donjetman
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2018
- Posts
- 1,540
- Reaction score
- 2,734
Here's what my sparkies looked like before I installed the updated valve cover, catch can, etc 
Oil Drip from PCV/Intake issue? Anyone experienced this?
- Thread starter MLRTYME
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
Yep and worse for mine before we did the whole 9 yards in the TSB. My catch can now has about a teaspoon in it every 1K or so. Very satisfying when I empty it.
donjetman
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2018
- Posts
- 1,540
- Reaction score
- 2,734
Yep, it ran fine, no missing or codes. I cleaned them in my media blast cabinet, put them back in.
They're still in the engine and running fine w/no codes 40k miles later(170k total). I get 2 oz from my catch can every 10k miles
alpha_omega
Full Access Member
That’s bananas. After taking a photo I would have fed them to the dumpster. We’re going to have add some character to your “call sign” (donjetman-iac).
*Thanks for the porous block detail, do you recall the TSB number for this little GeM?
Having just rebuilt your engine it will have some “break-in” time where things might flex ever so slightly with the expansion of the different metals, especially at different temps for different lengths of time.
mid you haven’t done so already, you might consider going back through and rechecking the torque specs on some of the other hardware.
Did you use the old fasteners or get new stuff (any ARP?), any thread lock or anti-seize used - I’m not talking about the valve cover, just throwing ideas against the wall in case any stick or give the other heroes ideas to share.
rcmetrology
TYF Newbie
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2015
- Posts
- 2
- Reaction score
- 3
Any update on this catch can level after some notable time. My 2007 Yukon Denali is doing the same thing. Went from leaking a quart a month to a quart a week suddenly. Getting the updated valve cover tomorrow. Have already installed a new oil pressure sensor as it stopped working. A few months ago I removed the driver side valve cover gasket to make sure the PCV Valve (hole) in the valve cover was not plugged and limiting available vacuum in the crankcase, making the engine have positive pressure and causing oil to be pushed from the rear main or thru a porous rear cover. I cleaned it all up and ran some safety wire thru the orifice to make sure it was clear. I did notice the driver side VC had some oil on it so sprayed it down with some brakeclean and well see what shows up. I checked all of the bolts and they were still properly torqued, but I could see oil at the back outside corner of the VC.
donjetman
Full Access Member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2018
- Posts
- 1,540
- Reaction score
- 2,734
I did the rear main seal, valve cover, catch can, etc 3+ yrs and 40k miles ago. No regrets. It's still dry as a bone
Rear Main Seal job, Pan, etc - 07 Yukon Denali 6.2
I'm a DIYer and have my own lift at home. Day 1 I'm starting the process of changing the rear main seal. While I'm at it I'm gonna: 1) Replace the trans fluid and filter, 2) Install oil pan gasket 3) Replace a leaky trans cooler line, mine has an external cooler, 4) new starter, 5) new...
www.tahoeyukonforum.com
Hey y'all, I'm new to the Yukon experience. This is the first time I've read about the valve cover issue. I planned to remove the valve covers to redo the gaskets but now I'm going to replace them because of what I read here. Just a quick question, does anyone know if these would eliminate that issue altogether with the old design?
swperformanceparts.com
GM LS Cast Aluminum Valve Covers with Coil Mounts Chevy Small Block V8 293 325 346 364 376 427, Black
These cast aluminum valve covers are a great way to improve the look of your LS engine, without any radical changes to its configuration. The cover has an increased height to allow for added valvetrain clearance and features studs for mounting LS coils with 72mm bolt spacing. It also features a...
swperformanceparts.com
iamdub
Full Access Member
Hey y'all, I'm new to the Yukon experience. This is the first time I've read about the valve cover issue. I planned to remove the valve covers to redo the gaskets but now I'm going to replace them because of what I read here. Just a quick question, does anyone know if these would eliminate that issue altogether with the old design?
GM LS Cast Aluminum Valve Covers with Coil Mounts Chevy Small Block V8 293 325 346 364 376 427, Black
These cast aluminum valve covers are a great way to improve the look of your LS engine, without any radical changes to its configuration. The cover has an increased height to allow for added valvetrain clearance and features studs for mounting LS coils with 72mm bolt spacing. It also features a...
I couldn't get a large pic of this. But, on their site, if you mouse over this thumbnail, you'll see that the hole in the PCV baffle is in the same location as the OLD style of the stock valve cover that was updated. So, you'd be spending quite a load to not solve anything and likely only make things more difficult for you as these covers would put the coils that much closer to the firewall/cowl, if not digging into the insulation.
Just get the updated cover, new gaskets and a catch can if you haven't yet.
Old (1) vs. updated (2) stock covers:
