Oil catch can options

[Just Fishing]

the main thing to focus on is the primary side for a catch can.
the side that goes from the driver side valve cover, and then right into the top of the intake.
I just snipped the plastic line and attached the extension for my catch can.

The other side is not a priority.

This is how i choose to do mine.
Mostly i had aluminum line left over from my vette project, and not enough silicone hose.
Too lazy to go to the store, this is how i ran it!



the red ends are the flex joints.
the long red line at the bottom of the fuse box is the flex joint for the can side.

The bits of red hose in the middle serve as an isolator, purely there to keep the hard lines from rubbing together, and against other hard objects.

the silicone hose was also left over from my vette project.
It's color scheme is red and silver...

 

[Just Fishing]

I cleaned out the TB when I removed it and bought a new breather hose. I'll also try to take pictures of the intake tube where I see the oil residue just so everyone and see what I'm seeing.

careful cleaning out the throttle body, if you move that butterfly you mess with the IAC function.
The engine will idle funny/high until it relearns.
If you have a tech 2, you can do a quick relearn.
otherwise it's a few drive cycles.

 

[Drok]

Dont have anything to say that hasnt been said so heres a pic of my setup haha



@iamdub what can do you have ? It kinda looks like mine but I completely forgot what one mine is I lve had it for way too long and its been swapped from my 05 tahoe to this one a few years back

 

[iamdub]

Dont have anything to say that hasnt been said so heres a pic of my setup haha

View attachment 270025

@iamdub what can do you have ? It kinda looks like mine but I completely forgot what one mine is I lve had it for way too long and its been swapped from my 05 tahoe to this one a few years back

Yours and mine are the catchcans.com one. I put a 1/4-turn valve ($5ish at Harbor Freight) in the bottom of mine to make draining easier and mess-free. I also added a stainless steel scrub pad to it to improve the can's efficiency. I saw recently that some of the cans on Amazon are coming with a scrub pad.

It's a $100+ can, but I bought it back around 2011 in a group purchase before they were so popular. IMO, the $15-$20 ones on Amazon work just as well, they just have less capacity and don't have the fancy mounting bracket. I just checked my build thread. Apparently, I loaded the pics of the scrub pad through Photobucket, so they're all dead links now.

 

[Drok]

Yours and mine are the catchcans.com one. I put a 1/4-turn valve ($5ish at Harbor Freight) in the bottom of mine to make draining easier and mess-free. I also added a stainless steel scrub pad to it to improve the can's efficiency. I saw recently that some of the cans on Amazon are coming with a scrub pad.

It's a $100+ can, but I bought it back around 2011 in a group purchase before they were so popular. IMO, the $15-$20 ones on Amazon work just as well, they just have less capacity and don't have the fancy mounting bracket. I just checked my build thread. Apparently, I loaded the pics of the scrub pad through Photobucket, so they're all dead links now.

Ha, yeah that one. I bought this one probably close to that time frame also. Ill have to look up that 1/4 turn part and scrub pads. Thanks

 

[HACK BLOCK]

ok so when attaching the lines to the pcv do I cut that hard line and attach a hoes to it or if I completely remove the line there will be a nipple to attach to?

 

[HACK BLOCK]

I cleaned out the TB when I removed it and bought a new breather hose. I'll also try to take pictures of the intake tube where I see the oil residue just so everyone and see what I'm seeing.

the pics are mixed up but u can see the breather hose nipple with oil on it. I tried to take a couple of pictures of inside the breather tube, and I took a picture of inside the intake tube with some residue

 

[iamdub]

ok so when attaching the lines to the pcv do I cut that hard line and attach a hoes to it or if I completely remove the line there will be a nipple to attach to?

It really doesn't matter. All you need is an airtight path between all the nipples, whether it be soft hose, hard line, copper or aluminum tubing, etc. Some cut the factory hard line and slip them inside the rubber hoses and some remove the factory line altogether and slip the rubber hoses over the nipples. There's a steel nipple on the rocker cover- that one's easy. The nipple on the intake manifold is plastic and, therefore, BRITTLE. Do NOT bend it in any direction or it'll snap like a pretzel stick. I used a razor knife to slice the factory hose and peel it off this nipple. Then I smeared a tiny bit of oil on it and pushed the new rubber hose onto it, supporting the fitting from the back side and pushing only straight on the hose. Obviously, it's safer to cut the factory hard line. But, you still must be careful to not tug on the half that goes to the manifold when connecting your catch can hoses to it.

 

[iamdub]

Ha, yeah that one. I bought this one probably close to that time frame also. Ill have to look up that 1/4 turn part and scrub pads. Thanks

Found this in my thread:

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-19#post-1317412


The valve I got was from Lowe's and was $8. I recall finding the exact same one at Harbor Freight for a few bucks less. It's way better than having to twist that crappy T-handle while oil is pouring out.

 

[Drok]

Found this in my thread:

https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/growing-up-doesnt-have-to-suck.93510/page-19#post-1317412


The valve I got was from Lowe's and was $8. I recall finding the exact same one at Harbor Freight for a few bucks less. It's way better than having to twist that crappy T-handle while oil is pouring out.

yeah it wold be especially since i put mine back by the firewall haha