Oil Drip from PCV/Intake issue? Anyone experienced this?

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Foggy

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 25, 2019
Posts
1,106
Reaction score
1,425
Location
KS
Holy Crap.... Amazing it even ran with those
 

donjetman

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Posts
1,560
Reaction score
2,775
Holy Crap.... Amazing it even ran with those
Yep, it ran fine, no missing or codes. I cleaned them in my media blast cabinet, put them back in.

They're still in the engine and running fine w/no codes 40k miles later(170k total). I get 2 oz from my catch can every 10k miles
 

alpha_omega

Full Access Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2017
Posts
704
Reaction score
1,347
Location
Michigan
Yep, it ran fine, no missing or codes. I cleaned them in my media blast cabinet, put them back in.

They're still in the engine and running fine w/no codes 40k miles later(170k total). I get 2 oz from my catch can every 10k miles
That’s bananas. After taking a photo I would have fed them to the dumpster. We’re going to have add some character to your “call sign” (donjetman-iac).
*Thanks for the porous block detail, do you recall the TSB number for this little GeM?

1- Pulling the valve cover showed the previous design valve cover was in place. Replacing with the newer design is something I hope will help this situation.
2- When pulling the old valve cover, I discovered the rear-most bolt was not torqued to the same spec as the other 3. Weird, as I mark each of my bolts when finished torque patterns to spec, but I can confirm it was less than 1/2 the torque needed to remove the bolt in comparison to the others. I feel confident much of my leak was being generated from there, but just in a location on the back of the head/block that I could not see before.
3- I have just under 500 miles after the VC change and proper torque of the valve cover. I do not see any of the oil drip that existed before.


Having just rebuilt your engine it will have some “break-in” time where things might flex ever so slightly with the expansion of the different metals, especially at different temps for different lengths of time.
mid you haven’t done so already, you might consider going back through and rechecking the torque specs on some of the other hardware.
Did you use the old fasteners or get new stuff (any ARP?), any thread lock or anti-seize used - I’m not talking about the valve cover, just throwing ideas against the wall in case any stick or give the other heroes ideas to share.
 

rcmetrology

TYF Newbie
Joined
Dec 6, 2015
Posts
2
Reaction score
3
Any update on this catch can level after some notable time. My 2007 Yukon Denali is doing the same thing. Went from leaking a quart a month to a quart a week suddenly. Getting the updated valve cover tomorrow. Have already installed a new oil pressure sensor as it stopped working. A few months ago I removed the driver side valve cover gasket to make sure the PCV Valve (hole) in the valve cover was not plugged and limiting available vacuum in the crankcase, making the engine have positive pressure and causing oil to be pushed from the rear main or thru a porous rear cover. I cleaned it all up and ran some safety wire thru the orifice to make sure it was clear. I did notice the driver side VC had some oil on it so sprayed it down with some brakeclean and well see what shows up. I checked all of the bolts and they were still properly torqued, but I could see oil at the back outside corner of the VC.
 

donjetman

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2018
Posts
1,560
Reaction score
2,775
Any update on this catch can level after some notable time. My 2007 Yukon Denali is doing the same thing. Went from leaking a quart a month to a quart a week suddenly. Getting the updated valve cover tomorrow.
I did the rear main seal, valve cover, catch can, etc 3+ yrs and 40k miles ago. No regrets. It's still dry as a bone :)
 

AmunRoo

Member
Joined
Dec 27, 2021
Posts
66
Reaction score
82
Location
Chicago
Hey y'all, I'm new to the Yukon experience. This is the first time I've read about the valve cover issue. I planned to remove the valve covers to redo the gaskets but now I'm going to replace them because of what I read here. Just a quick question, does anyone know if these would eliminate that issue altogether with the old design?

 

iamdub

Full Access Member
Joined
Apr 23, 2016
Posts
20,821
Reaction score
44,950
Location
Li'l Weezyana
Hey y'all, I'm new to the Yukon experience. This is the first time I've read about the valve cover issue. I planned to remove the valve covers to redo the gaskets but now I'm going to replace them because of what I read here. Just a quick question, does anyone know if these would eliminate that issue altogether with the old design?



66-100x100.jpg.webp


I couldn't get a large pic of this. But, on their site, if you mouse over this thumbnail, you'll see that the hole in the PCV baffle is in the same location as the OLD style of the stock valve cover that was updated. So, you'd be spending quite a load to not solve anything and likely only make things more difficult for you as these covers would put the coils that much closer to the firewall/cowl, if not digging into the insulation.

Just get the updated cover, new gaskets and a catch can if you haven't yet.


Old (1) vs. updated (2) stock covers:

1642808183919.jpeg
 

Forum statistics

Threads
132,730
Posts
1,873,299
Members
97,559
Latest member
blanchard7684

Latest posts

Top