Oil Capacity Question/Verification

[blanchard7684]

I'm getting 8.5 qts on an oil change as well. 8 qts gets oil level to mid range on dipstick and that is with a full oil filter.

I do my oil changes after letting oil drain down all night, then I let it drain and then drip for 20-30 minutes.

I have other vehicles that are the same way. If you do a "quick" oil change you have to add less oil than if you did an extended drain.

 

[jfoj]

So funny how many of the YouTube videos of people doing oil changes on these 6.2l engines install an empty oil filter and then add 8 qts of oil WITHOUT starting the engine before checking the oil level and claim the oil level is fine or even people that fill the oil filter before installing it then add 8 qts of oil and start the engine and claim the oil level is fine. Many indicate the oil level is typically half way on the dipstick hashmarks with 8 quarts and claim the oil level is fine, technically it is, but it is likely at least 1/2 quart low! Even more interesting is how GM actually released a bulletin many years ago for this style engine reducing the oil change oil fill requirement from 8.5 quarts to 8.0 quarts.

I feel this engine really needs at least 8.5 quarts and would have no issue with 9.0 quarts at oil change. AGAIN for anyone that has not read my posts in this thread, I MATCHED the oil level on the dipstick where the vehicle oil level was delivered from the factory. To the TOP of the hash marks or the top full mark on the dipstick on my engine. I do not need a different dipstick or dipstick tube!! I matched the oil level to the factory oil fill level.

Even if the doubters claim this is 1 quart overfilled, it will not hurt anything. The slow drainback from the cylinder heads and lifter galley while the engine is running will minimize and potential problems. Given these engines are buring oil and having fuel contamination issue as well as grenading overall, I feel more than happy to run 9 qts in my engine, so it will take longer to consume oil to a lower level and it will take longer for fuel dilution to become a problem for lubrication dilution.

Each his own, but I would highly suggest everyone to fill the oil level to the top of the hash mark on the dipstick, which will be over 8 quarts IMHO.

 

[Vladimir2306]

Hello, I mentioned earlier that our technicians in Russia seem to have found the reason for the increased oil consumption. I will write in metric units. And so, I have a Yukon 2022 with a 6.2 engine. I change the oil according to the manual, every 12,000 km. Then, after changing the oil, the oil level does not change for the first 4000 km, then every 1000 km my oil level drops to the middle, and I add 0.5 liters. until the oil change. In total, my oil consumption is 8.5 liters when changing. And then for the next 8,000 km it takes approximately 4 liters of oil. A total of 12.5 liters of oil consumption between routine maintenance.
Cars with a 6.2 engine have valve covers with a technological defect. There is a sealant laid there, which in one place is missing by about 1 cm, oil goes into this 1 cm.
Now GM has released new valve covers that eliminate this defect. We decided to change the valve covers on my Yukon, and in addition to missing 1 cm of sealant, my separator was completely loose. you can see it in the video.

The video is in Russian, but you can see everything there.
The technician changed the valve covers, and we began to observe. Immediately after the change, I drove along the toll highway. I drove 170 km/h, 100 km one way, and 100 km at a speed of 170 km/h back.
Previously, after driving like this on the highway, it would have taken me about 100-200 ml of oil. After the trip, the oil level remained unchanged. Then I drove around the city, the oil level did not change, and began to drop slightly after 1500 km after replacing the valve covers.
Now I have already driven 4000 km, and in the end I only added 0.5 liters. Yes, oil consumption has not completely gone away. But replacing the valve covers greatly reduced it. It is clear that we still need to observe, but so far I am very pleased with the effect.

 

[wjburken]

I just spent the last several minutes reading this post and all I got out of it was the OP explained throughly that he is an expert is changing and checking the oil in his vehicle and should never be questioned by others who have also been changing and checking oil for a number of years. Open dialog is great, but saying you’re the smartest guy here and everyone is an idiot is not a good way to foster productive conversation. The point of simply seeing if the dipstick in question matches others is a valid point. Variances in production runs do happen and I’m sure dipsticks don’t face the same level of crotchet a lifter or a piston faces. The idea that the oil level checked at time of purchase was the “factory fill” is ridiculous. As stated, the dealer will do a final look over and top off fluids as needed based on dipstick readings.

I’m glad we have now identified the local expert for checking and changing oil. I need to change the oil in my 2016 F-150 and would love to get any professional recommendations on how to properly do that since the 30+ years that I have been changing oil is definitely not enough experience.

 

[jfoj]

I just spent the last several minutes reading this post and all I got out of it was the OP explained throughly that he is an expert is changing and checking the oil in his vehicle and should never be questioned by others who have also been changing and checking oil for a number of years. Open dialog is great, but saying you’re the smartest guy here and everyone is an idiot is not a good way to foster productive conversation. The point of simply seeing if the dipstick in question matches others is a valid point. Variances in production runs do happen and I’m sure dipsticks don’t face the same level of crotchet a lifter or a piston faces. The idea that the oil level checked at time of purchase was the “factory fill” is ridiculous. As stated, the dealer will do a final look over and top off fluids as needed based on dipstick readings.

