear the frame so that you can use a breaker bar for leverage and break the plug free. You do not want to use an impact as the copper could strip out.

tools needed:
17mm allan socket
swivel
10" extension
ratchet
breaker bar or a length of pipe on the ratchet.
bucket or catch pan
1 gallon od DEX-Cool (this is the GM specific anti freeze) DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE!
1" socket


-Ok to start gather the tools.
-position the catch pan or bucket under the drivers rear corner of the engine.
-use the 17mm socket, swivel, 10" extension, breaker bar in a counter clock wise LEFT LOOSE direction to break the plug free. With the plug free you can use the ratchet to back the plug out.

WARNING: you need to have the heater ready because once the plug is out the liquid is free flowing!

If you do this part fast with 2 hands you can minimize the coolant loss. I use my left hand to free the plug then my right to instantly plug the hole with the heater. BRASS MARS EASY SO do not cross thread the new heater. To insure the threads align proper turn the heater in a counter clockwise rotation until you feel the thread end do into the start thread inside the block. At this point you can start tightening the heater in by hand. It will go in by had a couple rotations until the thread lock tight seal hits.

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Get your 1" socket and put it on the swivel and start to tighten down the heater to a snug finish. DO NOT OVER TORQUE!

Now you need to choose the mounting location of the power plug. I chose to have mine exit at the tow hook. this serves as multiple reasons. 1) in the summer i can tuck it in behind the lower valance. 2) It is a secure location.

route the cord. the supplied length is plenty to put it anywhere you desire. I have seen some people that like to crack the hood and have it by the battery. I have seen it in the grill. this is up to you..

Plug the orange end into the heater and route the cord to the frame. Leave slack clearance around the exhaust. The cord has a heat shield but you do not want contact. I them Zip tie the cord to the brake hard line that is running along the farme and continue to route it forward and out the tow hook. I used a zip tie at the tow hook and tucked it as far back as possible. In picture it is white but was replaced with black.

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Now you want to neatly coil the remainder and secure it to the frame. I coiled mine and secured the bundle to the frame next to one of the hard lines.

You will need a timer and and extension cord. talking to a few people 2.5hr run time before departure tends to be adequate to have the coolant warm when you start the vehicle BUT LOCATIONS MAY VAIRY.


Now clean up the area as some coolant may have spilled. MAKE SURE TO PROPERLY CLEAN THE AREA as radiator coolant is toxic to animals. I like to squirt DAWN dish soap all over the infected area of the driveway and wash.
 

08grey

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my truck has one and I have never used it, let us know how it goes
 
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jdpber

jdpber

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OK finally a cold night 22* low at 7am. I set the timer for 2 hour run time before my leave time. My computer read 88* coolant temp at initial startup. the run timer @ 1 minute mark was 145*. At the 3 minute run time aka the exit of my neighborhood she was at op temp of 190* and blowing FIRE out of the vents. The windshield only needed 2 squirts of frost melt washer fluid and about 1.5 min of Defrost to be fully clear. I am going to increase the pre heat timer to 2.75-3hrs this evening and see what that does for me as they are calling for low 20s again with this front. Then we will be at freezing level for a week which i think 2.5 may be optimal. I will make a small chart. but hell 3hr all the time may be the ticket. I feel a lot better with the cab air temp cooling fast for the baby. I think the block heater in combo with a 2 minute driveway run time that the Cabin temp may be ideal.
 

scoobyxj

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What's your year? When I researched block heaters for my 04 I found that they where pretty much non existent due to the fact the ECM compares the coolant temp, and the intake air temp at start up, and will supposedly set a CEL if there are enough consecutive key cycles at ambient air temps above 0* and the two doesn't match.
 
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jdpber

jdpber

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What's your year? When I researched block heaters for my 04 I found that they where pretty much non existent due to the fact the ECM compares the coolant temp, and the intake air temp at start up, and will supposedly set a CEL if there are enough consecutive key cycles at ambient air temps above 0* and the two doesn't match.


My truck is an '04.
As fast as the way the ECM and BCM communicate at ignition I cannot answer that. But what I can is she fires right up. I will grab the computer from buy buddy within the next few days and look at the signal readouts at start up to see it anything odd pops up. But I have Zero codes and zero issues.

How would the coolant temp and air temp be any different that let say. You start a cold engine at let's say 32* and let it warm up and you drive to Waffle House for some food. On the way you reach 190 op temp. And you park the car and go in for some food. When you exit it has been 15 minutes and the coolant temp is now 155. The ambient intake temp is still 32* and the coolant temp is 155*. These temps are way apart and yet no issues.

So I feel it is fine.
 

08grey

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What would be the effect of you left it plugged in all night. Is there a downside to it? I honestly thought that was how it was supposed to operate.
 

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