Oil pan gasket and pickup tube seal replacement

[Matthew Jeschke]

My guess would be the oil sensor. I think i had same problem way back when on my camaro. Actually felt it would be hard to mess up the job... but interestingly was way easier on the camaro.

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[JonnyTahoe]

I did not use any sealant or read any service manual. I went with a FEL-PRO oil pan gasket P/N 30693R. Its made from a Premium Patented material bonded to aluminum. The instructions that came with the gasket said gasket was Self Sealing and did not require any additional Sealant. It looked very well designed to me and if FEL-PRO ''The Gaskets Professionals Trust'' says no sealant required I'm believing that to be true. I have a Rear Main leak (292,000) mi so probably going to drop the pan again this spring.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

Well if you go by the service manual (I use Alldatadiy.com) it tells you to apply a specific sealant at each of the 4 corners where there is a gap from where the front and rear main covers interface with the block. It's a safe bet to follow the service manual for this step. Especially if you see the gaps they are referring to.


From the service manual:

1. Apply a 5 mm (0.20 inch) bead of sealant GM P/N 12378190, or equivalent 20 mm (0.80 inch) long to the engine block. Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the front cover gasket that protrudes into the oil pan surface.

1. Apply a 5 mm (0.20 inch) bead of sealant GM P/N 12378190, or equivalent 20 mm (0.8 inch) long to the engine block. Apply the sealant directly onto the tabs of the rear cover gasket that protrudes into the oil pan surface.

Here is the equivalent Permatex sealant according to the cross-reference sheet below. Not sure exactly what it is ...but it seems to be more like pipe thread sealant...the stuff you find on sensor threads and such. A bit like pipe dope and a bit like lock-tite. Not sure why they call for this. I used Permatex ultra black RTV gasket maker. It is oil and fuel resistant. Take your pick....but I would use something.


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Good info Matt. That is great information and certainly can't hurt to add something to those corners of the pan. Few members have discussed how they held the new gasket in place while installing the pan with the new gasket. I used a method that another member suggested using zip ties but I used one in each corner and ended up spending a lot of time trying to remove them after I put the pan in place. maybe the rivet method would of been better.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

Curious do you know torque specs for sump plate cover in pan?

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[Fless]

Curious do you know torque specs for sump plate cover in pan?

If that is also called the oil pan baffle, Haynes has those bolts at 106 INCH-pounds.

 

[Matahoe]

Good info Matt. That is great information and certainly can't hurt to add something to those corners of the pan. Few members have discussed how they held the new gasket in place while installing the pan with the new gasket. I used a method that another member suggested using zip ties but I used one in each corner and ended up spending a lot of time trying to remove them after I put the pan in place. maybe the rivet method would of been better.

You don't need anything in those rivet holes anymore to keep the gasket from moving around. The new gasket (as shown above) grips the bolts a tiny bit and holds them in place while lifting up the pan.

 

[Matthew Jeschke]

If that is also called the oil pan baffle, Haynes has those bolts at 106 INCH-pounds.

Does it require any locktite? I may put a little blue on it but curious if that would just melt off in oil.

 

[JonnyTahoe]

Curious do you know torque specs for sump plate cover in pan? I just tightened them up till they ''felt right''. Those hold a tin baffle tray in place you could snug them up with a pliers and they would never loosen up.

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[JonnyTahoe]

Curious do you know torque specs for sump plate cover in pan?

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[Matthew Jeschke]

I did not use any sealant or read any service manual. I went with a FEL-PRO oil pan gasket P/N 30693R. Its made from a Premium Patented material bonded to aluminum. The instructions that came with the gasket said gasket was Self Sealing and did not require any additional Sealant. It looked very well designed to me and if FEL-PRO ''The Gaskets Professionals Trust'' says no sealant required I'm believing that to be true. I have a Rear Main leak (292,000) mi so probably going to drop the pan again this spring.

On this motor I believe you have to drop the transmission and a plate comes off above the pan for the rear main seal. From what I recall my old LT1 was a bit different (easier) but that was 15 years ago lol I this stuff is like once in a decade work for me.