I’m glad we have now identified the local expert for checking and changing oil. I need to change the oil in my 2016 F-150 and would love to get any professional recommendations on how to properly do that since the 30+ years that I have been changing oil is definitely not enough experience.

wjburken,

Really appreciate your direct and personal attack on me. I never said I was the smartest guy here, I asked a question if anyone else has seen similar conditions and it does appears to be the case that a few members have seen similar situations as I have..

You and some other members clearly do not understand verifiying and matching the factory oil fill level, assuming you had purchased the vehicle new, when the first and subsequent oil changes were performed. Found my oil level at the top of the dipstick hash marks, ended up setting my oil level at the top of the dipstick hash marks. Garbage Out/Garbage In! Funny how much consternation this thread brought up.

Nobody here knows by background or experience level, but all I will say is it is rather vast.

Seems everyone is freeting over my choice to run the oil level where I choose to, each their own! I am running the oil level in the engine where it was delivered from the factory at the top hash mark on the dipstick, pretty basic principal from my point of view.

 

[jfoj]

Hello, I mentioned earlier that our technicians in Russia seem to have found the reason for the increased oil consumption. I will write in metric units. And so, I have a Yukon 2022 with a 6.2 engine. I change the oil according to the manual, every 12,000 km. Then, after changing the oil, the oil level does not change for the first 4000 km, then every 1000 km my oil level drops to the middle, and I add 0.5 liters. until the oil change. In total, my oil consumption is 8.5 liters when changing. And then for the next 8,000 km it takes approximately 4 liters of oil. A total of 12.5 liters of oil consumption between routine maintenance.
Cars with a 6.2 engine have valve covers with a technological defect. There is a sealant laid there, which in one place is missing by about 1 cm, oil goes into this 1 cm.
Now GM has released new valve covers that eliminate this defect. We decided to change the valve covers on my Yukon, and in addition to missing 1 cm of sealant, my separator was completely loose. you can see it in the video.

The video is in Russian, but you can see everything there.
The technician changed the valve covers, and we began to observe. Immediately after the change, I drove along the toll highway. I drove 170 km/h, 100 km one way, and 100 km at a speed of 170 km/h back.
Previously, after driving like this on the highway, it would have taken me about 100-200 ml of oil. After the trip, the oil level remained unchanged. Then I drove around the city, the oil level did not change, and began to drop slightly after 1500 km after replacing the valve covers.
Now I have already driven 4000 km, and in the end I only added 0.5 liters. Yes, oil consumption has not completely gone away. But replacing the valve covers greatly reduced it. It is clear that we still need to observe, but so far I am very pleased with the effect.

Vladimir,

Thanks for posting your findings. I recal I ran into some info about the 3.0l Diesel valve cover where there was either a missing or broken baffle. I seem to recall that he Diesel may have had a supervised part number, but I did not focus to heavily on the info I ran across as I do not have the Diesel. I will go back and see if I can locate what I was looking at. Seems what you have identfied might be somewhat similar to the Diesel valve cover?

Were the replacement valve covers much different?

Any sort of design change from your observation?

Curious if you are running a catch can or just a stock PCV configuration?

Also what oil weight are you using?

Seems with most DI gasoline engines these days there may be some oil film wash down in the cylinders, but also the lighter weight oils tend to also "cook off" much easier as well, probably leading to more oil being pulled into the PCV system.

 

[Vladimir2306]

Vladimir,

Thanks for posting your findings. I recal I ran into some info about the 3.0l Diesel valve cover where there was either a missing or broken baffle. I seem to recall that he Diesel may have had a supervised part number, but I did not focus to heavily on the info I ran across as I do not have the Diesel. I will go back and see if I can locate what I was looking at. Seems what you have identfied might be somewhat similar to the Diesel valve cover?

Were the replacement valve covers much different?

Any sort of design change from your observation?

Curious if you are running a catch can or just a stock PCV configuration?

Also what oil weight are you using?

Seems with most DI gasoline engines these days there may be some oil film wash down in the cylinders, but also the lighter weight oils tend to also "cook off" much easier as well, probably leading to more oil being pulled into the PCV system.

I did not check the compatibility of the covers of the diesel engine, and the covers from the gasoline engine. But it seems that 5.3 and 6.2 they are the same. No, the only difference is that the separator on the new covers is glued without an elevator. I do not use any additives, the standard oil is 0w20 dexos tolerance, and I change it according to the regulations.

 

[jfoj]

The Diesel valve cover is totally different, I just found some info where the baffles in the Diesel valve covers had some issues and seemed to contribute to more oil consumption until replaced, I think?? with and updated part number. Only seen a few things about this

I do realize sometimes part numbers are not updated, but there may be a revised change in the assembly process, something like you have identified.